National Capitalisms, Global Production Networks Fashioning the Value Chain in the UK, US, and Germany

by Lane, Christel; Probert, Jocelyn

• ISBN13: 9780199214815
• ISBN10: 0199214816
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2009-05-05
• Publisher: Oxford University Press

Summary

Firms in the clothing industry engage in global sourcing and operate in global markets. Their global production networks have often been subject to scrutiny as the power relationships between buyer firms in developed countries and supplier firms in developing countries raise issues concerned with "fast fashion", the role of brands, labor standards in developing countries, job losses among the most vulnerable workers in Europe and the US, and the growing differentiation within the bloc of developing countries between the least developed and fast developers, such as China and India. This book analyses the way British, American and German firms in the clothing industry (manufacturing and retail) co-ordinate and govern their global production networks/value chains. It offers a multi-level study, concerned with processes of economic interaction between international, regional, and national economic institutions and actors. This combines an analysis of international/regional regulatory systems, global markets and conditions in the developing countries where suppliers are found, with a focus on the recent development of the clothing industry in three western countries. The analysis of firms' global networks focuses on the power relationships between western producers and retailers on the one hand and between buyer firms in developed and supplier firms in developing countries on the other, as well as their impact on labour. Utilising over one hundred interviews in six countries on three continents, it follows the value chain from developed to developing countries and studies the many issues which confront students of globalization at the current time. The study combines theoretical perspectives from economic sociology, political economy and management and seeks to utilise the complementary strengths of the Varieties of Capitalism approach and that of Global Production Networks/Value Chains. It will appeal to advanced students and academics interested in processes of economic globalization and the way firms manage them, as well as to those looking for a study of the clothing industry which combines theoretical depth with broad empirical coverage.

Author Biography

Christel Lane is Professor of Economic Sociology at the University of Cambridge, a Senior Research Associate of the Centre for Business Research, and a Fellow of St. John's College. She has a strong record of publication of comparative industry studies which bridge the social sciences and the field of management. She has contributed to the theoretical study of inter-firm relations, particularly of trust between organizations, as well as to the field of comparative capitalisms/varieties of capitalism.
Jocelyn Probert is Senior Research Fellow at the Centre for Business Research, University of Cambridge. Prior to returning to academic life she worked in Japan as an investment banker and in France as a researcher at the Euro-Asia Centre of INSEAD business school. Her research interests lie in organizational innovations and international business networks.

Table of Contents

Tables and Figures	p. viii
List of Boxes	p. ix
Abbreviations	p. x
Introduction	p. 1
Theoretical Frameworks: The Varieties of Capitalism Approach and the Global Value Chains/Global Production Networks Framework	p. 12
The Clothing Industry in the USA, UK, and Germany	p. 40
Fashion Retail	p. 70
Global and Regional Institutions and the Regulation of Trade	p. 106
Shifting Global Networks and the Development of a New International Hierarchy of Firms and Supplier Countries	p. 129
The Global Production Networks of US. UK, and German firms	p. 154
The Clothing Industries in Supplier Countries: Buyer-Supplier Relations (1)	p. 186
The Clothing Industries in Supplier Countries: Buyer-Supplier Relations (2)	p. 221
The Regulation of Labour Standards/Rights in Supplier Countries: The Role of Firms, Nation States, and International Organizations	p. 256
Conclusions	p. 291
References	p. 301
Index	p. 321
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