Kimono : Fashioning Culture

by Dalby, Liza

• ISBN13: 9780295981550
• ISBN10: 0295981555
• Edition: Reprint
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2001-10-01
• Publisher: Univ of Washington Pr

Summary

In this lavishly illustrated book, anthropologist Dalby, author of "Geisha" and "Tale of Murasaki", traces the history of the national garment of Japan--its uses, aesthetics, and social meanings. 350 illustrations, 71 in color.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments	x
PART I CLOTHING AND CULTURE
Kimono Theme and Variations	3	(14)
Kimono, My Bias	6	(1)
Clothing as a Cultural System	7	(2)
Kimono Past and Present	9	(4)
A Grammar of Kimono	13	(4)
The Natural History of Kimono	17	(42)
Parts of the Kimono Body	18	(4)
Ideas about Indigenous Native Garments	22	(3)
Early Chinese Prototypes	25	(6)
The Embryonic Kimono	31	(3)
Kosode Is Born	34	(4)
Fluttering Sleeves	38	(6)
The Rise of the Obi	44	(8)
Sumptuary Regulations and Cool Chic	52	(4)
Kimono Meets Its Match	56	(3)
The Kimono Discovers Itself	59	(52)
Kimono Self-consciousness	60	(4)
The Clothing of Meiji	64	(2)
Civilization and Enlightenment in Early Meiji	66	(13)
Political Haberdashery	66	(7)
The Unraveling Thread	73	(6)
High Westernization	79	(11)
Progressive Representations	79	(5)
Rationalization and Restrictions	84	(6)
Kimono Renascence in Late Meiji	90	(21)
Meiji Kimono and How They Were Worn	91	(2)
A Mark of Class	93	(5)
Permitted Colors	98	(3)
Western Influence on Meiji Kimono	101	(5)
Cultural Cross-dressing	106	(5)
PART II KIMONO IN THE MODERN WORLD
Women Who Cross Their Legs---Kimono in Modern Japan	111	(34)
Kimono with a Capital K	114	(8)
The Context of Official Kimono	114	(5)
Kimono Academies	119	(3)
Women and Wafuku	122	(10)
The Taisho Transformation	124	(6)
The War Years	130	(2)
The Functionalist Critique	132	(6)
The Feminist Critique	138	(3)
Kimono-ron	141	(4)
The Other Kimono	145	(18)
The People's Kimono	146	(4)
Work Clothes---the Other Kimono	150	(5)
Mingei Aspects of Folk Clothing	155	(3)
Stripes and Ikat	158	(5)
The Structure of Kimono	163	(54)
What the Kimono Signifies	164	(4)
Gender	168	(2)
Life and Death	170	(1)
Formality	171	(22)
The Age Dimension	193	(13)
Taste---the Geisha Dimension	206	(2)
Season	208	(9)
PART III KIMONO CONTEXTS
The Cultured Nature of Heian Colors	217	(54)
A New &Aelig;sthetic System	218	(3)
Women and Dress	221	(2)
Rank and Sensibility	223	(1)
Layers of Color	224	(2)
An Imperial Wardrobe	226	(14)
Colors for a Court Lady's Dress	240	(28)
Cultured Nature	268	(3)
Moronobu's Fashion Magazine	271	(52)
Clothing and Common Culture	272	(2)
Mercurial Gender	274	(2)
Fashion Books	276	(3)
The Kosode Full-length Mirror	279	(25)
Flowers of Youth	304	(5)
Ten Thousand Women	309	(6)
Yuzen hinagata	315	(8)
Geisha and Kimono	323	(14)
Geisha Influences on Kimono	328	(2)
Geishawear	330	(7)
Notes to the Text	337	(13)
Notes to the Illustrations	350	(9)
Bibliography	359	(10)
Index and Glossary	369