Jackets for Real People Tailoring Made Easy

by Alto, Marta; Neall, Susan; Palmer, Pati

• ISBN13: 9780935278668
• ISBN10: 0935278664
• Edition: 4th
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2006-09-01
• Publisher: Palmer/Pletsch Publishing

Summary

Use this book and all of your sewing will improve. For a minimal investment and a little time, you can have a designer jacket. Using the latest interfacings sew it Armani-style and achieve a custom fit no matter what your figure. Pattern and fabric selection, The latest on fusible interfacings, Cutting and marking tips, How-tos for buttonholes, a no-fail welt pocket, "bagging" a lining, easy mitered vents, and much more. Finishing touches such as topstitching and piping. Book jacket.

Table of Contents

About the Authors	3	(4)
About Sewing Jackets	7	(4)
A Little History
What Makes it Tailored?
Custom Tailoring Methods
Today's Easier Tailoring Methods
Why Learn Tailoring Techniques?
Optimize Time, Sew an Outfit!
Pattern Selection	11	(4)
Select a Pattern with Good Lines for YOU!
Choose an Attractive Jacket Length
Easiest to Most Difficult Styles, Shapes and Details to Sew
Fabrics	15	(6)
Choose an Easy Fabric
Sewing and Shaping Tips for Fashion Fabrics
Organize your Stash
Fashion Fabric Care Guide
Seam Finishes
Shaping Fabrics	21	(7)
Terminology
The Critical Issue: Interfacing
Where to Interface
Fusibles vs. Sew-ins
How to Choose a Fusible Interfacing
Sew-In Interfacings
Lining
Underlining
Interlining
Preshrinking and Care of Shaping Fabrics
Common Questions About Fusibles
Great Notions for Jacket Sewing	28	(1)
Cutting and Marking Tools
Sewing Tools
Pressing and Seam Finishes	29	(3)
Pressing Equipment
How to Press
Pressing Darts
Pressing Seams
Pressing Edges
Make Sure It Will Fit	32	(9)
Pattern Size
Ease
How to Fit a Pattern
Tissue-fitting and Common Alterations
Fitting as You Sew
Fitting Jackets on REAL People	41	(14)
Marta
Anastasia
Laurie
Sue
Pati
Cutting, Marking, and Interfacing	55	(9)
``Turn-of-cloth''
Why a Bias Undercollar?
Change Collar Grain Line
Straighten Fabric Grainline
How to TEST Fabrics for Shrinkage
Cutting Layout
Snip Marking
Cutting Lining Without a Pattern
Cutting, Fusing, and Marking Interfacing
Jacket Front	64	(12)
Tape the Roll Line
Sew and Press Darts and Seams
Patch Pockets
Double-Welt Pockets
Pocket Flaps
Back and Under Collar	76	(4)
Back Stay Interfacing
Sew Back to Front
Under Collar
Sleeves, Shoulder Pads, and Chest Shaping	80	(11)
One-piece VS Two-piece sleeves
Easy Mitered Vent
Setting in Sleeves, Two Methods
Sleeve Heads
Sleeve Fit
Shoulder Pads
Chest Pieces
Facing, Upper Collar, Lining, and Hems	91	(10)
Quick-Lining
Facing
Upper Collar
The Dot
Sewing and Pressing the Outside Seam
Hems and Jump Hems
Bagging a Lining	101	(5)
That ``Tricky'' Little Front Bit
An Overview of Bagging
The Important Reminders
THE HEM DOT
Bag the Lining
Finish the Sleeve Hem
Do As We Say, Not As We Do
Buttonholes	106	(6)
Tips for Machine Buttonholes
Sewing on Buttons
Bound Buttonholes, Three Methods
Triangular Buttonholes
More Pockets	112	(3)
Inseam
Single-welt
Creative Pocket Ideas
Easy Mitered Back Vent	115	(2)
Back Vent-Goof-proof Back Vent in a Lining
Finishing the Back Vent
Finishing Touches	117	(3)
Edgestitching
Topstitching
Bias Strips
Piping
Decorative Seams & Edge Finishes
Pocket Lining as Hanky
TIPS That Will Improve ALL of Your Sewing	120	(2)
Perfect Princess Seams
Sew With Stable Side on Top
Understitching
Staystitching
Patience and Memory Savers
Two Left Sleeves?
Plaids and Stripes	122	(2)
Layout
Cutting
Sewing
Men's Jackets	124	(1)
Differences from Women's Tailoring
Fabrics
Front Chest Piece
Sleeves
Index	125	(2)
Other Products from Palmer/Pletsch	127