List of Maps | p. vii |
What's New in Ireland | p. 1 |
The Best of Ireland | p. 4 |
The Best Picture-Postcard Towns | p. 4 |
The Best Natural Wonders | p. 5 |
The Best Castles | p. 8 |
The Best of Ancient Ireland | p. 9 |
Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins | p. 10 |
The Best Literary Spots | p. 11 |
The Best Gardens | p. 12 |
The Best Family Activities | p. 12 |
The Best Active Vacations | p. 13 |
The Best Luxury Accommodations | p. 13 |
The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations | p. 14 |
The Best Restaurants | p. 16 |
The Best Pubs | p. 17 |
The Best Websites | p. 17 |
Planning Your Trip to Ireland | p. 19 |
The Regions in Brief | p. 19 |
Visitor Information | p. 21 |
Entry Requirements & Customs | p. 22 |
Money | p. 24 |
What Things Cost in Ireland | p. 25 |
When to Go | p. 26 |
Ireland Calendar of Events | p. 27 |
Travel Insurance | p. 32 |
Health & Safety | p. 33 |
Specialized Travel Resources | p. 35 |
Planning Your Trip Online | p. 40 |
Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource | p. 41 |
The 21st-Century Traveler | p. 41 |
Online Traveler's Toolbox | p. 43 |
Getting There | p. 43 |
Getting Through the Airport | p. 45 |
Flying with Film & Video | p. 48 |
Packages for the Independent Traveler | p. 49 |
Ask Before You Go | p. 49 |
Escorted General-Interest Tours | p. 50 |
Special-Interest Trips | p. 50 |
Getting Around Ireland | p. 51 |
Money-Saving Rail & Bus Passes | p. 52 |
Road Rules in a Nutshell | p. 54 |
Tips on Accommodations | p. 58 |
Tips on Dining | p. 63 |
Tips for Digital Travel Photography | p. 64 |
Recommended Books, Films & Music | p. 65 |
Fast Facts: Ireland | p. 66 |
Suggested Ireland Itineraries | p. 72 |
The Best of Ireland in 1 Week | p. 73 |
The Best of Ireland in 2 Weeks | p. 75 |
The Best of Ireland for Families | p. 77 |
Discovering the North | p. 79 |
Exploring Ancient Ireland | p. 80 |
Ireland Outdoors | p. 83 |
Bicycling | p. 83 |
Walking | p. 85 |
Ireland's National Parks | p. 86 |
Bird-Watching | p. 88 |
Golf | p. 89 |
Horseback Riding | p. 90 |
Fishing | p. 91 |
Kayaking | p. 92 |
Sailing | p. 92 |
A Bit of Adventure | p. 93 |
Diving | p. 94 |
Windsurfing | p. 94 |
Dublin | p. 96 |
Orientation | p. 95 |
Dublin Neighborhoods in Brief | p. 101 |
Getting Around | p. 102 |
Fast Facts: Dublin | p. 106 |
Where to Stay | p. 108 |
Where to Dine | p. 122 |
How to Eat like an Irishman | p. 129 |
Seeing the Sights | p. 132 |
Dublin Pass | p. 135 |
The Tortured Tale of the Hugh Lane Gallery | p. 138 |
Hard to Love: Jonathan Swift | p. 139 |
Monumental Humor | p. 142 |
Family Favorites | p. 150 |
The Great Outdoors | p. 154 |
These Boots Are Made for Hiking | p. 155 |
Spectator Sports | p. 157 |
Shopping | p. 157 |
Going to Market | p. 161 |
Dublin After Dark | p. 152 |
Listen to the Music | p. 154 |
Staying Up Late | p. 165 |
Smaller Concert Venues | p. 170 |
Side Trips from Dublin | p. 171 |
Out from Dublin | p. 179 |
County Wicklow & County Carlow | p. 179 |
Russborough House: A Life of Crime | p. 185 |
County Kildare: Ireland's Horse Country | p. 195 |
St. Brigid: Early Feminist | p. 198 |
Counties Meath & Louth/The Boyne River Valley | p. 201 |
High Crosses | p. 208 |
The Southeast | p. 211 |
County Wexford | p. 211 |
A Trip through History: Exploring the Ring of Hook | p. 218 |
The Rising (and Falling) of Vinegar Hill | p. 220 |
County Waterford | p. 229 |
South Tipperary | p. 239 |
County Kilkenny | p. 248 |
Cork City | p. 262 |
Orientation | p. 264 |
Getting Around | p. 265 |
Fast Facts: Cork City | p. 266 |
Where to Stay | p. 266 |
Where to Dine | p. 269 |
Attractions | p. 271 |
The Gift of Gab | p. 273 |
Spectator Sports & Outdoor Pursuits | p. 274 |
Shopping | p. 274 |
Cork After Dark | p. 276 |
Brewing Up Loyalty | p. 275 |
Out from Cork | p. 279 |
Kinsale & South Cork | p. 279 |
East Cork | p. 287 |
West Cork | p. 291 |
Who Was Michael Collins? | p. 294 |
Southern Exposure: An Excursion to Cape Clear Island | p. 298 |
County Kerry | p. 307 |
The Iveragh Peninsula | p. 307 |
The Skellig Islands | p. 312 |
Killarney | p. 316 |
MacGillycuddy's Reeks | p. 324 |
The Dingle Peninsula | p. 330 |
You Say "Dingle," I Say "An Daingean" | p. 331 |
Up Close with Fungie | p. 337 |
Tralee | p. 340 |
Rose of Tralee | p. 343 |
Counties Limerick & Clare | p. 347 |
Limerick City & Environs | p. 347 |
There Once Was a Poet from Limerick | p. 350 |
Lower Shannon: The Lough Derg Drive | p. 359 |
County Clare | p. 366 |
Falling in Love with Love in Lisdoonvarna | p. 378 |
Irish Spelunking | p. 380 |
Galway City | p. 386 |
Souvenir Stories: The Claddagh Ring | p. 388 |
Orientation | p. 388 |
Where to Stay | p. 390 |
Where to Dine | p. 392 |
Attractions | p. 395 |
Spectator Sports & Outdoor Pursuits | p. 396 |
Shopping | p. 397 |
Galway City After Dark | p. 399 |
Side Trips from Galway City | p. 400 |
Out from Galway | p. 405 |
The Galway Bay Coast | p. 405 |
Connemara | p. 409 |
An Excursion to Inishbofin | p. 412 |
Lough Inagh & the Walk to Maum Ean Oratory | p. 415 |
Eastern Galway, Westmeath & Offaly | p. 421 |
Mayo, Sligo & the North Shannon Valley | p. 428 |
County Mayo | p. 428 |
A Trip to Clare Island | p. 433 |
Local Hero: Pirate Grace O'Malley | p. 435 |
Sligo & Yeats Country | p. 439 |
The North Shannon Valley: Roscommon, Leitrim & Cavan | p. 451 |
County Donegal | p. 457 |
Donegal Town | p. 457 |
The Donegal Bay Coast | p. 463 |
The Atlantic Highlands | p. 471 |
The Inishowen Peninsula | p. 478 |
Northern Ireland | p. 483 |
Northern Ireland Essentials | p. 487 |
Fast Facts: Northern Ireland | p. 489 |
Belfast | p. 490 |
Choosing Sides | p. 496 |
Side Trips from Belfast | p. 510 |
The Causeway Coast & the Glens of Antrim | p. 519 |
Going to the Birds: A Trip to Rathlin Island | p. 522 |
The Mourne Mountains | p. 527 |
Derry City | p. 534 |
The Apprentice Boys | p. 536 |
Climbing the Walls | p. 539 |
The Sperrin Mountains | p. 548 |
The Fermanagh Lakelands | p. 552 |
Ireland in Depth | p. 560 |
History 101 | p. 560 |
Dateline | p. 561 |
"An Bhfuil Gaeilge Agat?" ("Do You Speak Irish?") | p. 569 |
Ireland Today | p. 573 |
Index | p. 575 |
General Index | p. 575 |
Accommodations Index | p. 591 |
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