Five Centuries of American Costume

by Wilcox, R. Turner

• ISBN13: 9780486436104
• ISBN10: 0486436101
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2011-11-10
• Publisher: Dover Publications

Summary

Profusely illustrated study focuses on the evolution of clothing styles--from animal hides worn in the 9th century to suits for both sexes in the mid-20th century. Depictions of everyday wear of Vikings, Mayans, Aztecs, Incas, and principal North American Indian tribes, plus the varied costumes of the Spanish, Portuguese, English, French, German, and Scandinavians who settled on the American continents. Military uniforms from the 16th to the mid-20th century are portrayed, as is civilian dress of the same period for men, women, and children. 404 black-and-white illustrations.

Table of Contents

The Earliest Settlers in America	1	(27)
Vikings
Eskimos
The Coming of the White Men
The Mayan Civilization
The Aztec Civilization
The Inca Civilization
The North American Indians
17 Plates	11	(17)
Military---1492 to 1700	28	(13)
Ancient Armies
Medieval Period
Liveries and Armor
Passing of Armor, Crossbow and Arrow
Uniform in France
Spain of the 16th Century
Lansquenets
The Thirty Years War
Buffcoat
British Develop an Army Uniform
Scarlet Cloth
Helmet and Iron Skullcap
Cocked Hat
Grenadier Cap
Soldiers' Hair and Wigs
Boots
Jack Leather
Sailor
Marine
New Amsterdam
7 Plates	34	(7)
Military---18th Century	41	(16)
European Standing Armies
Colors
Epaulettes
French Regiments
Prussian Influence
European Mercenaries into Militia
English Militia
American Militia of Farmers and Woodsmen
Hunting Dress Uniform
Indian Moccasin
The Rifle
Lack of Uniform Cloth
The Cockade
The Continental Army
Problems of the Uniform
Cocked Hat
Tricorne
Jockey Cap
Hungarian Shako
Wigs
Natural Hair in Mid-Century
Sailor
British Marine Dress
U.S. Uniform in 1798
Green for the Marine Corps
Basic Blue for Dress and Parade
8 Plates	49	(8)
Military---19th Century	57	(22)
Brilliant Color in Uniform Discarded
Hair and Whiskers Shortened
New Marine Uniform
Changes in Dress
West Point Adopts Gray
Seamen
War with Mexico
Campaign Uniform Blue and Gray
Chevrons in 1847
Dark Blue Frock Coat in 1850's
The Civil War
North American Confederate
Machine-made Shoes
The Sewing Machine and Uniforms
White Cork Helmet
Khaki First Used by the British
Spanish-American War
Stable Dress of the Rough Riders
Campaign Hat
Puttees, a British First
18 Plates	61	(18)
Military---20th Century	79	(25)
Khaki, U.S. Army, 1902
New British Features in World War I
The Overseas Cap and the Return of the Helmet
World War II
New Uniform Color
Eisenhower Jacket
Changes of 1960
Permanent Trouser Crease
The Service Cap
Camouflage and the Jungle Suit
Boots
U.S. Dress Manual, Navy, 1959
Traditional Sailor Garb Retained
Aiguillettes
Fourragere
Women in Service
New Invention in Soldiers' Service Dress
Armor in the Korean War
The Air Force
Trips into Outer Space
18 Plates	86	(18)
The Colonists---16th and 17th Centuries	104	(22)
The Settlers
Spanish
Portuguese
French
Dutch
New Amsterdam
Beaver
English in Virginia, Delaware and the Carolinas
Tobacco
The Huguenots in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, the Carolinas and Virginia
English Settlers of New England
Pilgrim Fathers
Puritans
Quakers
Swedish on the Delaware
Germans in Pennsylvania
German, Swiss and Scotch-Irish Trekked Southward by Way of Philadelphia
Regional Dress
The Frontiersman
Muffs
Cloaks
The Change of Men's Dress to Modern Form
13 Plates	113	(13)
Civil Dress---18th Century	126	(11)
Fashion Babies
English Fashions
French Fashions
The Hairdo
Masks
Caps and Bonnets
Brides
Wigs
Cocked Hat
Hatmaking
Banyan
Footwear
The American Cobbler
Woodsman's Shoe-pak
Workman's Clothes
Washington's Inauguration Dress
Simple Fashions Precede the French Revolution
5 Plates	132	(5)
Civil Dress---19th Century	137	(19)
The Country Spreads West
Discovery of Gold
French and English Fashions
Feminine Underwear
Roman Sandals
Spencer
Cloaks
Shawl
Hairdo
Turbans
London Sets the Tone for Men
Beau Brummell
Bathing
Frock Hat
Cravat
American Collars and Shirts
American Paper Patterns
Garibaldi Shirt
Sewing Machine
Machine to Factory
Thirties
Silk Top Hat
Growth of Manufacturing
Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve
Pantalets and Mrs. Bloomer
Petticoat into Crinoline
Steel Hoops
Bustle
Bonnets and Caps
Hairdo
Mantles
Footwear
Silk Petticoats
Basque Bodice
Mourning
Aprons
Frock Coat
Sack Coat
Tuxedo
Box Coat
Top Hat of Polished Silk Beaver
Derby
Boater
Country Clothes
Norfolk Suit
Sports
Cowboy
Sea Bathing
Feminine Tailored Suit
Gibson Girl and Man
Wasp Waist
Princess Gown
Feminine Underwear
Marcel Wave
Bathing
The Coming of the Bathroom
Crease in Trousers
Trouser Cuffs
8 Plates	148	(8)
Civil Dress---20th Century	156	(27)
Men 1900 to 1910
The American Way of Life
London the Arbiter of Men's Dress
Peg-top Trousers
Polo Coat
Norfolk Suit
Motoring Dress
Broad Shoulders
Polo Shirt
Masculine Underwear
Women 1900 to 1910
Straight Front Corset
Rainy Day Skirt
Gibson Girl
Kimono Sleeve - Empire Mode
Hobble Skirt
Hairdo
Permanent Wave
Bobbed Hair
Picture Hats
Motorcar Dress
Footwear
Lingerie
Bathing Suit
Men 1910 to 1920
World War I
Effect of Italian Military Silhouette
Women 1910 to 1920
Paris Sets the Fashion
Paul Poiret and the Natural Figure
Harem Skirt
Robe de Style
Short Chemise Frock
Jersey Cloth
American Synthetic Fabrics
Boyish Form or Debutante Slouch
Lingerie
End of Brown and Black Stockings
Blond Hosiery
Stockings with Bathing Suits
Men 1920 to 1930
Change in Silhouette
Oxford Bags
Plus Fours
Synthetic Fabrics
Raccoon Coats
Slouch Hat
Women 1920 to 1930
The Flapper
Boyish Form
The Ensemble
Knitted One-piece Suit
Cloche
Hairdo
Cosmetics
Suntan
Nail Polish
Men 1930 to 1940
Change in Silhouette
Gaucho Sport Shirt
Masculine Underwear
Footwear
Swim Trunks
Women 1930 to 1940
Costume for Every Event
Mae West's Curves
Lastex
Slide Fastener
Halter Neck
Bare Midriff
Cotton
Dirndl Skirt
Shocking Pink
Square Shoulders
Doll Hats
Hatlessness
Hairdo
Footwear
Steel Spike Heel
Nylons
Fake Jewelry
Play Clothes
One-piece Swim Suit
Men 1940 to 1950
World War II
Scarcities
Topcoats
Sports Shirts
Scarves
Homburg
Flat Cap
Loafer Shoes
Polo Boot
Women 1940 to 1950
Fabrics
New Look 1947
Change in Silhouette
Christian Dior
Femininity Again
Cocktail Dress
Little Hats and No Hats
Footwear
Bikini
Men 1950 to 1960
Gray and Black Period
Change in Silhouette
Ivy League
Continental
New Synthetic Fabrics
Wash-and-Wear
Topcoats
Raincoats
Evening Wear
College Fashions
Shorts and Slacks
Outer Shirts
The Hatless Male
New Hats
Reshaped Scarfs and Footwear
Women 1950 to 1960
From Housedress to Shorts and Slacks
Blue Jeans or Levis
Golf and Tennis
Shirtdress
Dirndl Skirt
Chemise or Sack
Chanel Suit
Culottes of Norman Norell
Frankly Fake Furs
Hats
Mainbocher's Sweaters
Hairdo and Color
Cosmetics
6 Plates	177	(6)
Children---16th to 20th Centuries	183	(10)
16th and 17th Centuries
Children of the Renaissance
Linen Chemise
The Gertrude
Dress-up Clothes
Coif
Doublet and Stomacher
Boys in Dresses
Pinafore
Swaddling Bands
Hanging Sleeves
Scarlet, the Favored Color
18th Century
English Children First into Comfortable Dress
Writers of the Age of Reason
Jean Jacques Rousseau
Little Girls' Muslin Frock
Swaddling Clothes
Christening Dress
Yellow, the Traditional Christening Color
19th Century
Empire Fashion
Kate Greenaway
Playclothes
Boys in Pantaloons Hair Cropped
End of Child's Corset
False Pantalets
Drawers for Girls and Women by 1830's
Pantalets Below Skirt to 1858
Caps and Hats
Cloaks
The 1820's Fussiness in Dress to 1910
Boys ``Breeched'' at Four
Sailor Suit
Caps, Hats, and the Topper
Older Boys in Trousers
Vogue of Historical Dress in the 1830's
Scottish Kilt and Marine Suit in America
Trousers, Pantaloons, and Pantalets
Aprons
Wire Hoops
Bustle in the 1860's
Frilled Drawers
Stockings
Footwear
Hairdo
Basque Bodice
Footwear
Small Boy Sometimes in Skirts to Six
Baby's Trousseau
The ``Biggin''
Christening Robe
Little Lord Fauntleroy
Kate Greenaway Fashions
Sailor Suit for Boys and Girls
Pinafore
Stages of a Girl's Growing-up
20th Century
1900 to 1920
Change in Baby's Dress
Rompers
Child Fashions
Bloomers
Long Stockings
Footwear
Hats like Grown-ups'
Hairdo
The Dutch Cut
Boys' Sailor Suit
Buster Brown Tunic
Norfolk Suit
Trousers for Teenage Boys
1920 to 1930
Aftermath of War Knitting, Sweaters and Caps
Shorter Skirts and Trousers
Short Hair
Beret, Cloche and Tam
Socks and ``Bobby-soxers''
1930 to 1940
Simple Tailored Clothes
The Chanel Suit
Norfolk Eton Suit
Play and Sports Clothes
1940 to 1960
School and Sports Clothes
Casual Clothes
The Chanel Suit
Tweeds for Boys
All-around Coats, Water Repellent
Removable Linings
Fur-like Collars and Linings
Blue Jeans for Boys and Girls
The Muu-Muu
The American Indian Cradleboard Revived
7 Plates	193