Preface to the Second Printing | p. xiii |
Preface | p. xvii |
The Importance of Passing Through: Traveler Writers in Louisiana | p. 1 |
American Nile: The River | p. 11 |
Discovering the Mississippi's Mouth | p. 14 |
Vive le Roi: La Salle Reaches the Mississippi's Mouth | p. 16 |
A Near Ambush | p. 19 |
Entrance of the Mississippi | p. 21 |
Waiting for a Boat | p. 24 |
Steamboat Accommodations | p. 26 |
Gambling on the River | p. 31 |
Castles and Plantations | p. 35 |
The 1927 Flood | p. 38 |
Show-Boat | p. 46 |
Canoeing the Mississippi | p. 51 |
The Invisible Corridor | p. 54 |
Travel Update | p. 61 |
A Splendid Bedlam of a City: New Orleans | p. 69 |
New Orleans in the 1760s | p. 73 |
Where Human Life Can Be Enjoyed | p. 77 |
Congo Square | p. 78 |
Parrots, Spider-Monkeys, and Sun Umbrellas | p. 80 |
The Levee | p. 81 |
Rain and Mosquitoes | p. 82 |
The French Quarter | p. 86 |
The French Market | p. 89 |
Episode | p. 94 |
Real Jazz | p. 97 |
In the Quarter | p. 104 |
New Orleans | p. 107 |
Between Trains | p. 110 |
Travel Update | p. 118 |
A Haunting Thing: Plantation Realms | p. 129 |
A Visit to Valcour Aime Plantation | p. 134 |
St. James Parish Plantations | p. 139 |
Magnolia Plantation | p. 147 |
Plantation Life in Southern Louisiana | p. 151 |
"The Shadows" | p. 155 |
Weighing and Paying | p. 168 |
Travel Update | p. 175 |
Telling the Story of Our Lives: The African American Presence | p. 185 |
The Runaway | p. 189 |
Slave Markets | p. 195 |
Fear of a Slave Uprising | p. 200 |
How the Slaves Celebrate Christmas | p. 201 |
The Cheerleaders | p. 207 |
A Certain Meeting South | p. 218 |
Free People of Color | p. 226 |
The Quadroon Ball | p. 229 |
The Quadroon Ballroom | p. 231 |
Travel Update | p. 234 |
Never So Many Travel Accounts: The War | p. 241 |
New Orleans, Just After Secession | p. 244 |
Fleeing the Yankees | p. 246 |
A Very Swarthy and Travel-Stained Warrior | p. 249 |
Christmas at Marksville | p. 258 |
Taking the Oath | p. 261 |
Travel Update | p. 267 |
Land Picturesque and Fertile: Cajun Country | p. 273 |
The Acadian Coast | p. 278 |
Acadians | p. 280 |
A Tour of the Acadian Country | p. 282 |
The Fais Do Do at Mamou | p. 293 |
Cajun Music | p. 300 |
South of the South | p. 305 |
Travel Update | p. 316 |
Red Clay Hills and Piney-Woods: Central and North Louisiana | p. 323 |
The Post of the Ouachita | p. 327 |
Crossing Central Louisiana | p. 331 |
Manner in Which the Survey Was Made | p. 337 |
Nothing But a Little Pissant | p. 350 |
Travel Update | p. 366 |
Where All Things Seem to Dream: Bayou, Marsh, Coast | p. 371 |
A World Apart | p. 375 |
Moss Pickers of the Lafourche Interior | p. 381 |
Dance of the Oyster Luggers | p. 393 |
Cruising the Marshes and Coast | p. 399 |
Grand Isle | p. 405 |
Sailing to Cheniere Caminada | p. 412 |
Travel Update | p. 417 |
Sportsman's Paradise: Wildlife and the Natural Environment | p. 419 |
Ibis-Shooting in Louisiana | p. 424 |
Alligator Hunting | p. 433 |
In the Louisiana Canebrakes | p. 438 |
On the Road with John James Audubon | p. 448 |
Traveling on the Natural and Scenic Streams System | p. 455 |
Travel Update | p. 464 |
Cowboy's Shangri-La: Festivals, Feasts, and Other Diversions | p. 475 |
A Journey Through Mardi Gras | p. 480 |
Country Mardi Gras | p. 496 |
A Cockfight | p. 500 |
Bonfires on the Levee | p. 506 |
An Attempt to Compile the Definitive History of Didee's Restaurant | p. 509 |
Travel Update | p. 518 |
The World of the Spirits | p. 525 |
Holy Week | p. 528 |
Cities of the Dead | p. 532 |
The Element of True African Worship | p. 534 |
A Voodoo Dance | p. 538 |
A Voodoo Initiation | p. 545 |
Travel Update | p. 556 |
Index | p. 567 |
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