Patternmaking for Fashion Design

by Armstrong, Helen Joseph

• ISBN13: 9780131112117
• ISBN10: 0131112112
• Edition: 4th
• Format: Hardcover w/Disk
• Copyright: 2010-01-01
• Publisher: Pearson College Div

Summary

Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this hallmark book offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principlesdart manipulation, added fullness, and contouringit provides all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity.Sewing guides included for the pleated trouser (with pattern layout), belt/loops, pockets, and zipper; the jean pant with pockets, countour belt, and fly front; and the gusset. Updated jacket foundation draft includes fabric preparation, interfacing, chest piece, tape control, and shoulder pads. Pant draftsTrouser draft including pocket, waistband, and loop; dungaree foundation draft; grunge pant draft; and three jean waistline variations including pocket and sewing instruction. Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns. Unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments.For anyone developing their patternmaking skills.

Table of Contents

Preface	xix
Acknowledgments	xxi
The Workroom
Patternmaking Tools	2	(3)
Functions of Patternmaking Tools	4	(1)
Pattern Paper	5	(1)
Patternmaking Terms	5	(1)
Pattern Production Terms	6	(1)
The Way We Were	7	(1)
Apparel Product Development	8	(2)
Computer Companies	8	(1)
Body Scanning	8	(1)
3-D Modeling	8	(1)
Pattern Development Systems	9	(1)
Pattern Input---Digitizer	9	(1)
Digital Printing by Lectra	9	(1)
Cost Sheet	10	(1)
Pattern Chart	11	(1)
Design Specifications Sheet	12	(1)
Dart	13	(1)
Terminology	13	(1)
Blending, Trueing, and Equalizing	13	(1)
Styleline Guides	14	(1)
Fabric Terms	15	(2)
Pattern Grainline	17	(1)
Balance Line Terms	18	(1)
Special Information	19	(3)
Model Form and Measurements
Who is the Standard Ideal Figure?	22	(2)
Do Perfect Ratio Measurements Mean Perfect Proportions?	22	(1)
The Perfect Figure (Red Leotard) Versus the Rest of Us	23	(1)
Head Height---a Measuring Device for Comparison	23	(1)
Pattern Industry Standards	24	(1)
Department Store Standards	24	(1)
Other Attempts at Standardization	24	(1)
Astm Standards	24	(1)
Landmark Terms	25	(1)
Symbol Key	25	(1)
Measuring the Form	26	(1)
Preparing the Form for Measuring	26	(1)
Taking Measurements	27	(1)
Circumference Measurements	27	(1)
Horizontal Balance Line (Hbl)	27	(1)
Horizontal Measurements	28	(1)
Front	28	(1)
Back	28	(1)
Vertical Measurements	29	(1)
Front and Back	29	(1)
Strap Measurements	29	(1)
Standard Measurement Chart	30	(2)
Drafting the Basic Pattern Set
The Basic Dress Foundation	32	(2)
Measurement	32	(1)
Creating Basic Patterns	33	(1)
Pattern Shapes Described	33	(1)
Why Darts?	33	(1)
Front Bodice Draft	34	(2)
Back Bodice Draft	36	(3)
Increasing and Decreasing Bust Cup	38	(1)
Fitting the Bodice	39	(1)
Perfect Alignment	39	(1)
Imperfect Alignment	39	(1)
Fitting the Neckline	40	(1)
Fitting the Armhole	40	(2)
Skirt Draft	42	(5)
Skirt Front and Back	42	(2)
Skirt Back (for Suits and Separates)	44	(1)
Fitting the Skirt	45	(1)
Fitting Adjustments Notes	46	(1)
Preparing Patterns for Test Fit	47	(2)
Matching Joining Seams	47	(2)
The Basic Sleeve	49	(1)
Sleeve Terminology	49	(1)
Sleeve Cap Ease	50	(1)
Armhole Measurement	50	(1)
Sleeve Measurement Chart	50	(1)
Sleeve Draft	51	(2)
Adjusting Sleeve to Armhole of Bodice	53	(6)
Determining Cap Ease	53	(2)
Adjusting the Armhole to Accommodate Cap Ease	55	(1)
Increase or Decrease the Width of the Biceps	56	(1)
Setting the Sleeve into the Armhole	57	(1)
Evaluate the Hang and Fit of the Sleeve	57	(2)
Increase or Decrease Cap Ease	59	(1)
Seamless Working Patterns	59	(1)
Completing the Pattern	60	(4)
Pattern Information	60	(1)
Seam Allowance	60	(1)
Basic Pattern Set---Seamed	61	(3)
Dart Manipulation (Principle #1)
Introduction	64	(1)
Working Patterns	64	(1)
Patternmaking Techniques	64	(1)
Design Analysis and the Three Major Patternmaking Principles	64	(1)
Patternmaking Terms	65	(1)
Test Fit	65	(1)
Dart Manipulation	66	(4)
Principle #1: Introduction to Design Patterns	66	(1)
Applying Dart Manipulation---Principle #1	66	(1)
Patternmaking Techniques	66	(1)
Charting Dart Location	67	(1)
More About Darts	68	(1)
Completing the Dart	68	(2)
Single-Dart Series---Slash-Spread Technique	70	(5)
The Process	70	(1)
Center Front Waist Dart	70	(2)
Center Front Neck Dart	72	(1)
Mid-Shoulder Dart	73	(1)
French Dart	74	(1)
Single-Dart Series---Pivotal-Transfer Technique	75	(5)
Mid-Neck Dart	75	(2)
Side Dart	77	(1)
Mid-Armhole Dart	78	(1)
Shoulder-Tip Dart	79	(1)
The Shoulder Dart	80	(1)
The Multidispersion Working Pattern for Use When Shoulder Dart Not Required	80	(1)
The Back Neck Dart	81	(1)
Excess Transferred to Armhole	81	(1)
Self-Evaluation Test	82	(3)
Consistency of Dart Angle	84	(1)
Proof of Principle #1	84	(1)
Two-Dart Series---Slash-Spread Technique	85	(4)
Waist and Side Dart	85	(2)
Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart	87	(1)
Mid-Armhole and Waist Dart	88	(1)
Two-Dart Series---Pivotal-Transfer Technique	89	(3)
Mid-Neck and Waist Dart	89	(1)
Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart	90	(1)
Center Front Neck and Waist Dart	91	(1)
Self-Evaluation Test	92	(2)
Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers)
Introduction	94	(1)
Tuck-Dart	95	(1)
Pleat	95	(1)
Flare	95	(1)
Gathers	96	(2)
Slash-Spread Technique	96	(1)
Pivotal-Transfer Technique	97	(1)
Dart Clusters and Dart Equivalents	98	(5)
Waist Cluster	98	(1)
Dart Cluster	99	(1)
Tuck-Dart Cluster	100	(1)
Pleat Cluster	100	(1)
Shoulder Cluster	101	(1)
Center Front Bust Cluster	102	(1)
Graduated and Radiating Darts	103	(2)
Graduated Darts	103	(1)
Radiating Darts	104	(1)
Parallel Darts	105	(4)
Parallel French Darts	105	(1)
Parallel Darts at Neck	106	(1)
Parallel Darts---Cape Effect	107	(1)
Parallel Dart Design Variations	108	(1)
Asymmetric Darts	109	(4)
Asymmetric Radiating Darts	109	(2)
Asymmetric Curved Darts	111	(1)
Asymmetric Dart Variations	112	(1)
Intersecting Darts	113	(2)
Intersecting Dart to Waist	113	(1)
Intersecting Dart with Gathers	114	(1)
Intersecting Dart Design Variations	115	(3)
Stylelines
Introduction	118	(1)
Classic Princess Styleline	118	(4)
Design Analysis	118	(3)
Classic Princess Styleline Variations	121	(1)
Armhole Princess Styleline	122	(3)
Armhole Princess Styleline Variations	124	(1)
Panel Styleline	125	(5)
Panel Styleline Variations	127	(3)
Added Fullness (Principle #2)
Added Fullness: Principle #2	130	(8)
Three Types of Added Fullness	130	(1)
Identifying Added Fullness	131	(1)
Fullness Along Princess Line	132	(1)
Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust	133	(1)
Added Fullness to a Dart Leg	134	(1)
Gathers on a Style Dart	135	(1)
Fullness Around Neck Band	136	(1)
Added Fullness Design Variations	137	(1)
Blouson Foundation	138	(4)
Modified Blouson	139	(1)
Blouson with Increased Fullness	140	(2)
Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks
Yokes for Bodice	142	(4)
Basic Front Yoke---Slash and Spread	142	(1)
Basic Back Yoke---Pivotal and Transfer	143	(1)
Back Yoke with Inverted Box Pleat	144	(1)
Back Yoke with Added Fullness/Gathers	144	(1)
Back Yoke with Action Pleat	145	(1)
Yoke Design Variations	145	(1)
Flanges	146	(6)
Dart Flange	146	(1)
Flange to Waist	147	(2)
Flange Inset	149	(2)
Flange Design Variations	151	(1)
Pleat Tucks and Pin Tucks	152	(4)
Pleat Tucks	152	(2)
Pin Tucks	154	(2)
Contouring (Principle #3)
Contouring: Principle #3	156	(2)
Contour Designs	156	(1)
Figure Versus Basic Garment	157	(1)
Fitting Problems	157	(1)
The Contour Guide Patterns	158	(8)
Preparing the Contour Guide Patterns	158	(1)
Measure Depth of the Hollow Areas and Chart the Patterns	159	(1)
Guideline 1---Cutout Necklines	159	(1)
Guideline 2---Cutout Armholes	159	(1)
Guideline 3---Armhole Ease	160	(1)
Guideline 4---Empire Styleline	160	(1)
Guideline 5---Contour Between the Busts	161	(1)
Guideline 6---Strapless Designs	161	(1)
Shoulder Slope and Side Ease	162	(1)
Guideline 7---Back	162	(1)
How to Use the Contour Guide Patterns	163	(3)
The Classic Empire	166	(4)
Empire with Shirred Midriff	168	(2)
Surplice (or Wrap) Designs	170	(2)
Pattern for Left Side	171	(1)
Pattern for Right Side	171	(1)
Off-Shoulder Designs	172	(2)
Gathered Shoulder	172	(2)
Halters	174	(2)
V-Neck Halter	174	(2)
Collars
Introduction	176	(1)
Collar Terms	176	(1)
Collar Stand and Roll Types	177	(1)
Collar Classifications	177	(1)
Basic Shirt Collar Foundation	178	(4)
Straight Collar	178	(1)
Undercollar	179	(1)
Folded Basic Collar	180	(1)
Collar Variations	180	(1)
Fit Problems of the Collar	181	(1)
Peter Pan Collars	182	(3)
Principle	182	(1)
Relationship of the Collar's Stand, Width, and Neckline	182	(1)
Three Basic Peter Pan Collars	182	(1)
Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll)	183	(1)
Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll)	184	(1)
Peter Pan with Flat-Roll	184	(1)
Sailor Collar	185	(3)
Basic Sailor Collar	185	(2)
Sailor with Inset	187	(1)
Collars with Deep, Open Necklines	188	(1)
Collar for V-Neck	188	(1)
Collar for Stylized Neckline	188	(1)
Mandarin Collar	189	(2)
Basic Mandarin---Design 1	189	(1)
Mandarin Collar Variations	190	(1)
Collar with Stand	191	(1)
Wide Collar and Stand	192	(1)
Collar and Stand Away from the Basic Neckline	193	(1)
All-in-One Collar and Stand	194	(1)
Roll Collars	195	(2)
Turtle Neck	195	(1)
Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck	196	(1)
Collar Design Variations	197	(3)
Built-Up Necklines
Built-Up Necklines	200	(4)
Stovepipe Neckline	200	(2)
Built-Up Bateau Neckline	202	(2)
Inset Bands	204	(4)
Rounded Inset Band	204	(1)
Inset Band Variations	205	(3)
Cowls
Cowls	208	(10)
Types of Cowls	208	(1)
Nature of the Bias Cut	209	(1)
Twisting	209	(1)
Making Patterns for Bias-Cut Cowls	209	(1)
Finding True Bias	210	(1)
Fitting the Cowl Drape	210	(1)
Correcting the Pattern	210	(1)
High Relaxed Cowl	211	(2)
Mid-Depth Cowl	213	(2)
Low Cowl	215	(1)
Deep Cowl	216	(2)
Back Cowls	218	(3)
High-Back Cowl	218	(2)
Mid-Back Cowl	220	(1)
Low-Back Cowl	220	(1)
One-Piece Armhole Cowls	221	(2)
Pleated Cowls	223	(2)
Pleated Shoulder Cowl	223	(2)
Exaggerated Cowls	225	(2)
High Exaggerated Cowl	225	(2)
Inset Cowls	227	(3)
V-Inset Cowl	227	(3)
Skirts/Circles and Cascades
Introduction	230	(1)
Skirt Lengths	230	(1)
Four Skirt Foundations	231	(1)
Straight or Rectangular Shape (Basic Skirt)	231	(1)
A-Shape or Triangular	231	(1)
Pegged or Inverted Triangle	231	(1)
Bell-Shape	231	(1)
Flexibility of Skirt Darts	232	(1)
Low-Waist Skirts	233	(1)
High-Waist Skirts	234	(1)
Preparing the Skirt	234	(1)
Preparing Zipper and Waistband	235	(1)
Basic Waistband	236	(2)
Stitching Guide	237	(1)
Flared Skirts	238	(8)
A-Line Flared Skirt	238	(2)
Basic Flared Skirt	240	(2)
One-Dart Skirt Foundation	242	(1)
Flared Skirt Based on One-Dart Pattern	243	(1)
Added Flare Skirt	244	(2)
Skirts with Gathered Waistlines	246	(4)
Computing for Gathers	246	(1)
Flared Skirt with Gathered Waist	246	(1)
Gathered Dirndl Skirt	247	(1)
Clinging Hipline with Flare Skirt---the Slinky Skirt	248	(2)
Gored Skirts	250	(13)
4-Gore Flared Skirt	250	(1)
6-Gore and 8-Gore Skirt	251	(3)
8-Gore Pleated Skirt	254	(3)
12-Gore Skirt	257	(2)
12-Gore Graduated Flare	259	(2)
Zigzag 12-Gore Skirt	261	(2)
Pegged Skirt with Pleats	263	(1)
Draped Wrap Skirt with a Cascade	264	(4)
Asymmetric Radiating Gathers	266	(2)
Skirts with Yokes	268	(4)
Yoke with Gathered Skirt	268	(2)
Diagonal Yoke with Flared Skirt	270	(2)
Tiers	272	(5)
Terms	272	(1)
Attached Tiers	272	(2)
Separated Tiers	274	(1)
Peplums	274	(3)
Pleats	277	(8)
Types of Pleats	277	(1)
Pleat Terminology	278	(1)
Kick Pleats	278	(2)
All-Around Pleated Skirt	280	(2)
Inverted Box-Pleated Skirt	282	(3)
Godets	285	(2)
Basic Godet	285	(1)
Godet Variations	286	(1)
Wrap Skirt	287	(2)
Wrap Skirt with Side Seam	287	(1)
All-in-One Wrap Skirt	288	(1)
Circles, Peplums, and Cascades	289	(11)
Terminology	290	(1)
Circle Within a Circle	290	(1)
Parts of a Circle	290	(1)
Radius Chart for Circle Skirts and Cascades	291	(1)
Full-Circle Skirt	292	(3)
Grainline Placement Relative to the Fall of the Flare	295	(1)
Hemline Adjustments	295	(1)
Three-Quarter Circle Skirt	296	(1)
Half-Circle Skirt	297	(1)
Quarter-Circle Skirt	298	(1)
Two Circles at Waist (Not Illustrated)	299	(1)
Gathered Circular Skirt (Not Illustrated)	299	(1)
Skirts with Uneven Hemlines	300	(3)
Circular Skirt with Handkerchief Hem	300	(1)
Circular Skirt with Graduated-Length Hemline	301	(2)
Skirt Design Variations	303	(3)
Sleeves
Introduction	306	(2)
Set-in Sleeve	306	(1)
Terminology	307	(1)
Elbow Dart Variations	307	(1)
Shoulder Pads	308	(1)
Sleeve Cuffs	308	(4)
Basic Shirt Cuff	309	(1)
Self-Faced Cuff	309	(1)
French Cuff (Used with Cufflinks)	309	(1)
Contoured Cuff	310	(1)
Roll-Up Cuff	311	(1)
Cap Sleeves	312	(1)
Jutting Cap	312	(1)
Dartless Sleeve Pattern	313	(1)
Modifying Armhole to Reduce Sleeve Cap Ease	314	(1)
Options	314	(1)
Puff Sleeves	314	(3)
Fullness at Hem	315	(1)
Fullness at Cap	316	(1)
Fullness at Hem and Cap	316	(1)
Circular Hemline Sleeves	317	(2)
Half-Circle Sleeves	317	(1)
Bell Sleeves	318	(1)
Petal Sleeves	319	(2)
Plain Petal---Design 1	319	(1)
Gathered Petal	320	(1)
Flared Petal	320	(1)
Lantern Sleeves	321	(3)
Long Lantern Sleeve---Design 1	321	(2)
Short Lantern Sleeve---Design 2	323	(1)
Sleeves with Extended Caps	324	(4)
Darted Cap	324	(1)
Crescent-Shaped, Extended Cap	325	(1)
Gathered Crescent Sleeve	326	(1)
Sleeve with Vertical Pleat	327	(1)
Leg-of-Mutton Sleeves	328	(1)
Cowl Sleeves	329	(1)
Wedding Sleeves	330	(1)
Sleeve Variations with Patterns	331	(1)
Sleeves with Lowered Armhole	332	(1)
Basic Bishop Sleeves	333	(2)
Bishop Sleeve Draft	333	(1)
Pivotal-Transfer Method in Developing the Bishop Sleeve	334	(1)
Exaggerated Bishop Sleeve	335	(3)
Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes
Introduction to Sleeve-Bodice Combinations	338	(1)
Basic Kimono	339	(3)
Kimono Draft	339	(2)
Short-Sleeve Kimono	341	(1)
Basic Dolman	342	(1)
One-Piece Combinations	343	(2)
Kimono with Shoulderline Seam	343	(1)
Kimono without Overarm Seam	344	(1)
Kimono Torso Foundation	345	(2)
Kimono Dress	347	(1)
Caftan---Design 3	348	(1)
Kimono with Gussets	349	(4)
Raglan Sleeve	353	(5)
One-Piece Raglan	357	(1)
Raglan Design and Variations	358	(3)
Armhole Princess	358	(1)
Yoke with Flare Sleeve	359	(1)
Raglan Drop Shoulder	360	(1)
Drop Shoulder	361	(3)
Drop Shoulder Draft	361	(2)
Drop Shoulder Variations	363	(1)
Designs Based on Raglan Foundation	363	(1)
Exaggerated Armholes	364	(4)
Deep-Cut Square Armhole	364	(4)
Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings
Buttons and Buttonholes	368	(4)
Basic Types of Buttons	369	(1)
Types of Buttonholes	369	(1)
Button/Buttonhole Extension	369	(1)
Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide	370	(2)
Facings	372	(6)
Stitched Facings	372	(1)
Fold-Back Facings	372	(1)
Common Facings	372	(1)
Facings for Cutout Necklines and Armholes	373	(5)
Plackets and Pockets
Plackets	378	(5)
Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One	378	(2)
Wing Collar Placket	380	(2)
Slit Opening with Placket	382	(1)
Pockets	383	(11)
Pocket Classification	383	(1)
Outside Pockets	383	(2)
Inserted Seam Pocket	385	(1)
Jean Pocket	386	(1)
Pocket in-One with the Side Seam	387	(1)
Accordion Pocket	388	(2)
Stylized Outside Pocket	390	(1)
Lift-Away Pocket	390	(1)
Pocket with Hidden Side Seam	391	(3)
Dresses Without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation)
Torso Foundation	394	(5)
Torso Draft	394	(4)
Contour Guideline	398	(1)
Dress Categories	399	(1)
The Three Basic Dress Foundations	399	(2)
Knit Dress Designs	399	(1)
Shirtmaker Dresses	399	(1)
The Sheath (Fitted Silhouette)	400	(1)
The Box-Fitted Silhouette	400	(1)
The Shift (Semi-Fitted Silhouette)	400	(1)
Princess-Line Foundation	401	(3)
A-Line Princess	402	(2)
Panel Dress Foundation	404	(2)
Empire Foundation	406	(2)
Tent Foundation	408	(2)
Jumper	410	(1)
Special Patternmaking Problems	411	(5)
Gathers Crossing Dart Areas	411	(1)
Stylelines Crossing Dart Areas	412	(1)
Stylized One-Piece Front	413	(3)
Strapless Foundation and Interconstruction
Introduction	416	(1)
Three Strapless Foundations	416	(1)
Strapless Princess Bodice Foundations 1 and 2	417	(2)
Princess with Gathered Panels	419	(1)
Bra-Top Torso Foundation	420	(2)
Princess Torso Foundation	422	(2)
Fitting Problems and Solutions	424	(2)
Construction Support for Strapless Garments	426	(8)
Interconstruction---Light and Heavy Weight	427	(1)
Types of Boning	427	(1)
Preparing Patterns for the Undersupport	428	(6)
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses
Introduction	434	(1)
Nature of Bias-Cut Fabric	434	(1)
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Garments	434	(1)
Two Methods for Reducing Bias Stretch	434	(1)
Fabric Selections for Bias-Cut Garments	434	(1)
Slip Dress with a Slinky Skirt	435	(6)
Twist Bodice with a Slinky Skirt	441	(3)
All-in-One Bias Dresses	444	(2)
Design Variations	446	(2)
Shirts
Shirt and Blouse Foundations	448	(12)
Three Shirt and Blouse Foundations	449	(1)
Basic Shirt and Blouse Draft	450	(1)
Basic Shirt Sleeve Foundation	451	(1)
Yoke Shirt	452	(2)
Sleeve Hemline Options	454	(1)
Closure Options	455	(1)
One-Piece Sleeve Placket	456	(1)
Shirt Facing and Band Variations	457	(2)
Hidden Button/Buttonhole Closure	459	(1)
Casual Shirt and Sleeve Foundation	460	(3)
Casual Shirt Draft	460	(2)
Oversizing the Shirt	462	(1)
Peasant Blouse	463	(3)
Jackets and Coats
Jacket and Coat Foundations	466	(3)
Two Jacket Foundations	466	(1)
Jacket and Coat Terms	466	(1)
Inner Support---Terms and Definitions	467	(1)
Basic Jacket and Coat Foundations	468	(1)
The Jacket and Coat Sleeves	469	(5)
Cap Ease	469	(1)
Grading the Jacket/Coat Sleeves	470	(2)
Tailored Two-Piece Sleeve	472	(2)
Collar/Lapel Designs	474	(8)
Basic Notch Collar/Lapel	474	(4)
Low-Notch Lapel	478	(2)
Portrait Collar and Lapel	480	(2)
Double-Breasted Jacket	482	(2)
Design Variations	483	(1)
Shawl Foundation	484	(4)
Shawl Collar Variations	485	(1)
Wide Shawl Collars	486	(1)
Shawl Collar with Separated Undercollar and Facing	487	(1)
Style Jacket	488	(4)
Mannish Jacket Foundation	492	(11)
Mannish Jacket Draft	492	(1)
One-Piece Mannish Sleeve	493	(2)
Two-Piece Mannish Sleeve	495	(2)
Collar and Lapel Styles for the Mannish Jacket	497	(3)
Transferring Dart to Neckline	500	(1)
One-Piece Mannish Jacket Foundation	500	(1)
The Wrap-Around Style	501	(1)
The Three Panel Style	502	(1)
Jacket Construction	503	(1)
Preparing Fabric	503	(1)
Estimating Yardage	503	(1)
Supplies Needed	503	(1)
Patterns for Three Panel Style	504	(3)
Preparing Lining Patterns	505	(1)
Marking Interface Locations	506	(1)
Jacket and Lining Seam Allowance	507	(1)
Color Codes	507	(1)
Pattern Information	507	(1)
Applying Interfacing	508	(2)
Assembling the Jacket	510	(8)
Evaluating the Fit of the Jacket	518	(2)
Capes and Hoods
Capes	520	(4)
A-Line Cape Foundation	520	(2)
Flared Cape Foundation	522	(2)
Hoods	524	(8)
How to Measure for Hood Draft	524	(1)
Contoured Hood Foundation	524	(4)
Contoured Hood Design	528	(1)
Loose Hood Foundation	529	(3)
Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs
Introduction	532	(1)
Knock-Off Methods	532	(1)
T-Tops	532	(1)
Shirt Types	533	(2)
Pant Types	535	(3)
Jacket Copy	538	(6)
Pants
Pants Bifurcated---What's That?	544	(1)
The Leg Relative to the Pant	545	(1)
Pant Terminology	545	(1)
Analysis of the Pant Foundations	546	(1)
Summary of the Pant Foundations	547	(1)
Measuring for the Pant Draft	548	(2)
Culotte---Foundation 1	550	(2)
Culotte Draft	550	(2)
Trouser---Foundation 2 (For Women and Men)	552	(4)
Slack---Foundation 3 (For Women and Men)	556	(1)
Jean---Foundation 4 (For Women and Men)	557	(5)
Dartless Jean Pant	560	(1)
Variations of the Jean Fit	561	(1)
Completing the Pant Pattern	562	(2)
How to Walk and True the Pant Patterns	562	(1)
Seam Allowance	563	(1)
Pant Designs	564	(14)
Box-Pleated Culotte	564	(1)
Culottes with Long, Wide-Sweeping Hemlines	565	(1)
Pleated Trouser (Women and Men)	566	(2)
Pocket Draft for Trouser	568	(1)
Cutting the Trouser Patterns	569	(2)
Finishing Methods	571	(1)
Sewing Instructions for the Pocket	572	(2)
Attaching the Zipper	574	(2)
Belt Loops	576	(1)
Waist Band	577	(1)
The Dungarees Foundation	578	(15)
The Foundation Draft	578	(1)
Dungarees Chic	579	(2)
Baggy Pant (for Women and Men)	581	(1)
Hip Hop Pant	582	(1)
Pull-On Pant with Self-Casing	583	(1)
High-Waist Pant (for Women and Men)	584	(1)
Jean with V-Yoke (for Women and Men)	585	(5)
Contour Pant with Creaseline Flare	590	(1)
Pant with Flared Leg (for Women and Men)	591	(1)
Pant with Curved Hemline	591	(1)
Clown Pant	592	(1)
Pant Derivatives	593	(5)
Names and Terms	593	(1)
Developing Pant Derivatives	594	(1)
Short-Shorts	594	(1)
Short, Jamaica, and Bermuda Pants	595	(1)
Pedal-Pushers, Toreador Pants, and Capri Pants	596	(1)
Design Variations	597	(1)
Jumpsuit Foundations	598	(4)
Trouser/Slack Jumpsuit Foundations	598	(1)
Jean Jumpsuit Foundation	599	(1)
Styled Jumpsuit	600	(1)
Great Coverall	601	(1)
Pant Fit Problems/Corrections	602	(8)
Model #1 Proper Stance	602	(1)
Model #2 Fit Problems	602	(1)
Analyzing the Fit of the Pant	602	(8)
Knits---Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
Introduction	610	(1)
Stretch and Recovery Factor	610	(1)
Stretch Factor	610	(1)
Recovery Factor	610	(1)
Variance in Stretch	610	(1)
Stretch/and Recovery Gauge	611	(1)
Classification of Knit Fabrics	612	(1)
Direction of Stretch	612	(1)
Adapting Patterns to Knits	613	(3)
The Shrinkage Factor	613	(1)
The Stretch Factor	614	(2)
Knit Top Foundations
Types of Knit Foundations	616	(1)
Dartless Stretchy Knit---Draft 1	616	(2)
Dartless Firm Knit---Draft 2	618	(1)
Oversized Knit Top---Draft 3	619	(2)
Cotton Knit Top Draft	619	(1)
Ribbing	620	(1)
Crop Top with a Muscle Sleeve	621	(1)
Knit Top	622	(2)
Activewear for Dance and Exercise
Bodysuits and Leotards	624	(1)
The Bodysuit Foundation	624	(3)
Method for Correcting Pattern to Improve Fit	627	(1)
Lycra Sleeve Draft	628	(2)
No-Side-Seam Bodysuit	628	(1)
One-Piece Bodysuit	629	(1)
Bodysuit Design Variations	630	(5)
Bodysuit with Scooped Neck and Cutouts	630	(1)
Bodysuit with High-Necked Halter Top	631	(2)
Separated Bodysuit	633	(1)
Tights	634	(1)
Stirrups	634	(1)
Leotard Foundation	635	(3)
Method for Correcting Pattern to Improve Fit	638	(8)
All-in-One Leotard	639	(1)
Color-Block Design for Leotard	639	(2)
Leotard with Raglan Sleeve	641	(2)
Basic Tank Leotard	643	(3)
Swimwear
Swimwear Types	646	(1)
Maillot Foundation	647	(9)
Maillot Draft	647	(2)
Basic Tank-Top Maillot	649	(1)
Maillot with Bra Lining	650	(2)
Princess Maillot	652	(2)
Maillot with Inset Bra	654	(1)
Asymmetric Maillot	655	(1)
Bikini Foundation	656	(1)
Bikini Based on Maillot or Leotard Foundation	656	(1)
Bikini Based on Front Skirt Foundation	656	(1)
Bikini Bottom Variations	657	(1)
High-Cut Leg Bikini	657	(1)
Bikini Top Variations	658	(8)
Princess-Line Bikini Top	658	(1)
Strap Variations	659	(1)
Bra Top with Horizontal Styleline	660	(1)
Bra Tops for Bikini Bottoms	661	(3)
String-a-Long Bikini Top	664	(1)
Bandeau Bikini Top	665	(1)
Little-Boy Legline Foundation	666	(3)
Little-Boy Legline Variations	667	(1)
Little-Boy Draft	667	(2)
Full-Figure Swim Foundation	669	(3)
Full-Figure Swim Draft	669	(1)
Swimsuit with Skirt Front	670	(2)
Supplies and Special Information	672	(7)
Use of Elastic	672	(1)
Finishing Crotch and Shoulder	673	(1)
Bra Cups for Swimwear	674	(2)
Attaching Neck Straps to Swimsuit	676	(2)
Introduction to Childrenswear
Childrenswear Challenges	678	(1)
Color and Functional Clothing	678	(1)
Representative Sizes	678	(1)
Size Groupings	678	(1)
Observable Differences	678	(1)
Size Categories for Childrenswear	679	(1)
Sizing Methods	679	(1)
Alternate Sizing	680	(1)
Sources of Inspiration	680	(4)
Children's Fashion References	680	(4)
Drafting the Basic Pattern Set (Measurement Taking and Standard Measurement Charts)
Measuring the Form---Children, 3 to 6X, Girls, 7 to 14; and Boys, 7 to 14	684	(3)
Form Preparation	684	(1)
Armhole Depth Chart	684	(1)
Torso Circumference Measurements	684	(1)
Vertical Measurements	685	(1)
Horizontal Measurements	685	(1)
Leg Measurements	686	(1)
Arm Measurements	686	(1)
Standard Measurement Chart for Boys and Girls	687	(1)
Standard Measurement Chart for Girls	688	(1)
The Basic Pattern Set	689	(2)
The Basic Pattern for Boyswear	689	(1)
Front Bodice Draft	689	(1)
Back Bodice Draft	690	(1)
Darts and Dart Equivalents	691	(5)
Basic Skirt Draft	692	(1)
Basic Sleeve	693	(3)
Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
Collars	696	(1)
Collar Designs	696	(1)
Shirt Collar	696	(1)
Sailor Collar	696	(1)
Peter Pan Collar	696	(1)
Collar and Stand Collar	696	(1)
Dartless Sleeve Foundation	697	(1)
Dartless Sleeve Draft	697	(1)
Sleeves	698	(1)
Puff Sleeve	698	(1)
Leg-o-Mutton	698	(1)
Petal Sleeve	698	(1)
Bell Sleeve	698	(1)
Sleeve Design Variations	699	(3)
Cap Sleeve---Design 1	699	(1)
Ruffled Sleeve---Design 2	700	(1)
Saucer Sleeve---Design 3	700	(1)
Baby Puff Sleeve---Design 4	700	(1)
Drawstring Sleeve	701	(1)
Skirts	702	(6)
Tiered Skirts	702	(1)
Cascades/Partial Circles	702	(1)
Gore Skirts	702	(1)
Pleated Skirt	702	(1)
Full Circle Skirt	702	(1)
Flared Skirt	703	(1)
Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band	704	(1)
Yoked Circular Skirt	705	(3)
Dresses and Jumpers
The Shift Foundation---3 to 6X and 7 to 14	708	(6)
Shift Draft	708	(1)
Princess Styleline	709	(1)
Princess Draft	709	(2)
Empire with Flare	711	(1)
Empire Draft	712	(2)
Tent Foundation	714	(1)
Tent Draft	714	(1)
Tent Variations	715	(5)
Bib Jumper Draft	715	(1)
Tank-Top Jumper Draft	716	(1)
Torso Jumper	717	(1)
Torso Jumper Draft	717	(3)
Tops
Dartless Top Foundation	720	(2)
The Dartless Draft	720	(2)
Basic Shirt and Sleeve Foundation	722	(2)
Shirt Draft	722	(2)
Shirt Sleeve	724	(2)
Shirt Sleeve Draft	724	(2)
Oversized Shirt and Sleeve	726	(2)
Oversized Shirt Draft	726	(1)
Oversized Shirt Sleeve Draft	727	(1)
Knit Foundation and Sleeve	728	(4)
Knit Draft	728	(1)
Knit Sleeve Draft	729	(1)
Modified Knit Top	730	(1)
Tank Top	731	(1)
Raglan Foundation	732	(3)
Raglan Draft	732	(3)
Jacket Foundation	735	(5)
Sleeve Modification	735	(1)
Jacket Draft	735	(1)
Jacket with Notched Collar	736	(2)
Cardigan Jacket	738	(1)
Vest	739	(1)
Sleeve and Coat Foundation	740	(1)
Sleeve Draft	740	(1)
Coat Draft	740	(1)
Navy Pea Coat	741	(5)
Pants and Jumpsuits
Introduction to Pants	746	(1)
Trouser Foundation	746	(2)
Trouser Draft	746	(2)
Slack Foundation	748	(1)
Slack Draft	748	(1)
Jean Foundation	749	(2)
Jean Draft	749	(2)
Waist Options	751	(2)
Waist Band Draft	751	(1)
Waist Band Controls the Waist	751	(1)
Elastic Controls the Waist	751	(1)
Partial Waist Band and Elastic	752	(1)
Pant Variations	753	(1)
Pleated Trouser	753	(1)
Baggy Pant	754	(5)
Western Jean	755	(2)
Bell-Bottom Pants	757	(2)
Guideline Marking for Pant Derivatives	759	(3)
Definitions	759	(1)
Flared Shorts	760	(1)
Short-Shorts	761	(1)
Knickers---Design 3	761	(1)
Jumpsuit Foundation	762	(6)
Jumpsuit Draft	763	(1)
Jumpsuit with Blousing	764	(1)
Oversized Jumpsuit	764	(1)
Tank-Top Jumpsuit	765	(1)
Bib Overall	766	(2)
Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear
Bodysuit	768	(2)
Tank-Top Bodysuit Draft	769	(1)
Bodysuit with Sleeves	770	(1)
Bodysuit Draft	770	(1)
Lycra Knit Sleeve	770	(1)
Tights with Top	771	(1)
Top and Bottom Patterns	771	(1)
Tights	771	(1)
Tank-Top Leotard	772	(1)
Leotard Draft	772	(1)
Leotard with Sleeve	773	(1)
Maillot Foundation	774	(1)
Maillot Draft	774	(1)
Bikini Swimsuit	775	(2)
Bikini Draft	775	(2)
Appendix	777	(19)
Bibliographic Credits	796	(1)
Index	797	(13)
Guide to Reading Ruler Increments	810