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Excerpt
INTRODUCTION AND
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
When asked, I describe myself as a food-passionate being and I realized quite recently that most of my memories are connected in some way to food. At the age of thirteen I dined with my family in the village of Champagne in France. It was a highly memorable event because of the tremendous argument that broke out over dinner. My parents threatened separation and the entire family ended the evening in tears and distress. Before the fracas, my father told my sister and me that the still "blanc de blanc" Champagne we were about to drink would possibly be the finest wine we would ever be offered, and I can still recollect its flavor. I also recall the sweet taste of parsley, butter and garlic that covered the "praire" (clams) that I had for dinner, and I remember what everyone else ate -- but I have no idea what started the argument. This perhaps sums up my relationship to food.
Even my earliest memories are connected in some way to food and I recall many special events by the food that was offered on the occasion. Before he studied the law, my father was a chef at the Trocadero Hotel in Liverpool, England. My mother was the primary cook at home but I remember fondly that on Sundays my father was in charge of the kitchen for dinner, and I also remember the rare occasions he made us toffees and spun us baskets of sugar.
I was born in time for breakfast and took to food with gusto from day one, willing to try almost anything. My culinary interests have taken several turns over the course of my life and what lies between the covers of this book has been influenced by them all.
I was raised in Britain on a typical diet of meat and fresh vegetables, plenty of dairy food, and refined sugar. At fourteen I met Tracy Sohn and her sister Pip. They introduced me to macrobiotics, an Eastern philosophy that describes the order of the universe, and offers ideas such as "you are what you eat." This philosophy felt so right to me I took it home and attempted, in vain, to convince my family it was the only way to live. It was to be the single largest influence on my life so far.
Like so many, I became holier than thou and began a mission to change the world. I felt you were saved if you understood this philosophy and applied it, and damned if you didn't. My family accepted this interest surprisingly well. It was hard for them, particularly my mother, as I took over the fridge and rejected her offerings frequently. I thank my parents for their acceptance and support. With time and experience I am much more grateful and open to all I am offered.
Good fortune and circumstance led me to Sydney in 1982 after a year in Japan. By 1984 I was the proprietor of my first restaurant, Manna, in Rozelle, Sydney, and this experience was a wonderful teacher. It gave me the opportunity to play, experiment and learn with the help of my loyal customers, who offered constant feedback, and Andrzej Gospodarczyk, from whom I bought the business. With great generosity he passed on much of what he knew.
In 1985 I opened Iku Wholefood in Glebe, Sydney, with my business partner Willem Venter. We worked together for six years developing a business founded on the belief that what you put in at the beginning of a meal is reflected absolutely in the customers' satisfaction at the end.
Willem died in 1991. I thank him for sharing his passion for food with me, for his love and laughter and the creative talent that birthed Iku.
After Willem's death, Ken Israel became my business partner, and to Ken I have a deep gratitude for our friendship, his vision and all that he has taught me about business. Iku is now a well-oiled machine with high standards of production and delivery that make me proud to have been its co-creator.
I sold my share of Iku to Ken in 1997 to write, teach, cater and consult on what I call "real food," a style of food that has been born out of thirteen years of vegan food production.
The principle of real food is to combine simplicity, nourishment, taste, texture and beauty in order to provide the most appropriate food for the circumstance. It is flexible and wide-ranging, drawing on many cultural influences, but bound by none in particular. The recipes in Nourish incorporate some animal food as well as fresh fruit and vegetables. The emphasis is on the high quality of ingredients and on the needs of the whole person and the environment. Consequently "real food" nourishes more than the physical being alone.
I would like to acknowledge these people for their contribution to the creation of this book:
My partner, Noek Witzand, and our daughter India, for all their love and support, and for the late nights and early mornings. For all the meals they have tested and all the meals they went without, not forgetting the many hours they have left me alone to create this book.
Jim Wilson at Spiral Foods for his generous support and sponsorship of this project. And also for his commitment to excellence in his business, which is reflected in the products he sells and the service Spiral Foods offers as a distributor of wholefoods in Australia.
My respect and gratitude to Grant Eastwood and Michael Dunne at Macro Wholefoods for their sponsorship of Nourish and for the tenacious spirit that has assisted them to create Sydney's finest wholefood outlets. I also acknowledge the long business relationship we have shared.
Yolande Gray for her desire to design this book, for her ability to hold the big picture and make it happen and for the delight I have had in working with her.
To my agent, David Holland, for his trust and tenacious spirit. Publisher Julie Stanton for her belief in this project that has made it a reality. Susan Tomnay and Brigitta Doyle for their careful editing of the manuscript. Geoff Lung for his patience, grace and expertise in taking the photographs. Megan Brown and Mindy Byrne for their willing assistance with the photo shoot and for making it so much fun. Thanks also to Megan for the prawn oil recipe.
I would like to thank Cecille Weldon for the name of this book, her invaluable business advice since I moved on from Iku, her time, her friendship, her oven and the endless meals eaten to test recipes.
Airdre Grant, macrobiotic counselor, cooking teacher and dear friend, for helping me to edit the recipes and for her belief in me and this project.
This book has been for many years a promise to myself and to the devoted customers of Iku Wholefood. To the staff of Iku Wholefood, present and past, and all the customers, I thank you for all the lessons you helped me to learn and for your support and encouragement of the business and of me, through good times and bad.
Nicholas Grey Imeson Coffil, without whom I would still be living in a far-off London town, thank you for starting me off in this land I love so much.
I also acknowledge these people who have taught me so much more about my passion: Siraporn, David Sexton, Michael Doherty, Denis Cullity, Jennifer Byrne, Nancy Byrne, John Downes, Martin Kenrick, Merilee Bennett, Deborah Shaw, Karen Burn, Eben Venter, Dominic Angelucci, Lee Anne Carson, Deborah Preston, Nicholaas van Schalkwvyk, Blair Singer, Robert and Kim Kiyosaki.
Most of the recipes in this collection are easy to make and look appealing without a lot of fuss. Many are made from well-known ingredients and some may introduce you to less well-known items. A glossary (page 33) will explain these new items, their origins and some of their uses.
Where a less well-known ingredient is used, I have tried to include several recipes with that ingredient so it's not left to languish in your cupboards. These recipes will also demonstrate the different ways one ingredient may be used.
I am the sort of cook who works on intuition. I have had cooking disasters, but they have been relatively few because of some simple rules I impose on myself:
- Consider the season and use those ingredients that are currently bountiful.
- Consider the needs of each person to be fed.
- Use the best-quality ingredients affordable at the time.
- Buy from trusted sources; ask questions about the produce and its origins.
- Read labels to determine ingredients and origins.
- Try to avoid products with preservatives, additives and synthetic coloring agents and those with commercial salt and refined sugar.
- Be open to trying almost anything.
- Respect the origin of ingredients, combining those that come from similar climates if not the same place.
- When in doubt keep it simple and do as little as possible to the ingredients.
- Be grateful for the produce you work with. I believe this contributes to your cooking and eating enjoyment.
- Try to create every meal as a special occasion in some way.
There are enormous variables in cooking and I see it as an alchemic art form rather than a domestic science. Please adapt these recipes to suit your needs. Regard the recipes as beginnings. Once you learn the style you can then adapt that style to suit the ingredients you have on hand. Some ingredients are a perfect match for others, which I hope you will discover as you explore these recipes.
PILAU RICE
serves 5
2 tablespoons light olive oil or ghee
1 onion, finely diced
2 cups (12 oz/400 g) basmati rice, cleaned, washed and drained well, and left 30 minutes to dry
2 green cardamom pods, bruised
1 whole clove
1 stick cinnamon
4 cups (1 L) stock
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
a few saffron threads (optional)
heat a heavy pan that has a well-fitting lid
add the oil or ghee
sauté the onion until it is golden brown
pour in the rice and add the spices
stir gently to coat each grain with oil or ghee
sauté for 3 minutes, stirring gently
in a separate pan bring the stock and sea salt to a simmer
add the simmering stock to the rice and cover immediately with the lid
turn the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes
turn off the flame and leave, covered, for 5 minutes
uncover and leave 5 minutes more to allow the steam to escape
fluff with a metal fork to prevent breaking the grains
THAI JASMINE RICE
1 cup (6 1/2 oz/200 g) rice to l 1/2 cups (12 fl oz/375 ml) water or stock
1 pinch salt per cup rice
boil rice for 20 minutes
RED RICE
1 cup (6 1/2 oz/200 g) rice to 1 3/4 cups (14 fl oz/450 ml) water or stock
boil rice for 40 minutes
CRUSTY SESAME SOURDOUGH LOAF
John Downes, the baker, insists sourdough breads should be left at least 12 hours before being eaten, but who do you know that can delay gratification so long
Makes 1 (1 1/2 lb/750 g) loaf
Season: autumn/winter
3 1/3 cups (1 lb/500 g) whole-wheat flour
3 1/2 oz (100 g) sesame seeds, lightly toasted
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) filtered water
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) leaven (page 63)
olive oil
combine the flour and seeds in a large clean bowl
mix the salt and water together to ensure even distribution
pour the leaven into the flour and mix with your hands
knead the mix, slowly adding the saltwater
when a ball has formed, turn onto a floured board
continue to knead to the texture of an earlobe when squeezed
rest the dough and your arms for 10 minutes
brush a heavy 2-lb (1-kg) bread pan with the olive oil
roll the dough out to the length of the pan
place the dough with seam side down in the pan
oil the top of the loaf
leave to rise, covered with a damp cloth, for 4 to 8 hours (the warmer the spot, the faster the rise and the stronger the flavor)
slow rising in a cool spot produces a sweeter loaf
preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C)
put the uncovered pan in the middle of the oven
bake for approximately 45 minutes (the loaf should look golden and sound hollow when the base is tapped)
allow to cool on a wire rack
STAR ANISE AND ALMOND STEAMED SOURDOUGH BUNS
Makes 16 buns
Season: spring/summer
one recipe sesame sourdough bread dough (page 64), omitting the sesame seeds
FILLING
7 1/2 teaspoons corn oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 1/2 inches fresh ginger, very finely sliced
1 bunch bok choy, white part cut into 1/4-in (0.5-cm) pieces, leaves cut into 1/2-in (1-cm) pieces, keep white and green parts separate
8 oz (250 g) fresh or canned water chestnuts, roughly chopped (peel if fresh)
2 tablespoons star anise tamari (page 55)
2 tablespoons ketcap manis
2 heaping teaspoons kudzu or cornstarch (cornflour), mixed with 2 tablespoons cold water
4 oz (125 g) dry-roasted almonds, roughly chopped
roll the dough into a long log, and cut into 16 even pieces
set these aside on a floured board covered with a damp cloth
heat a heavy frying pan
add the oil and sauté the garlic and ginger for 2 minutes
stir in the white of the bok choy with the water chestnuts
cook 3 minutes
add the bok choy leaves
stir in the tamari and ketcap manis; cook 3 minutes
the mixture will release liquid at this point
stir in the kudzu or cornstarch slurry
toss in the almonds, stir and set aside to cool a little
pull one piece of dough at a time into a circle 1 1/2 in (4 cm) in diameter
place one-sixteenth of the filling in the center
pull up the edges of dough to join above the center and twist to close
pinch off any excess dough
sit the buns on a small square of parchment paper inside a bamboo or metal steamer
leave 1/4 in (0.5 cm) between each one to allow them to rise
cover with a damp cloth and leave to rise until kissing each other
cover the steamer and place over a pot of cold water
slowly bring to a boil
steam for 15 minutes
spray the buns with a fine mist of water (this creates a glaze)
continue to steam for 5 more minutes
SPRING MISO SOUP
Vary this recipe by using whatever green spring vegetables you like. Try it with white miso for a lighter, sweeter taste. Always cook miso gently. The enzymes it contains, beneficial to good digestion, are assisted by gentle heat but are denatured by boiling. It is said that adding a pungent flavor such as ginger, lemon or green onion (scallion) stems to miso soup just before serving will activate the enzymes, making them more beneficial.
Serves 5 to 6
Season: spring
4 green onions (scallions)
1/2 bunch bok choy
3 1/2 teaspoons corn oil
1-in (2.5-cm) fresh ginger, very finely sliced.
6-in (15-cm) stick kombu, soaked in water to cover for 30 minutes
6 cups (1.5 L) stock
3 1/4 oz (100 g) silken tofu, cut into small cubes
4 tablespoons brown rice (gen mai) miso
chop green onions into rounds, keeping the white and green parts separate
cut the bok choy, keeping the white and green parts separate
heat a pan and add the oil
sauté , the white of onions, then the ginger
add the white of bok choy
drain and finely slice the kombu; combine the soaking water with stock
add the kombu and stock to the pan
simmer , uncovered, for 20 minutes
turn heat to low and add the silken tofu
mix the miso to a paste using a little of the soup
add the miso and the greens from the onions and bok choy
cook for 5 minutes; do not boil
serve with more ginger if desired
ROAST GARLIC AND ZUCCHINI SOUP
If you prefer, make this soup without garlic. Garlic has a dominant flavor that is too strong for some people.
10 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 large zucchini, sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
2 onions, roughly chopped
1/2 leek, sliced
1 large potato, chopped
2 tablespoons toasted walnuts
2 teaspoons umeboshi vinegar
preheat oven to 400°F (200°C)
rub the garlic cloves and zucchini with 1 tablespoon olive oil and a pinch of salt
place them on a baking sheet and roast for approximately 30 minutes, being careful not to burn them
heat a large pan and pour in the remaining oil
sauté , the onions and leek until both are soft and well cooked
stir in the potato and the rest of the salt
pour in the stock and simmer until the potatoes are soft
squeeze the garlic pulp out of the skins
discard the garlic skins
blend the garlic pulp and zucchini with the walnuts and umeboshi vinegar
add the potatoes and stock to the blender
continue to blend thoroughly
serve hot with crusty bread
Copyright © 1999 Holly Davis. All rights reserved.
