Growing Shrubs and Small Trees in Cold Climates

by Rose, Nancy

• ISBN13: 9780809224913
• ISBN10: 0809224917
• Edition: 1st
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2000-12-11
• Publisher: McGraw-Hill

Summary

An all-in-one guide designed for northern-tier gardens from coast to coast Growing Shrubs and Trees in Cold Climatesprovides northern-tier gardeners from coast to coast with an incredible range of choices, no matter what their skill level. Part I profiles 50 plant groups best suited to gardens in zones 1 to 5. Each plant has been tested for hardiness over a period of at least 10 years--and has proved hardy to no less than -30 degrees F. Readers will easily be able to select shrubs and trees that produce wonderful fragrant flowers and those that bloom more than once in the spring and summer seasons. Part 2 covers the basics of growing shrubs and small trees, with special attention on solving problems that occur in cooler climates.

Author Biography

Nancy Rose has an extensive background in growing shrubs and small trees in cold climates. Since 1990 she has worked in the woody plant research program at the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. Previously she worked with plant collections at the Morton Arboretum outside Chicago. A popular garden writer, she writes a column for the Star Tribune in Minneapolis-St. Paul and contributes articles to several magazines including Northern Gardener and American Nurseryman. Rose has earned degrees in horticulture from the University of Missouri and Ohio State University.

Don Selinger has more than 35 years in the nursery business in Illinois, Indiana, and Minnesota. Since 1973 he has worked for Bailey Nurseries in St. Paul, where he oversees the production of nursery stock distributed wholesale throughout the northern tier of the United States and Canada. Selinger has traveled widely in the United States, Canada, and Europe to seek out new plants for the nursery trade. He speaks frequently at state and national nursery association groups. Selinger received his degree in floriculture and ornamental horticulture from the University of Illinois.

John Whitman is a veteran gardener. He was a grower at Bachman's, the largest retail florist and nursery in the United States. A member of the Garden Writers Association of America, Whitman has written or been a contributing writer and photographer to numerous books and gardening magazines. Whitman is the coauthor of two other books in this series, Growing Perennials in Cold Climates (with Mike Heger) and Growing Roses in Cold Climates (with Jerry Olson).

Table of Contents

Foreword	vii
Acknowledgments	ix
Introduction	xi
Part I: The Most Popular Shrubs and Small Trees	1	(342)
Individual Listings	3	(340)
Abies	8	(5)
Acer	13	(7)
Amelanchier	20	(7)
Aronia	27	(5)
Berberis	32	(6)
Buxus	38	(5)
Caragana	43	(4)
Cercis	47	(5)
Chionanthus	52	(4)
Clethra	56	(5)
Cornus	61	(9)
Corylus	70	(6)
Cotinus	76	(5)
Cotoneaster	81	(6)
Daphne	87	(5)
Diervilla	92	(4)
Euonymus	96	(7)
Exochorda	103	(4)
Forsythia	107	(7)
Hamamelis	114	(6)
Hydrangea	120	(9)
Ilex	129	(6)
Juniperus	135	(8)
Lonicera	143	(7)
Magnolia	150	(7)
Malus	157	(12)
Microbiota	169	(4)
Paeonia	173	(11)
Perovskia	184	(5)
Philadelphus	189	(5)
Physocarpus	194	(5)
Picea	199	(6)
Pinus	205	(6)
Potentilla	211	(6)
Prunus	217	(9)
Pyrus	226	(8)
Rhododendron	234	(11)
Rhus	245	(8)
Ribes	253	(6)
Salix	259	(8)
Sorbus	267	(6)
Spiraea	273	(10)
Symphoricarpos	283	(6)
Syringa	289	(12)
Taxus	301	(5)
Thuja	306	(6)
Vaccinium	312	(9)
Viburnum	321	(10)
Weigela	331	(7)
Wisteria	338	(5)
Part II: The Basics of Growing Shrubs and Small Trees	343	(78)
Selecting Shrubs and Small Trees	345	(10)
How Shrubs and Small Trees Grow	345	(1)
Buying Shrubs and Small Trees	346	(2)
Designing with Shrubs	348	(4)
Potential Uses	352	(2)
Basic Design Tips	354	(1)
Selecting and Preparing a Site	355	(2)
The Correct Site	355	(1)
Preparing the Site	355	(2)
Preparing the Planting Hole	357	(4)
What You Need to Know About Soil	357	(1)
Matching Shrubs and Small Trees to Soil	358	(3)
Planting Shrubs and Small Trees	361	(14)
Buying Shrubs and Small Trees	361	(1)
Buying Bare Root Plants	361	(5)
When to Buy Containerized Plants	366	(3)
Buying Balled and Burlapped Plants	369	(2)
Growing Shrubs in Containers	371	(3)
Spacing	374	(1)
Transplanting	375	(3)
When to Transplant	375	(1)
How to Transplant Shrubs and Small Trees	375	(3)
Caring for Shrubs and Small Trees	378	(11)
Water	378	(2)
Mulch	380	(1)
Fertilizing	381	(3)
Weeding	384	(1)
Staking	384	(1)
Deadheading	385	(1)
Pruning	385	(3)
Winter Protection	388	(1)
Solving Problems	389	(15)
Organic Disease Prevention and Insect Control	389	(1)
If You Must Spray	390	(2)
Chemical Insect and Disease Control	392	(8)
Physiological, Mechanical, and Nutritional Problems	400	(2)
Animal Problems	402	(2)
Propagating Shrubs and Small Trees	404	(9)
Division from Whole Plants	404	(1)
Division of Suckers	404	(1)
Ground Layering, Soil Layering, or Pegging	405	(1)
Mound Layering	405	(1)
Stem Cuttings	406	(2)
Root Cuttings	408	(1)
Budding and Grafting	409	(1)
Starting Plants from Seed	409	(3)
Tissue Culture, Micropropagation, In Vitro Propagation	412	(1)
Special Uses for Shrubs and Small Trees	413	(4)
Cut Stems for Flowers, Foliage, or Berries	413	(1)
Forcing	414	(2)
Dried Flowers, Foliage, and Stems	416	(1)
Fruit and Berries as Food	416	(1)
Tools and Supplies	417	(4)
Safety Tips	417	(1)
Tools and Supplies	417	(4)
Glossary	421

Excerpts

Chapter One

INDIVIDUAL LISTINGS

Many terrific shrubs and small tress grow well in cold climates. It is frustrating to read about a specific plant only to find out it will not grow in your area. The plants in this book can stand up to tough conditions. These plants all have distinctive characteristics and each can add a special dimension to your yard. Use this information to combine shrubs and small trees in your own way to make your yard unique and beautiful.

Varieties

More than 750 varieties of shrubs are listed in Part I. These have all been rated using a five-star system (see page 7). The stars reflect our overall opinion of the shrubs. The ones with the most stars stand out from the rest. Nevertheless, you should visit local gardens to see these plants for yourself. Seeing actual plants gives you the most accurate picture of what a plant will look like under ideal growing conditions, particularly plants in your area. Since many shrubs have a completely different look in different seasons, try revisiting gardens throughout the entire year to truly appreciate all they have to offer. No one call describe the exquisite scents of some of these shrubs, nor the richness of their fall coloration, or the delightful taste or beauty of their berries.

Hardiness

The cold hardiness of shrubs (and small trees) is a complex subject. All of the plants listed should survive temperatures of -20°F (-29°C) or colder during their dormant period in midwinter. However, minimum temperature for survival in midwinter is only one concern for cold-climate gardeners. In fall, shrubs and trees begin to prepare for winter cold through the process of acclimation, or "hardening off." Lack of light and increasingly chilly temperatures trigger this process. Leaves on deciduous shrubs fall off. Growth of all shrubs slows down. Cells begin to change structure so that they will be less likely to be damaged during the dormant season when temperatures dip well below 0°F (-18°C). The cells in flower buds may go through a process known as supercooling. Leaf buds, bark, and other tissues slowly dehydrate. Both supercooling and dehydration prevent the formation of ice crystals within cells. If ice crystals form, they expand, rupture the cell wall (membrane), and kill the cell. In the spring the process is reversed and is known as deacclimation. Cells begin to revert to their previous structure as days get longer and temperatures warm up. With each passing day, they are less able to resist freezing.

    Clearly then, certain weather patterns can wreak havoc on shrubs. In the fall, temperatures may drop dramatically before the shrub has a chance to harden off fully. In midwinter, temperatures may get unseasonably warm only to be followed by sudden temperature drops. This too can damage shrubs. And, finally, during the spring, if warm weather is followed by a late freeze, shrubs or their often less hardy flower buds can be severely damaged. For this reason, hardiness is not as simple as defining the minimum possible temperature in midwinter as is done in zone maps and in the varietal tables throughout this guide. Shrubs or small trees do not always die immediately from trauma. Their actual death may take several years, which is often puzzling to the home gardener who is not aware of this fact.

    Even though you may live in a specific zone as defined on the zone map, your yard may have many microclimates. Large yards with sites ranging from highly protected to highly exposed may represent more than one zone. This often explains why in one yard a shrub may survive and thrive while in another nearby yard it dies back or dies out completely. Or, why in one yard a shrub may survive in a protected area but die back or die out completely in a more exposed site. Zone maps are also misleading in that they don't take into consideration such things as relative humidity, overall daylight versus cloud cover, and similar climatic conditions. The fact that a specific plant may survive to -30°F (-34°C) doesn't tell the whole story. Perhaps it will only do well in an area with cool summers or high humidity. When specific climatic conditions are required for good growth of a specific plant, this is pointed out.

    Finally, knowing the geographical origin of a plant may be critical to your success as well. Specific plants may be native in both cold and warm climates throughout the United States. Unfortunately, those grown from seeds produced by shrubs in the South are rarely hardy in colder climates. Breeders using plants native to colder regions are often able to breed greater cold hardiness into a specific species.

    Whenever possible, buy nursery stock grown locally. Shrubs grown in your area have a better chance of surviving in your' yard. This is not always possible and you may be willing to take chances on certain shrubs or trees available only from mail-order sources in warmer areas.

The Varieties Charts

The shrubs and small trees listed in the Varieties chart at the end of each section in Part I are presented in a uniform manner. These lists are extremely valuable, representing decades of field-testing and observation by experienced growers in cold climates. Many of these plants do quite well in more southerly areas as well, but some thrive only in colder areas.

The Plant Group (Genus)

The name of each section in Part I represents a group of plants (genus), such as Prunus . This group of shrubs and small trees will be used as an example of how the charts at the end of each section are laid out. The plants placed under the heading Prunus are there because they have common characteristics.

The Species

In the plant listing, some plant names are in italic typeface. These plants are found naturally in the wild and are referred to as a species. The word species is both singular and plural. Prunus americana is a tree that grows wild in many areas of this country.

Variety (var.)

When a wild plant varies somewhat from the species but is quite similar to it, it's referred to as a variety. Prunus maritima var. flava is an example. Prunus maritima is the species, while flava is the variety (var.). The only real difference between the two is that the variety produces fruit of a different color. Otherwise, they are almost identical.

Cultivated Variety (Cultivar)

When a new plant is developed or selected, it is known as a cultivated variety (cultivar) and given a name of the originator's choice. A cultivar will appear with single quotation marks, such as `Atropurpurea.' Cultivars are genetically identical and often referred to as "named varieties." In some of the plant groups there will be two names given for the same plant. The name most commonly used in selling the plant to the public is the trade name. Many trade names will bear either a trademark ((tm)) or registered ((r)) symbol. When bearing these symbols, the single quotes are dropped. For example, Wine & Roses would be listed as Wine & Roses(tm) until the name has been federally registered, and then it will appear as Wine & Roses(r).

A Cross

Sometimes species and cultivars are interbred to create a new plant. Prunus x cistena is a cross between Prunus pumila (a species) and Prunus cerasifera `Atropurpurea' (the previously mentioned cultivar). Crosses can also be made in other ways, but this is a good example.

    This system of naming plants can seem somewhat intimidating, but the advantage of knowing the correct name is obvious. By knowing the Latin and cultivar names, you should get the exact plant you want from local nurseries or mail-order sources. If you order by common name, this may not happen because common names vary widely throughout the country and the same common name may be given to completely different plants. Finally, no matter where you are in the world people know plants by their Latin names.

Sources

Each section includes an alphabetized list of mail-order sources for that group of plants. These lists are important because local nurseries may stock a rather limited supply of plants. There are more than 100 mail-order sources listed throughout this guide. The variety of plants offered by individual sources varies considerably. Some companies may specialize in the group of shrubs or small trees highlighted in a particular section or may only sell one or two unusual types within that group. Offerings change frequently. The sources listed are primarily retail. A few are wholesale, but will sell to retail customers. These generally require that you spend a minimum amount of money, but the amount is reasonable. If you cannot find a specific plant, ask these mail-order sources for help. Or, call the Andersen Horticultural Library at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. The library will try to help you find one shrub or small tree. You will not be charged for this single request. The library also publishes the Andersen Horticultural Library's Source List of Plants and Seeds every few years. This is invaluable if you're trying to locate specific plants. For information on this publication write or call:

Andersen Horticultural Library

P. O. Box 39, Chanhassen, MN 55317

[phone]

    The library also has computerized its source list at http:\\www.plantinfo.umn.edu. General information about the service is available at this site. There is an annual charge for a subscription password that gives access to plant source information. This service goes far beyond the source book, providing nursery information and references to publications dealing with the plant in which you're interested.

    The obvious advantage to this computerized service is that plant lists with appropriate sources can be updated more easily on-line than in print. However, the library stresses that while plants are keyed to sources, plants are not always available. All catalogs from sources also emphasize limited availability by year. Some of the plants listed here will be available one year, not the next, then possibly available a year or two later. However, the majority of the plants will be available from local nurseries or a specific mail-order company every year.

    When ordering by mail, keep these tips in mind:

• Printing catalogs, especially those with color, has become extremely expensive. When ordering a catalog through the mail, always include a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The mail-order company will then inform you if there is a charge for the catalog or will simply send one for free. Any charge is generally applied against a first purchase.

• It is also possible to call the mail-order company and ask for a catalog. At that point it will tell you whether there is a charge or not. To receive a catalog quickly, have a credit card handy. If you have a computer, ask whether the catalog is on-line. This is quickly becoming the fastest and easiest way to get complete, current information on the availability of specific plants listed in this guide. Each year more companies are going on-line as a way of simplifying the process of updating their offerings and cutting costs of printing catalogs.

• Good catalogs include the Latin name of each shrub. Use that name when placing an order. When in doubt, use the Latin name in this guide along with the varietal name so that there is no misunderstanding about the shrub being ordered. Catalogs that list shrubs by common name or by color only are not doing their job. Move on to a different company!

• Compare offerings in several catalogs. Make sure to understand the age of the plant being ordered. The more mature a plant, the more expensive it is likely to be.

• Ask whether a plant is growing on its own roots or is grafted If a plant is grafted, ask what rootstock has been used.

• Buy plants as early in the year as possible since stock may be limited.

• If ordering plants by phone, be sure to get the name of the person you talk to and keep it on file.

• If ordering in writing, fill out the form completely and don't forget to include the charge for shipping and handling. Never send cash. Never leave your credit card number exposed on the return mailer.

• Many catalogs suggest accepting substitutions for plants that are sold out. Whether you are willing to do this is a matter of personal choice. To avoid this problem, order early.

• Since you are growing plants in a cold climate, specify the date you would like to receive your shipment. Stress this. Plants mailed in extreme cold often die; they also require extra care to keep alive until planting time.

• Ask what kind of guarantee the company has for its plants. Unfortunately, most limit their warranties to the present growing season. This is very frustrating because plants are most likely to die out, if they are going to, in the winter following the first growing season. Ask for an extension of the warranty. The company may or may not agree to this.

• Once plants are received, check to see that you got what you ordered.

• Check the plants immediately to make sure that they are not dried out, damaged, or dead. Dead stem tissue often is brittle and cracks easily if bent; also, if cut into, it will be brown rather than light white or green.

• Plant all shrubs as soon as possible, following the exact planting directions provided.

• Keep records of orders, and label all plants. If a plant turns out to be an "imposter," let the company know and get a refund. Few companies deliberately mail the wrong plants, but it does happen that plants get mixed up by mistake. Some shrubs grow slowly, and records may have to be kept for a number of years.

• Some entries for suppliers in the source listings in individual sections of Part I are marked "Canada only." These Canadian suppliers can only send plants to residents of Canada.

• In a few instances, there are restrictions on the sale of plants between states within the United States as well. This is to stop the spread of certain diseases and insect infestations.

• The availability of some shrubs varies by year. Occasionally, a specific variety may be in such short supply that the commercial grower must rebuild stock before selling it again. If there is enough demand, the specific variety of shrub will be on the market again in the near future. So let sources know that you want a specific plant.

Seed Companies

You can grow away shrubs and small trees from either collected or purchased seed. The number of companies offering seed for shrubs and small trees is dwindling. Following are a few that remain:

Chiltern Seeds

Bortree Stile, Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 7PB England

00 (44) 01229 584549

F.W. Schumacher Co.

36 Spring Hill Rd., Sandwich, MA 02563

[phone]

J. L. Hudson, Seedsman

Star Rte. 2, P.O. Box 337, La Honda, CA 94020

Northplan Mountain Seed

P.O. Box 9107, Moscow, ID 83843

[phone]

Ron's Rare Plants & Seeds

415 Chappel, Calumet City, IL 60409

[phone]

Sheffield's Seed Co., Inc.

273 Auburn Rd., Rt. 34, Locke, NY 13092

[phone]

Using This Growing Guide

Read the chapters in Part II if you are not an experienced gardener before delving into the 50 individual shrub sections in Part I. The chapters in Part II contain specific tips and procedures that may not be found in the rest of the book. Or, they may contain more detailed information on a specific procedure to avoid unnecessary repetition.

    While the language is as simple and easy to understand as possible, you may run into unfamiliar words. Read the glossary in advance to understand their meanings. The glossary also contains information related to these terms that will help you be successful in growing shrubs in cold climates.

    The material in individual sections of Part I may appear to be repetitive. However, there are subtle differences in the text. It is these seemingly small points that lead to success with each shrub. There is an advantage to having all of the growing information in each section. You will not be frustrated by having to flip back and forth to get specific facts that vary by plant.

    The lists of plants at the end of each section in Part I contain many terrific shrubs and small trees. Note that mail-order catalogs may differ slightly in how these plants are categorized. If you order the plants as listed, the mail-order companies will understand what you're after. And that's what really counts.

ABIES

(AY-bees)

Fir

The Firs listed here are unique plants, most commonly used in rock gardens but increasingly in perennial borders. The plants are prized by collectors for the lovely color and texture of their evergreen foliage. They are rarely bothered by diseases or insects. However, they react badly to high heat or drought. They are also extremely slow growing.

How Firs Grow

Firs have a relatively shallow, fibrous root system. Plants produce numerous branches covered with needles (leaves) that vary in length by variety. The new growth or candling has a softer green color than older needles. Needles tend to be flat and often have a different coloration underneath than on the surface. They generally last several years, then drop off. Some Firs will form upright stems (leaders) which initiate vertical growth. While most of the Firs listed in the chart will not produce cones, Abies koreana `Silberlocke' will as it matures.

Where to Plant

Site and Light Firs prefer full sun but tolerate partial shade. Plant them where they will have good air circulation.

Soil and Moisture Firs prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soils that remain cool and moist throughout the growing season. If soil is compacted, replace it or build a raised bed. Firs grow well in rocky soils as long as the soils are loose. Keep the root system moist and cool by using lots of acidic mulch and watering regularly. As the plants mature, they shade their own root systems, but in early growth they demand more attention.

Spacing Space Firs with their mature size in mind. They can be quite slow growing, but eventually they will take up the space outlined in the chart at the end of this section.

Landscape Use

The dwarf Firs selected make excellent specimen plants in rock gardens and also fit nicely into foundation plantings. Their relatively small size and slow growth rate make them especially valuable in tight spaces. Dwarf Firs added to shrub and perennial borders also make good accent plants because of their interesting coloration and texture.

Planting

Bare Root Rarely sold this way.

Containerized Plants If the soil in the container is dry, soak it thoroughly and let it drain overnight before planting. Carefully remove the plant from the container to avoid shattering the root ball. Plant at the same depth as in the container. Fill in with well-prepared soil, press firmly to get rid of all air pockets, and water immediately. Dissolve acidic water-soluble fertilizer in a gallon (about 4 liters) of water following the directions on the label. Pour 1/2 cup (about 120 ml) of this starter solution around the base of each plant. If you prefer organic fertilizer, use fish emulsion instead.

Balled and Burlapped Rarely sold this way.

Transplanting

Dig up the plant in early spring before new growth emerges. Keep as much soil around the roots as possible. Plant immediately as you would a containerized plant. With the larger varieties, hire professionals to do this if' the plants have already matured over a period of years.

How to Care for Firs

Water Keep the soil evenly moist from spring until the soil freezes in fall. Consistent watering is especially important during the first 2 years. Always saturate the soil deeply with each watering. When the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil dry out, water. Never let these plants suffer water stress during prolonged dry spells.

Mulch Apply a 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm) layer of mulch around each plant as soon as the ground warms up in spring. Good mulches include shredded bark, pine needles, and wood chips. Mulch retains moisture in the soil and helps prevent the growth of weeds. Replenish the mulch as necessary throughout the growing season.

Fertilizing Fertilize every spring with an acidic fertilizer, such as Miracid. Any acidic fertilizers designed for use with evergreens and Rhododendrons are also recommended. Follow the directions on the labels for correct dosage. If using granular fertilizer, saturate the soil to dissolve the particles and carry nutrients into the root zone.

    If you prefer organic fertilizers, use alfalfa meal (rabbit pellets), blood meal, bone meal, compost, fish emulsion, Milorganite, or rotted manures. Bone meal must be added to the soil at planting time to be effective. If available locally, use cottonseed meal since it's mildly acidic.

Weeding Prevent the growth of most annual weeds by using mulch. Pull by hand any weeds that do appear. Weeds compete with Firs for available moisture and nutrients and should be removed immediately.

Deadheading Not a consideration.

Pruning If any portion of the plant dies back after a hard winter, snip it off to live stem tissue below. Plants require little to no pruning for good health. Shape or control the plant's size through pruning. Do this in spring after new growth emerges. Cut new growth back by no more than one-half. If a plant forms an upright stem (leader), it is your choice as to whether to cut it off or not. Leave it on for upright form; cut it off to keep the plant in a more controlled shape.

Winter Protection Firs may experience some winter damage in the first year or two. Proper watering until the first freeze is very important. So is placing them in a protected location.

Problems

Insects None serious.

Disease None serious.

Marauders Some people have problems with rabbits and deer nibbling foliage in the winter. Surround plantings with fencing or spray them with repellents if this becomes a problem.

Propagation

Abies balsamea `Nana' (Dwarf Balsam Fir) and Abies koreana `Silberlocke' (Silberlocke Korean Fir) are propagated from hardwood cuttings. In winter, snip off new growth. Keep cuttings moist and cool but provide bottom heat to stimulate growth. For additional information, see pages 406-408. The other varieties listed at the end of the chapter are usually grafted to the rootstock of varying Firs, but this should be left in the hands of professionals.

Special Uses

None.

Sources

ArborVillage

P.O. Box 227, Holt, MO 64048

[phone]

Corn Hill Nursery, Ltd.

RR 5, Petitcodiac, NB EOA 2H0, Canada

[phone] (Canada only)

Dilworth Nursery

235 Election Rd., Oxford, PA 19363

[phone]

Eastern Plant Specialties

P.O. Box 5692, Clark, NJ 07066

[phone]

Forestfarm

990 Tetherow Rd., Williams, OR 97544

[phone]

Girard Nurseries

P.O. Box 428, Geneva, OH 44041

[phone]

Gossler Farms Nursery

1200 Weaver Rd., Springfield, OR 97478

[phone]

Greer Gardens

1280 Goodpasture Island Rd., Eugene, OR 97401

[phone], [phone]

Hortico, Inc.

723 Robson Rd., RR 1, Waterdown, ON LoR 2H1, Canada

[phone]

Porterhowse Farms

41370 SE Thomas Rd., Sandy, OR 97055

[phone]

Rich's Foxwillow Pines Nursery

11618 McConnell Rd., Woodstock, IL 60098

[phone]

Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery

2825 Cummings Rd., Medford, OR 97501

[phone]

Squaw Mountain Gardens

P.O. Box 946, 36212 SE Squaw Mountain Rd.,

Estacada, OR 97023

[phone]

Wavecrest Nursery

2509 Lakeshore Dr., Fennville, MI 49408

[phone], [phone]

VARIETIES

Dwarf conifers grow very slowly. They may take decades to reach full size. Take this into consideration when noting the height and width of individual plants listed.

Abies balsamea

(Dwarf Balsam Fir)

`Nana'***

Dark green

2' (60 cm)/3' (90 cm)

-40°F (-40°C)

The shrub spreads but has an attractive, mounded form that is both neat and controlled. It has very short, stiff needles, deep green on top, silvery underneath. New growth in spring is light green but turns deep blue green to dark green as it matures. It is extremely slow growing. Always buy this plant growing on its own roots. If grafted, the plant may not have the tight, uniform appearance desired.

Abies concolor

(White Fir)

`Compacta'*** 

`Glauca Compacta' (see `Compacta')

Blue gray

 

5' (1.5 m)/4' (1.2 m)

 

-30°F (-34°C)

 

The species is a large and very beautiful tree growing well over a hundred feet tall under ideal conditions. `Compacta' grows very slowly. Its needles are shorter than the species but have a wonderful rich coloration. The plant can have a somewhat dense and irregular form, but it is still very appealing.

Abies koreana

(Korean Fir)

`Silberlocke'

Silver 

12' (3.7 m)/3' (1 m)

-20°F (-29°C)

The species is a lovely tree with interesting purple cones. `Silberlocke' has become one of the most popular selections. The color of its needles, their unusual way of curling up at the tips, and the overall twisting growth pattern make it stand out. In time the plant produces green, upright cones. Plants may be sold either grafted or rooted from cuttings. Catalogs list many other exciting plants in this category. These will be added and stars awarded only after additional field-testing.

Abies lasiocarpa

(Alpine Fir)

var. arizonica `Compacta' 

`Green Globe'

Blue

Dark green

8' (2.4 m)/4' (1.2 m)

3' (1 m)/3' (1 m)

-30°F (-34°C)

-30°F (-34°C)

`Compacta' is a grafted plant commonly known as the "Cork Bark Fir" because it has unusual cream-colored bark. Its foliage is dense with an excellent blue coloration. It has an attractive conical shape. It is becoming increasingly popular among landscape designers. `Green Globe' displays dense, dark green needles. While it typically is short and rounded, it will form a rather tall, upright specimen if leaders are not removed. The photo in this section represents that type of atypical growth. It is possible that both of these plants may be hardier than listed here. Catalogs list other attractive Alpine Firs. These will be added and stars awarded only after additional field-testing.

(Continues...)

VARIETY	FOLIAGE COLOR	HEIGHT/WIDTH	HARDINESS

Copyright © 2001 John Whitman. All rights reserved.