Ready-To-Wear Apparel Analysis

by Brown, Patty; Rice, Jane, RN, CMA

• ISBN13: 9780130254344
• ISBN10: 0130254347
• Edition: 3rd
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2000-07-05
• Publisher: Prentice Hall

Summary

Taking a practical industry approach, this book provides fashion merchandisers with an understanding of the mass production process of ready-to-wear apparel, and the objective evaluation of its cost and quality. Coverage of practical issues and industry methods, along with the related vocabulary, make this book an excellent reference guide.Chapter topics include government regulations and labeling; the priority of industry and consumers; focus on design development; sizing and fit as the keys to competitive advantage; fabric; quality indicators such as fabric and trim; stitches; seams and edge treatments; garment assembly; and home fashions.For use in retailer- and manufacturer-run libraries, training programs, and testing labs, and for anyone working in the apparel industry.

Author Biography

PATTY BROWN originally wrote Ready-To-Wear Apparel Analysis to meet the needs of her fashion merchandising students. She is proud to see the third edition move closer to the industry, providing and excellent basis in both theory and current practice for understanding apparel production and quality, essential for success in the field.

Patty received her B.S. in Clothing and Textiles Retailing with an area of concentration in Business Administration as a Pershing Scholar at Truman State University, where she was a valedictorian. She received her M.S. in Clothing and Textiles as a Gregory Fellow while serving as a teaching assistant at the University of Missouri-Columbia. Her flawless academic record reflects her high standards and attention to detail.

Patty has worked in retail for Neate's Department Store and at the district level for Hancock Fabrics. She has served on the teaching faculties of Truman State University and Texas Christian University and currently is an adjunct instructor at Johnson County Community College. She is President of ATEXINC, the Apparel & Textile Education Xchange, a company that develops and markets educational specialties in the area of textiles and apparel to colleges and universities. Patty is a member of the International Textiles and Apparel Association and Fashion Group International.

JANETT RICE, a former educator, joined Patty Brown in the preparation of the second and third editions of Ready-To-Wear Apparel Analysis in order to share her industry experience with students of apparel merchandising, management, and design. Janett believes theory is most effective when complemented by practical, real-life examples. She contributed to this book with this belief in mind.

Janett received her B.S. in Home Economics Education from the University of New Mexico and her M.S. in Clothing and Textiles Design from Colorado State University.

Janett's teaching career spanned nine years and included teaching on the faculties of The University of Manitoba and Iowa State University. Janett's apparel industry career spanned thirteen years and includes managerial positions at The Lee Company (a division of VF Corporation) and Mervyn's (a division of The Dayton Hudson Corporation). Her responsibilities took her to domestic apparel manufacturers and contractors throughout the entire United States and textile testing labs throughout the world. For about two years, Janett operated TATR, a textile and apparel testing consulting service, which included clients such as ACTS Testing Labs and Textile Innovators. Janett spent two years as the Director of Quality Assurance at Williams Sonoma, Inc., a retailer of products designed for home and garden use, where she enjoyed the challenges and rewards of working with both textile products and hard goods. However, when offered the opportunity to become the General Manager of Intertek Testing Services' West Coast textile testing lab, Janett returned to her favorite technical area of expertise—textiles and apparel.

Janett is a member of Fashion Group International and is active in several industry professional organizations. She has received Certificates of Appreciation for her efforts from both ASTM and AATCC. Janett has continually maintained contact with the academic community through her service on advisory boards at four educational institutions and frequently provides guest lectures.

Table of Contents

Overview of the Apparel Industry: The Big Picture	1	(21)
Chapter Objectives	1	(1)
History of the Apparel Industry	2	(1)
Today's Apparel Industry	3	(4)
Manufacturers	4	(1)
Contractors	5	(1)
Wholesale Representatives	5	(1)
Retailers	5	(1)
Branded versus Private Label	5	(1)
Vertical Integration and Consolidation	6	(1)
Global Trade in the Apparel Industry	7	(7)
Exports	8	(1)
Imports	9	(2)
Offshore Production	11	(1)
Chapter 98 Production	11	(1)
International Trade Policy	11	(2)
Free Trade and Fair Trade	13	(1)
Quick Response Strategy	14	(2)
How Quick Response Works	14	(2)
Benefits of Quick Response	16	(1)
Computer Use	16	(2)
How Bar Codes Work	17	(1)
Benefits of Bar Codes	17	(1)
Summary	18	(1)
Checklist	18	(1)
New Terms	19	(1)
Review Questions	20	(1)
Activities	20	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	21	(1)
Government Regulations and Labeling: Communicating to Consumers	22	(24)
Chapter Objectives	22	(1)
Regulations on Apparel Labeling	23	(7)
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act	23	(2)
Wool Products Labeling Act	25	(1)
Fur Products Labeling Act	26	(1)
Guides for Select Leather and Imitation Leather Products	26	(1)
Feather and Down Products	26	(1)
Silk Labeling Regulation	26	(1)
Care Labeling Rule	27	(3)
Regulations on Apparel Safety	30	(3)
Flammable Fabrics Act	31	(1)
Regulations for Toys and Children's Articles	32	(1)
Guidelines for Drawstrings on Children's Outerwear	32	(1)
Regulations on Apparel Industry Business Practices	33	(4)
Occupational Safety and Health Administration Regulations	34	(1)
Department of Labor Regulations	35	(1)
Equal Employment Opportunity Commission Regulations	36	(1)
Department of Justice Regulations	36	(1)
Environmental Protection Agency Regulations	36	(1)
Ethics	36	(1)
Voluntary Label Information	37	(5)
Trademarks and Brands	37	(3)
Warranties and Certifications	40	(1)
Union Made	41	(1)
Size	42	(1)
Summary	42	(1)
Government Regulations and Label Checklist	43	(1)
New Terms	43	(1)
Review Questions	44	(1)
Activities	44	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	45	(1)
Apparel Quality: The Priority of Industry and Consumers	46	(29)
Chapter Objectives	46	(1)
Quality Features	47	(1)
Physical Features	47	(1)
Performance Features	47	(1)
Selling Points and Buying Benefits	48	(1)
Price	48	(2)
Price Lines	48	(2)
Price as a Cue to Quality	50	(1)
How Consumers Perceive Quality	50	(4)
Application of the Perceived Quality Model	51	(1)
Determinant Attributes	52	(2)
Variations in Target Markets	54	(2)
End Use	54	(1)
Demographics and Psychographics	55	(1)
Value: Relating Price and Quality	56	(3)
Perceived Value Graph	56	(1)
Cost Per Wear	57	(1)
Apparel Life Expectancy	58	(1)
Quality Processes Used in the Apparel Industry	59	(12)
Staffing the Quality Department	59	(1)
Establishing Standards and Specifications	60	(5)
Testing	65	(2)
Inspection	67	(2)
Analysis of Returns	69	(2)
ISO 9000 Certification	71	(1)
Summary	71	(1)
Quality Checklist	72	(1)
New Terms	72	(1)
Review Questions	73	(1)
Activities	73	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	74	(1)
The Mass-Production Process: The Apparel Industry at Work	75	(38)
Chapter Objectives	75	(3)
Adopting a Marketing Orientation	78	(1)
Evaluation of the Previous Line and Trend Analysis	79	(1)
Design	79	(4)
Line Development	80	(1)
Preliminary Line Approval	81	(1)
Fabric and Findings Research and Development	82	(1)
Making of First Patterns	82	(1)
Construction of Prototype Garments	83	(1)
Sourcing (Contracting)	83	(2)
Costing	85	(5)
Precosting	85	(1)
Production Costing	86	(2)
Relationship of Cost to Price	88	(1)
Balancing Cost and Quality	88	(2)
Preproduction	90	(7)
Fabric Testing and Approval	90	(1)
Writing of Garment Specifications	90	(1)
Color and Shade Approval	90	(1)
Findings Testing and Approval	91	(1)
Care Label and Other Label Approval	91	(1)
Making Preproduction Garments	91	(1)
Garment Classification with U.S. Customs (Imports Only)	92	(1)
Making Production Patterns	92	(1)
Grading	92	(3)
Marker Making	95	(2)
Production	97	(9)
Spreading	98	(1)
Cutting	99	(1)
Making Sample Garments	100	(1)
Applying Decorative Details	100	(1)
Assembly (Sewing) of Production Garments	100	(2)
Wet Processing	102	(3)
Pressing	105	(1)
Finishing	106	(1)
Final Audit	106	(1)
Distribution	106	(1)
Promotion and Sales	107	(1)
The Advancement of Apparel Production	108	(1)
Summary	108	(1)
Mass Production Checklist	109	(1)
New Terms	109	(2)
Review Questions	111	(1)
Activities	111	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	112	(1)
Shape, Silhouette, Style: Focus on Design Development	113	(32)
Chapter Objectives	113	(1)
Garment Shape	113	(15)
Role of Fabric Grain	114	(3)
Shaping Methods	117	(7)
Supporting the Shape	124	(4)
Silhouette and Style	128	(12)
Garment Silhouettes	128	(1)
Garment Lengths	128	(1)
Edge Treatment Styles	128	(1)
Waistlines	128	(1)
Necklines	129	(1)
Collars	129	(1)
Sleeves	130	(2)
Cuffs	132	(1)
Pockets	133	(1)
Decorative Details Integral to the Garment	134	(4)
Functional Design Considerations	138	(2)
Summary	140	(1)
New Terms	141	(1)
Shape, Silhouette, and Style Checklist	142	(1)
Review Questions	142	(1)
Activities	142	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	143	(2)
Sizing and Fit: The Keys to Competitive Advantage	145	(28)
Chapter Objectives	145	(1)
Sizing	146	(7)
Numbered Sizing	146	(1)
Lettered Sizing	147	(1)
Childrenswear	148	(1)
Womenswear	149	(3)
Menswear	152	(1)
Fit	153	(15)
Controlling Fit	154	(2)
Five Elements Of Fit	156	(3)
Evaluating Fit	159	(7)
Fitting Special Markets	166	(2)
Summary	168	(1)
Sizing and Fit Checklist	169	(1)
New Terms	170	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	171	(2)
Fabric: The Essential Quality Indicator	173	(36)
Chapter Objectives	173	(1)
Physical Features of Fabric	174	(13)
Fibers	174	(2)
Yarns	176	(2)
Fabric Structure	178	(5)
Color and Applied Design	183	(4)
Finishes	187	(1)
Fabric Performance	187	(17)
Customized Fabrics	188	(1)
Establishing Fabric Specifications	189	(3)
Aesthetic Performance of Fabric	192	(2)
Functional Performance of Fabric	194	(7)
Fabric Performance Testing	201	(3)
Leather and Fur	204	(1)
Leather	204	(1)
Fur	204	(1)
Summary	205	(1)
Fabric Quality Checklist	205	(1)
New Terms	206	(1)
Review Questions	207	(1)
Activities	207	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	208	(1)
Findings and Trim: More Quality Indicators	209	(29)
Chapter Objectives	209	(1)
Findings and Trim Performance	209	(4)
Establishing Findings and Trim Specifications	210	(1)
Aesthetic Performance of Findings and Trim	210	(1)
Functional Performance of Findings and Trim	211	(2)
Physical Features of Findings and Trim	213	(21)
Labels	213	(1)
Thread	213	(2)
Trim	215	(3)
Closures	218	(9)
Underlying Fabrics	227	(3)
Other Shaping and Supporting Devices	230	(4)
Summary	234	(1)
Findings and Trim Quality Checklist	235	(1)
New Terms	235	(1)
Review Questions	236	(1)
Activities	236	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	237	(1)
Stitches: Holding the Garment Together	238	(25)
Chapter Objectives	238	(1)
Stitch Performance	238	(1)
Physical Features of Stitches	239	(21)
Stitch Type	239	(15)
Stitch Length	254	(2)
Stitch Tension	256	(1)
Skipped Stitches	257	(1)
Stitch Width	257	(1)
Needles	258	(1)
Sewing Accuracy	259	(1)
Back Tacking and Latch Tacking	259	(1)
Long Threads	260	(1)
Summary	260	(1)
Stitch Quality Checklist	260	(1)
New Terms	260	(1)
Review Questions	261	(1)
Activities	261	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	262	(1)
Seams and Edge Treatments: Providing Structure	263	(34)
Chapter Objectives	263	(1)
Seam Performance	263	(3)
Seam Pucker	264	(1)
Bulk	264	(1)
Seam Strength	265	(1)
Physical Features of Seams	266	(13)
Seam Type	266	(10)
Seam Allowance Width	276	(1)
Seam Stays	277	(1)
Sewing Accuracy	277	(2)
Performance of Edge Treatments	279	(1)
Physical Features of Edge Treatments	280	(13)
Edge-Finish Stitchings	280	(5)
Other Edge Treatments	285	(8)
Summary	293	(1)
Seam and Edge Treatment Quality Checklist	294	(1)
New Terms	294	(1)
Review Questions	295	(1)
Activities	295	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	296	(1)
Preliminary Garment Assembly: Parts and Panels	297	(29)
Chapter Objectives	297	(3)
Parts Assembly	300	(16)
Serging Raw Edges	300	(1)
Attaching Labels	300	(1)
Adding Decorative Details	301	(6)
Applying Zippers	307	(3)
Constructing Pockets	310	(3)
Adding Belt Loops and Miscellaneous Loops	313	(1)
Applying Interfacing	313	(1)
Attaching Underlining	314	(1)
Applying Reinforcements	315	(1)
Panel Assembly	316	(6)
Shaping	316	(1)
Seaming	317	(2)
Attaching Elastic	319	(3)
Hemming Garments and Applying Other Edge Treatments	322	(1)
Summary	322	(1)
Preliminary Assembly Quality Checklist	323	(1)
New Terms	324	(1)
Review Questions	324	(1)
Activities	324	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	325	(1)
Garment Assembly and Finishing: Pieces into Products	326	(26)
Chapter Objectives	326	(1)
Piece Assembly	326	(11)
Constructing Collars	326	(5)
Setting Sleeves	331	(2)
Adding Cuffs	333	(2)
Constructing Waistbands	335	(1)
Attaching Shoulder Pads	336	(1)
Applying Linings	336	(1)
Product Assembly and Finishing	337	(11)
Applying Buttons	337	(8)
Applying Snap Fasteners	345	(1)
Applying Hooks and Eyes	346	(1)
Applying Miscellaneous Closures	347	(1)
Finish Pressing	347	(1)
Summary	348	(1)
Assembly and Finishing Quality Checklist	349	(1)
New Terms	350	(1)
Review Questions	350	(1)
Activities	350	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	351	(1)
Soft Home Fashions	352	(29)
Chapter Objectives	352	(1)
Overview of the Soft Home Fashions Industry	353	(1)
Government Regulations and Labeling	353	(3)
Fiber Content Labeling	354	(1)
Care Labeling	355	(1)
Regulations on Safety---Flammability	355	(1)
Product Development, Production, and Quality Evaluation	356	(1)
Home Furnishings Textiles	357	(12)
Bed	358	(8)
Towels	366	(2)
Table Linens	368	(1)
Other Soft Home Fashions	369	(7)
Upholstery Fabrics	369	(1)
Soft Window Treatments	370	(4)
Textile Wall Coverings	374	(1)
Soft Floor Coverings	375	(1)
Other Textile Accessories and Accents	375	(1)
Summary	376	(1)
Home Fashions Quality Checklist	376	(1)
New Terms	377	(1)
Review Questions	378	(1)
Activities	379	(1)
Guiding the Discussion	379	(2)
Related Resources	381	(8)
Appendix A Generalizations about Usage, Cost, and Performance Characteristics of Common Apparel Fibers	389	(4)
Appendix B Fabric Performance Specifications Available from American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)	393	(2)
Appendix C Apparel Sewing Thread Selection Guide by Tex Size for Major Seams (Courtesy of Coats American)	395	(2)
Appendix D Seams and Stitchings: Diagrams in ASTM 6193-97 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams	397	(6)
Appendix E General Applications to Typical Operations: Applications of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings in ASTM 6193-97 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams	403	(1)
Glossary	403	(26)
Index	429

Excerpts

Preface The purpose of this book is to provide an understanding of the production of ready-to-wear apparel and to present a method for evaluating its quality The book takes an industry approach, integrating the study of traditional clothing design and construction with that of apparel mass production. The resulting body of knowledge and related vocabulary are important tools for anyone pursuing a career in the apparel industry. To make informed business decisions in the apparel industry, one must understand how apparel products are developed and produced and appreciate the features that affect cost and quality. A familiarity with apparel production and quality and how they are achieved enhances effectiveness on every level: Designers and merchandisers establish product standards that maximize quality while balancing cost limitations. Suppliers of equipment, materials, and services meet the manufacturers'' requirements. Manufacturers communicate quality expectations to contractors. Wholesale representatives educate retail buyers about quality features. Retail buyers choose garments that perform as intended and deliver value to the consumer. Advertisers and marketers promote quality features to the target market. Retail salespeople communicate quality features to consumers. Consumers make informed purchase decisions. In short, anyone can benefit from a knowledge of apparel quality. WHAT''S NEW IN THE THIRD EDITION An important addition to the third edition is the bonus chapter about Soft Home Fashions.There is an increasing interrelationship between the traditional fashion industry (apparel and apparel accessories) and the home fashions industry. In fact, the two industries are sometimes referred to more broadly as part of the soft goods industry,including all sewn products that share a reliance on textiles as their main component. Therefore, providing information on how these related products are developed, produced, and evaluated will be helpful to many who are interested in apparel fashions but eventually find that their careers lead them to require a knowledge of home fashions as well. This information is included as a bonus chapter for instructors who choose to cover it, encouraging students to broaden their career options. However, other instructors may choose to use the chapter mainly as reference material. Another exciting addition to the third edition is the inclusion of "Try a Real-Life Scenario" case studies in each chapter. Each of these short cases is adapted directly from a situation that actually occurred in the industry. Each situation challenges students to integrate their reading and experience while discussing what decisions they would make if they were responsible for the outcome of each case. The cases do not have "right" and "wrong" answers, but instead have different possible solutions depending on varying opinions and viewpoints. These cases should provide lively points of discussion as well as prepare students for the types of decisions they will be expected to make every day as apparel/home fashions industry professionals. The discussion of ethics and codes of conduct has been expanded in this edition to assist students in evaluating decisions in an ethical context. The Related Resources list at the end of the book contains an updated and expanded list of textile- and apparel-related websites. Using this list, one of the most complete you will find anywhere, students can find up-to-the-minute information on the Internet, expanding their study and understanding of many issues discussed in the text. The Related Resources list provides an important professional resource for continuing study and keeping abreast of the most current information on many topics. We encourage you to lead your students on Internet forays to experience the wealth of knowledge waiting there for them. In the third edition we continue to present information about apparel analysis using an industry approach. The book is organized in the same order in which apparel products and decisions are made. Thus the study of apparel analysis reflects the apparel industry''s approach to product development and product assembly. This edition incorporates commonly used industry terminology and the job titles associated with various functions. Readers learn to think, speak, and act like an industry professional and better understand the connections between different elements of the process. They are exposed to both merchandising and assembly decisions and the cost and quality results of those decisions, as well as the ethical considerations in making those decisions. Thus readers receive an orientation to the complexity of the process of bringing apparel products to market. More photos and illustrations enhance the visual appeal of the text. A number of figures showing industry processes have been added, while the many figures showing close-ups of garment features that communicate much to readers about apparel cost and quality have been retained. The first four chapters supply the background required for understanding the industry and the context within which decisions that affect product quality are made. These chapters establish the perspective for product development. Chapter 1 gives an overview of the apparel industry and explains its global nature and ever-increasing use of technology. This edition contains a greater global focus, giving equal treatment to both imported and exported products. Readers gain experience in thinking more globally, an important skill in our increasingly global society Chapter. 2 summarizes the regulatory climate within which the industry operates and explains both required and voluntary labeling. This coverage of the government regulations that affect apparel products and the apparel industry allows readers to understand how a company must function within its environment as required by law. Chapter 3 defines apparel quality, establishes a framework for examining how consumers evaluate quality and value, and discusses costing and pricing, It also examines the quality methods employed by the apparel industry. A continued emphasis on standards and specifications and on how products are tested and inspected for compliance helps readers learn how to better communicate quality. requirements and to fully understand how standards and specifications help create quality products. They also gain a sense of how testing and inspection are essential tools used to enhance the quality of apparel products. Chapter 4 outlines the complete mass-production cycle. The next six chapters explain the factors that must be considered when planning an apparel product. Chapter 5 explains how garments are shaped by darts and dart substitutes and supported by underlying fabrics and other devices. It also defines silhouette and style variations, with emphasis on garment lengths, waistlines, necklines, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, and decorative details integral to the garment. Chapter 6 examines sizing and the evaluation of fit, crucial elements in formulating successful products. Chapter 7 reviews the influence of fibers, yarns, fabric structure, and finishes on the garment; its readers will benefit from a previous exposure to basic textiles. Chapter 8 covers the selection of the findings and trim items required to make garments. Chapter 9 introduces the stitch classes and stitch types contained in ASTM Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams.Chapter 10 discusses the seam classes and types contained in ASTM Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams,seam defects and features that ensure seam integrity, stitchings, and other edge treatments. The final two chapters explain the execution of the product plan through the assembly of the garments. The assembly portion of the