Introducing | |
Peru highlights | p. 2 |
A foot in the door | p. 9 |
Essentials | |
Planning your trip | p. 18 |
Before you travel | p. 34 |
Money | p. 38 |
Getting there | p. 41 |
Touching down | p. 45 |
Getting around | p. 52 |
Sleeping | p. 61 |
Eating | p. 63 |
Entertainment | p. 66 |
Festivals and events | p. 66 |
Shopping | p. 67 |
Sport and activities | p. 69 |
Health | p. 77 |
Keeping in touch | p. 84 |
Guide | |
Lima | |
Ins and outs | p. 90 |
Background | p. 93 |
Sights | p. 95 |
Central Lima | p. 95 |
Lima Suburbs | p. 105 |
Excursions | p. 112 |
Listings | p. 114 |
Sleeping | p. 114 |
Eating | p. 121 |
Bars and clubs | p. 125 |
Entertainment | p. 127 |
Festivals and events | p. 127 |
Shopping | p. 128 |
Activities and tours | p. 131 |
Transport | p. 134 |
Directory | p. 137 |
Cusco | |
Cusco city | p. 146 |
Sights | p. 150 |
Listings | p. 156 |
The Urubamba Valley | p. 185 |
Pisac | p. 186 |
Pisac to Urumbamba | p. 187 |
Urubamba, Chinchero and Moray | p. 189 |
Ollantaytambo | p. 191 |
Listings | p. 192 |
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail | p. 198 |
Machu Picchu ruins | p. 199 |
Huayna Picchu | p. 201 |
The Inca Trail | p. 202 |
Beyond Machu Picchu | p. 206 |
Listings | p. 210 |
East of Cusco | p. 217 |
Listings | p. 220 |
West from Cusco | p. 222 |
Listings | p. 224 |
Lake Titicaca | |
Puno and the islands | p. 228 |
Puno | p. 229 |
Around Puno | p. 230 |
The islands | p. 232 |
Listings | p. 235 |
Juliaca and the eastern shore | p. 242 |
Listings | p. 246 |
The western shore and into Bolivia | p. 248 |
Listings | p. 250 |
Arequipa | |
Arequipa | p. 256 |
Listings | p. 260 |
Colca Canyon | p. 270 |
Listings | p. 275 |
Cotahuasi Canyon | p. 277 |
Listings | p. 281 |
South Coast | |
Lima to Pisco | p. 286 |
South to Lunahuana | p. 286 |
Lunahuana | p. 286 |
Canete Valley | p. 287 |
Chincha Alta | p. 288 |
Pisco | p. 289 |
Paracas Peninsula and Ballestas Islands | p. 289 |
Inland from Pisco | p. 291 |
Listings | p. 292 |
Ica and around | p. 298 |
Listings | p. 300 |
Nasca and around | p. 302 |
Nasca | p. 302 |
Nasca Lines | p. 303 |
Around Nasca | p. 306 |
Nasca to Cusco | p. 307 |
Listings | p. 307 |
Nasca to Chile | p. 311 |
South of Nasca | p. 311 |
Mollendo | p. 312 |
Moquegua | p. 313 |
Around Moquegua | p. 314 |
Tacna | p. 315 |
Border with Chile | p. 317 |
Listings | p. 317 |
Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash | |
Ins and outs | p. 324 |
Background | p. 324 |
Trekking and climbing | p. 325 |
Huaraz | p. 329 |
Listings | p. 333 |
North from Huaraz | p. 340 |
Huaraz to Carhuaz | p. 341 |
Carhuaz | p. 341 |
Treks from Carhuaz | p. 342 |
Yungay and around | p. 343 |
Lagunas de Llanganuco | p. 344 |
Caraz and around | p. 344 |
Treks from Caraz | p. 346 |
Listings | p. 348 |
East of the Cordillera Blanca | p. 353 |
Huaraz to Chavin | p. 353 |
Chavin de Huantar | p. 356 |
Callejon de Conchucos | p. 357 |
Chacas to Pomabamba | p. 358 |
Pomabamba | p. 359 |
Sihuas and beyond | p. 360 |
Listings | p. 360 |
Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura | p. 363 |
Listings | p. 365 |
North Coast | |
Lima to Chimbote | p. 370 |
Listings | p. 377 |
Trujillo | p. 380 |
Listings | p. 384 |
Around Trujillo | p. 390 |
Listings | p. 396 |
Chiclayo and around | p. 399 |
Listings | p. 408 |
Piura and around | p. 413 |
Piura | p. 414 |
Huancabamba and Las Guaringas | p. 416 |
Sullana to Ecuador | p. 417 |
Listings | p. 418 |
Coastal route to Ecuador | p. 422 |
Talara and around | p. 422 |
Mancora and around | p. 423 |
North of Mancora | p. 423 |
Tumbes | p. 424 |
Around Tumbes | p. 425 |
Listings | p. 427 |
Northern Highlands | |
The coast to Cajamarca | p. 436 |
Listings | p. 439 |
Cajamarca and around | p. 441 |
Listings | p. 446 |
Chachapoyas Region | p. 451 |
Cajamarca to Chachapoyas | p. 453 |
Chachapoyas and around | p. 454 |
Kuelap and Tingo | p. 456 |
Sites between Tingo and Leymebamba | p. 457 |
Northwest of Chachapoyas | p. 460 |
East and north of Chachapoyas | p. 463 |
Listings | p. 464 |
Central Highlands | |
Lima to Jauja | p. 482 |
Listings | p. 483 |
Huancayo and Huancavelica | p. 484 |
Listings | p. 487 |
Ayacucho and its hinterland | p. 492 |
Ayacucho | p. 493 |
Around Ayacucho | p. 495 |
Ayacucho to Cusco | p. 497 |
Listings | p. 499 |
East of La Oroya and La Selva Central | p. 505 |
Listings | p. 508 |
North of La Oroya and the Huallaga Valley | p. 513 |
Listings | p. 518 |
Amazon Basin | |
Northern Jungle | p. 524 |
Tingo Maria to Iquitos | p. 524 |
Iquitos | p. 528 |
Iquitos to the Brazilian/Colombian border | p. 532 |
Listings | p. 533 |
Southern Jungle | p. 544 |
Manu Biosphere Reserve | p. 545 |
To Manu from Cusco | p. 547 |
Puerto Maldonado | p. 549 |
Tambopata Nature Reserve (TNR) | p. 551 |
To Iberia to Inapari | p. 552 |
Listings | p. 552 |
Background | |
History | p. 564 |
Pre-Columbian history | p. 564 |
Moche culture | p. 567 |
Inca Dynasty | p. 568 |
Conquest and after | p. 572 |
Post-independence Peru | p. 573 |
Political developments | p. 575 |
The 1968 coup | p. 576 |
Modern Peru | p. 577 |
Peru under Fujimori | p. 577 |
Constitution and government | p. 581 |
Economy | p. 581 |
Society | p. 582 |
Culture | p. 583 |
People | p. 583 |
Peru's indigenous people | p. 584 |
Religion | p. 588 |
Arts and crafts | p. 588 |
Music and dance | p. 592 |
Festivals | p. 595 |
Literature | p. 597 |
Fine art and sculpture | p. 601 |
Land and environment | p. 604 |
Geography | p. 604 |
Climate | p. 608 |
Flora and fauna | p. 608 |
Footnotes | |
Spanish words and phrases | p. 616 |
Glossary | p. 623 |
Index | p. 626 |
Map index | p. 630 |
Map symbols | p. 631 |
Advert index | p. 632 |
Acknowledgements | p. 633 |
Travellers' letters | p. 634 |
Credits | p. 636 |
About the author | p. 637 |
Complete listings | p. 638 |
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