Introduction to Physical Oceanography

by Knauss, John A.

• ISBN13: 9780132381550
• ISBN10: 0132381559
• Edition: 2nd
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 1997-01-01
• Publisher: Pearson College Div

Summary

For one-semester, junior/graduate-level courses in Physical Oceanography offered in Oceanography, Geology, Marine Biology, or Civil Engineering departments. Written by a respected scholar in the field, this comprehensive, contemporary introduction to physical oceanography covers fundamental topics of interest to biologists, chemists, geologists, and physical oceanographers.

Table of Contents

Preface	ix
Overview	1	(23)
What We Observe in the Ocean	1	(6)
Temperature	1	(2)
Salinity	3	(1)
Density	4	(1)
Scale	5	(2)
Ocean Circulation	7	(9)
Wind-Driven Currents	7	(4)
Thermohaline Circulation	11	(5)
Waves	16	(2)
How the Ocean Is Observed	18	(5)
Temperature	18	(1)
Salinity	18	(3)
Density	21	(1)
Velocity	21	(1)
Position	21	(1)
Depth	22	(1)
Satellites for Ocean Observing	23	(1)
A Word about Units	23	(1)
A Stratified Ocean	24	(15)
The Equation of State	24	(5)
Simple Equation of State	24	(1)
Complete Equation of State	25	(1)
Density Notation and Dynamic Height	25	(4)
Potential Temperature	29	(1)
Stability	30	(4)
Some Consequences of a Stratified Ocean	34	(2)
Vertical Mixing	34	(1)
Horizontal Mixing	35	(1)
Stratification as a Source of Kinetic Energy	36	(1)
T-S Diagrams	36	(3)
The Transfer of Heat Across the Ocean Surface	39	(20)
Sun's Radiative Energy (Qs)	40	(3)
Back Radiation (Qb)	43	(1)
Evaporation (Qe)	44	(2)
Sensible Heat Loss (Qh)	46	(1)
Variation in Incoming Radiation	47	(1)
Local Heat Balance: The Seasonal Thermocline	48	(5)
Surface Temperature of the Ocean	53	(2)
Sea Ice and Halocline Formation	55	(4)
Global Balances: The Conservation Equations	59	(21)
Global Heat Balance	59	(5)
Role of Advection in the Global Heat Balance	60	(1)
Climate Variability: Perturbations about the Mean	61	(2)
The Role of the Ocean in Global Warming	63	(1)
Global Water and Salt Balance	64	(2)
The Conservation Equations	66	(5)
Conservation Equations: Equations of Continuity	69	(2)
Mixing, Stirring, Turbulence, and Diffusion	71	(4)
Molecular Diffusion	71	(1)
Stirring and Mixing	72	(1)
Eddy Diffusion and Its Role in the Conservation Equations	73	(1)
Diffusion Terms in Conservation Equations	74	(1)
Box Models and Mixing Times	75	(5)
Residence Time	78	(2)
Equations of Motion	80	(28)
Acceleration	82	(2)
Acceleration	83	(1)
Pressure Gradient	84	(3)
Pressure Gradient	85	(2)
Coriolis Force	87	(8)
Coriolis Force	90	(5)
Gravity: Equal Potential Surfaces	95	(1)
Friction	96	(8)
Eddy Viscosity	98	(1)
Wind Stress	99	(1)
Friction Shearing Stresses (Molecular and Eddy Viscosity)	100	(1)
Reynolds Stresses	101	(1)
Reynolds Stress Terms	102	(2)
Equations of Motion	104	(1)
Vorticity	105	(3)
Vorticity	106	(2)
The Effect of the Earth's Rotation	108	(28)
Rossby Number	108	(2)
Geostrophic Flow	110	(6)
Margule's Equation	116	(2)
Barotropic and Baroclinic Fluids	118	(1)
Inclined Plane with Friction	119	(2)
Vertically Integrated Equation of Continuity	119	(2)
Available Potential Energy	121	(1)
Wind Stress: Ekman Transport	122	(3)
Upwelling: Ekman Pumping	125	(3)
The General Circulation: A First Look	128	(3)
Ekman Pumping	128	(3)
The General Circulation: Western Boundary Currents	131	(3)
Terminal Velocity	134	(2)
Major Ocean Currents	136	(27)
Western Boundary Currents: The Gulf Stream and Kuroshio	137	(6)
Eastern Boundary Currents: The California Current System	143	(3)
Equatorial Currents	146	(5)
El Nino Southern Oscillation	151	(1)
Antarctic Circumpolar Current	152	(4)
Currents of the Indian Ocean	156	(7)
The Distribution of Temperature and Salinity	163	(29)
Thermohaline Circulation and Core Analysis	163	(4)
The Mediterranean Outflow	167	(1)
Basins and Sills: The Role of Bottom Topography in Determining Temperature and Salinity Distributions	167	(3)
Formation of Water Types (Water Masses)	170	(2)
Characterization of Water Masses	172	(4)
Vertical Mixing	176	(4)
Convective Overturn	176	(1)
Diffusion and Advection	177	(2)
Double Diffusion: Salt Fingers	179	(1)
Deep Western Boundary Currents	180	(3)
Mesoscale Eddies	183	(3)
Microstructure: Energy Dissipation	186	(4)
Velocity Microstructure: Energy Dissipation	187	(1)
Temperature Fine Structure	188	(2)
Langmuir Circulation	190	(2)
Wind-Generated Waves	192	(26)
Wave Characteristics	192	(7)
Small-Amplitude Wave Equation	195	(4)
Particle Motion	199	(2)
Wave Energy and Wave Dispersion	201	(4)
Group Velocity	203	(2)
Wave Spectrum and the Fully Developed Seas	205	(2)
Stokes Waves and Capillary Waves	207	(5)
Stokes Waves	207	(3)
Capillary Waves	210	(2)
Wave Formation, Propagation, and Dissipation	212	(3)
Formation	212	(1)
Propagation	212	(1)
Dissipation	213	(2)
Longshore Currents and Rip Currents	215	(3)
Tides and Other Waves	218	(27)
Tsunami	218	(1)
Seiches	219	(3)
Edge Waves	222	(1)
Very Long Waves: The Coriolis Effect	223	(6)
Kelvin Waves	224	(1)
Kelvin Wave	225	(1)
Inertia Gravity Waves	226	(2)
Rossby Waves	228	(1)
Internal Waves	229	(5)
Reduced Gravity	230	(1)
Internal Waves in a Two-layer Ocean	231	(1)
Internal Waves in a Stratified Ocean	232	(2)
Tidal Forces	234	(2)
Equilibrium and Dynamic Theory of Tides	236	(2)
Ocean Tides	238	(5)
Tidal Currents	243	(2)
The Coastal Ocean and Semienclosed Seas	245	(24)
Convective Flow in an Estuary	246	(4)
Types of Estuaries	250	(2)
Estuarine Circulation	252	(1)
Estuarine Residence Time	253	(3)
Coastal Processes	256	(4)
Effect of Rivers	256	(1)
Upwelling	256	(3)
Shelf Waves	259	(1)
Role of the Coriolis Force	259	(1)
Semienclosed Seas	260	(9)
Arctic Ocean	260	(2)
Mediterranean Sea	262	(4)
Black Sea	266	(3)
Sound and Optics	269	(23)
Some Definitions Used in Underwater Sound	269	(2)
Intensity	270	(1)
Sound Level and Decibels	270	(1)
Frequency	271	(1)
Sound Velocity: The Deep Sound Channel	271	(1)
Transmission Loss	272	(4)
Absorption and Scattering	276	(1)
Ambient Noise	277	(1)
Refraction and Reflection	278	(4)
Underwater Optics	282	(10)
Attenuation	283	(3)
Refraction	286	(1)
Absorption and Scattering	286	(6)
Appendix One Selected Reading	292	(5)
Appendix Two Units---Definitions, Abbreviations, and Conversions	297	(2)
Appendix Three Some Useful Values	299	(6)
Index	305