Introduction | p. vii |
Travel | p. 1 |
Getting to Madrid | p. 2 |
By Air | p. 2 |
By Train | p. 3 |
By Bus | p. 3 |
By Car | p. 4 |
Border Formalities, Visas | p. 4 |
Getting Around Madrid | p. 5 |
By Metro | p. 6 |
By Bus | p. 6 |
Cercanias (local trains) | p. 6 |
By Taxi | p. 6 |
Hiring a Car | p. 7 |
Tour Operators | p. 7 |
Practical A-Z | p. 9 |
Children's Activities | p. 10 |
Climate and When to Go | p. 11 |
Cybercafes | p. 11 |
Disabled Travellers | p. 12 |
Electricity | p. 12 |
Embassies | p. 12 |
Festivals and Calendar of Events | p. 13 |
Health and Emergency Services | p. 15 |
Lost and Found | p. 16 |
Media | p. 16 |
Money and Banks | p. 16 |
Opening Hours | p. 17 |
Police Business | p. 17 |
Post Offices | p. 17 |
Public Holidays | p. 18 |
Telephones | p. 19 |
Time | p. 19 |
Tipping | p. 20 |
Toilets | p. 20 |
Tourist Information | p. 20 |
History | p. 21 |
Arab Mayrit becomes Madrid | p. 22 |
Madrid Becomes a Capital | p. 23 |
The Horrible Habsburgs | p. 25 |
Bourbons and More Palaces | p. 27 |
A Big Revolution | p. 28 |
Republic and Civil War | p. 30 |
Four Miserable Decades with Franco | p. 32 |
Madrid of the Movida | p. 33 |
Architecture | p. 35 |
Tales of Madrid | p. 39 |
La Villa del Oso y Madrono | p. 40 |
Air, Light and Litter | p. 41 |
Getting Real: the Castizos | p. 42 |
The Ciudad Lineal | p. 44 |
La Movida; Swinging Madrid | p. 45 |
The Spanish Match | p. 46 |
Visions in Silence | p. 47 |
Bullfights | p. 48 |
No Pasaran | p. 50 |
The Neighbourhoods | p. 53 |
Introduction to Madrid's Neighbourhoods | p. 53 |
The Vortex: The Plaza del Puerta del Sol | p. 55 |
Old Madrid | p. 61 |
La Latina, Embajadores, and Lavapies | p. 71 |
Around Plaza Santa Ana: Literature and Bars | p. 81 |
La Paseo del Arte and the Retiro Gardens | p. 91 |
New Madrid: Salamanca and the Castellana | p. 121 |
Royal Madrid | p. 137 |
Madrid of the Bright Lights | p. 149 |
Madrid's Parklands | p. 163 |
Museums | p. 173 |
Art | p. 174 |
Archaeology and Ethnology | p. 175 |
Historical | p. 175 |
Military | p. 175 |
Science and Technology | p. 176 |
One-Offs | p. 176 |
Food and Drink | p. 177 |
Eating Out | p. 178 |
Madrid Specialities | p. 178 |
Tapas Bars | p. 179 |
East of the Castellana | p. 179 |
South of the Puerta del Sol | p. 180 |
North of Puerta del Sol | p. 183 |
Vegetarian | p. 185 |
Open-Air Eating | p. 187 |
Cafes, Bars and Interesting Places to Drink | p. 185 |
Madrid Specialities | p. 185 |
Spanish Wines | p. 186 |
Other Spanish Tipples | p. 187 |
Cafe Society | p. 187 |
Where to Stay | p. 191 |
North of Puerta Del Sol | p. 192 |
East of the Castellana | p. 194 |
South of the Puerta del Sol | p. 196 |
Accommodation Agencies | p. 198 |
Entertainment and Nightlife | p. 199 |
Classical Music and Zarzuela | p. 200 |
Dance | p. 200 |
Film | p. 201 |
Flamenco | p. 202 |
Nightclubs and Bars | p. 202 |
Discos | p. 203 |
Clubs/Bars | p. 204 |
Gay | p. 205 |
Lesbian | p. 205 |
Rock, Blues, Jazz | p. 205 |
Sports and Activities | p. 206 |
Spectator Sports | p. 206 |
Activities | p. 207 |
Theatre | p. 207 |
Classical and Contemporary Theatre | p. 207 |
Alternative Theatre | p. 208 |
Shopping | p. 209 |
Fashion | p. 210 |
Books, Records, News | p. 211 |
Specialities | p. 211 |
Sweet Nuns | p. 212 |
Markets | p. 213 |
Sweet Treats | p. 123 |
Oddments | p. 214 |
Living and Working in Madrid | p. 215 |
Long Term Residence and Finding a Job | p. 216 |
Finding Somewhere to Stay | p. 217 |
Help and Services | p. 217 |
Day Trips from Madrid | p. 219 |
El Escorial | p. 224 |
Valle de los Caidos | p. 228 |
Segovia | p. 229 |
Avila | p. 238 |
Alcala de Henares, Guadalajara and Siguenza | p. 224 |
Aranjuez | p. 249 |
Toledo | p. 251 |
Language (including restaurant vocabulary) | p. 267 |
Chronology | p. 273 |
Further Reading | p. 275 |
Index | p. 277 |
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