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TONY COHAN is the author of On Mexican Time, the memoir Native State (a Los Angeles Times Notable Book of the Year), and the novels Opium and Canary (a New York Times Notable Book of the Year). His articles, essays, and reviews have appeared in the New York Times, the Washington Post, the Los Angeles Times, and Condé Nast Traveler. He divides his time between Mexico and California.
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Excerpted from Mexican Days: Journeys into the Heart of Mexico by Tony Cohan
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