History of Fashion in the 20th Century

by Delius, Peter

• ISBN13: 9783829020336
• ISBN10: 3829020333
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2000-08-01
• Publisher: Konemann

Table of Contents

Beginnings Of Haute Couture
Clothes and fashion	6	(1)
Fashion as art?	6	(1)
Haute couture, pret-a-porter, and ready-made clothes	7	(1)
The omnipresence of fashion	8	(1)
Changing shapes	8	(1)
Fashion and gender	9	(1)
Charles Frederick Worth and the beginning of haute couture	9	(1)
Fashion for women and clothes for men	9	(1)
The hat	10	(2)
Reform groups	12	(1)
The fashion department of the Vienna Workshops	13	(1)
Paul Poiret, artist and reformer	14	(1)
New shapes, new materials, new colors	14	(1)
Orientalism in fashion	15	(1)
Mariano Fortuny	16	(1)
Fashion lines before the Great War	16	(1)
Futurism	16	(1)
Pause for war	17	(1)
The Roaring Twenties
Postwar Europe	18	(2)
Fashion and the modern arts	20	(1)
New self-confidence, new fashion	20	(1)
Fashion for all	21	(1)
An all too manly femininity	21	(1)
Coco Chanel	22	(2)
Androgyny	24	(1)
Severe elegance	24	(1)
Eveningwear	25	(1)
Accessories	26	(1)
Trends in men's fashion	26	(2)
Dandies and tramps	28	(1)
New fashion houses	28	(2)
Once again, Futurism	30	(1)
Sonia Delaunay	30	(1)
Russian rational dress	31	(1)
The Triadic Ballet	31	(1)
Fashion In Times Of Crisis
Change of scene	32	(1)
Fashion and the movies	33	(1)
Changing shapes	34	(1)
Fashion, design, and life-style	35	(1)
Fashion designers of the 1930s	36	(1)
Nina Ricci's fashion empire	37	(1)
Madeleine Vionnet	37	(1)
Madame Gres	38	(1)
Coco Chanel	38	(1)
Fashion and Surrealism: Elsa Schiaparelli	39	(1)
The international scene	40	(1)
Wartime improvisation	41	(1)
The New Look In Full Swing
Theatre de la mode	42	(1)
A newcomer creates the New Look	43	(1)
Everyday fashion	44	(1)
Men's fashion	45	(1)
The new masters	46	(1)
Pierre Balmain	47	(1)
Jacques Fath	47	(1)
Hubert de Givenchy	47	(1)
Christian Dior	48	(2)
Jacques Griffe	50	(1)
Jean Desses	50	(1)
Cristobal Balenciaga	50	(1)
Trendsetting youth culture	51	(1)
Barbie	52	(1)
Jeans and the American lifestyle	53	(1)
Neo-Edwardian fashion and teddy boys	53	(1)
Shoes	54	(2)
Fashion Revolutions
Youth as social ideal	56	(1)
Linear esthetics	56	(1)
Role change	57	(1)
Hairstyles	57	(1)
Men's fashion	58	(1)
The hippie look	59	(1)
Television and the movies	59	(1)
Music	60	(1)
New structures in the fashion industry	61	(1)
Yves Saint Laurent	62	(2)
Street fashion	64	(1)
Carnaby Street and British fashion	64	(1)
``Swinging London''	65	(1)
Mary Quant	65	(1)
Biba	66	(1)
Laura Ashley	66	(1)
Fashion and art	67	(1)
Futuristic fashion	68	(1)
Pierre Cardin	69	(1)
The transparent look	69	(1)
The necktie	70	(2)
Flower Power
Politics as lifestyle	72	(1)
Pure nature - handmade	72	(1)
Nostalgia and ethnic styles	73	(1)
Form without norm	73	(1)
Skirts and dresses	74	(1)
Blouses and jackets	75	(1)
Italian fashion designers	76	(2)
Pants	78	(1)
Accessories	78	(2)
Separates	80	(1)
Haute couture	80	(1)
Punk	81	(1)
Models and the catwalk	82	(2)
Dress For Success
Postmodernism: a multitude of styles	84	(1)
New image-setters	85	(1)
The leisure look	86	(1)
Dress for success	86	(1)
Dynasty style	87	(1)
Fashion from Japan	88	(2)
The pleasure of self-presentation	90	(1)
The new outline	91	(1)
American fashion	91	(1)
Donna Karan	92	(1)
Calvin Klein	92	(1)
Ralph Lauren	92	(1)
The end of haute couture?	92	(1)
Christian Lacroix	93	(1)
Thierry Mugler	93	(1)
Jean Paul Gaultier	93	(1)
New classics: Karl Lagerfeld	94	(1)
Giorgio Armani	94	(1)
Gianni Versace	95	(1)
Image and strategy	96	(2)
Fin De Siecle
Changing perspectives	98	(1)
Fashion innovations	98	(1)
Fashion for different age groups	98	(1)
Fashion today	99	(1)
German fashion	100	(3)
Label as fetish	103	(1)
Fashionable understatement	103	(2)
Retro fashion	105	(1)
Grunge	105	(1)
Girlies	106	(1)
Techno	106	(1)
Haute couture and pret-a-porter	106	(1)
Glamor	107	(1)
Vivienne Westwood	108	(2)
Belgium, newcomer to the fashion scene	110	(1)
A new generation: the British are coming	111	(1)
Full circle	111	(1)
Glossary	112	(4)
Index of fashion designers	116	(4)
Acknowledgments	120