Preface to the Revised Edition, | ix | ||||
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1 | (26) | |||
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27 | (34) | |||
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61 | (36) | |||
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97 | (24) | |||
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121 | (28) | |||
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149 | (30) | |||
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179 | (26) | |||
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205 | (36) | |||
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241 | (28) | |||
10. An Essential Miscellany: Sauces, Preserves and Ice Cream, | 269 | (22) | |||
Index, | 291 |
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I once wandered into a nondescript tavern in central Frankfurt,Germany, and saw a romantic couple eating something that smelledwonderful with a single fork and knife. I asked the waitress what itwas and she replied, "Leiterchen mit Knoblauchsosse" ("a little ladderwith garlic sauce").
I ordered it and found out that "ladderlet" was the colorful andquite accurate Frankfurt dialectal way of naming a rack of ribs. Itwas delicious, and came with a green bean and onion salad, potatoesand local hard cider.
Great fortunes have been made purveying this classic Southernfood idea to millions of hungry people in other regions. It is themost successful of all traditional American regional dishes. Buteven, or perhaps especially, as a fast food, fried chicken is quite avariable recipe. Some like it crisp; others like it seasoned sharply.There are chicken chains for every taste. But I think none of themmatches the quality of chicken fried at home. It is almost as convenientto do it yourself -- and a lot cheaper -- than waiting in theplastic glare of a fast-food place and letting Colonel Whoever-he-isdecide how much "secret" spice mixture to use.
This recipe is meant only as a basic guideline. Once you havetried it, you will certainly want to fiddle with the spicing. If youlike hot food, you may want to join the vocal subculture that addsplenty of cayenne pepper to the basic flour mixture.
The quantity of chicken called for here is a deliberately generousamount for two people with normal appetites. But, as you havealready observed, some people eat piles of chicken, even when itisn't very good. Should there be any of your impeccable friedchicken left over, it will be just fine served cold the next day. (TraditionalSouthern cooks use lard for frying, because that was the fattheir forebears had in abundance. I prefer it today, because it addspersonality to the flavor of the chicken.)
Excerpted from How to Cook: An Easy and Imaginative Guide for the Beginner by Raymond Sokolov
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