Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach

by Pandit, Pintu; Ahmed, Shakeel; Singha, Kunal; Shrivastava, Sanjay

• ISBN13: 9781119620495
• ISBN10: 111962049X
• Edition: 1st
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2020-07-15
• Publisher: Wiley-Scrivener

Summary

The alarming level of greenhouse gases in the environment, fast depleting natural resources and the increasing level of industrial effluents, have made every single manufacturing activity come under the scrutiny of sustainability. When all kinds of waste such as clothes, furniture, carpets, televisions, shoes, paper, food wastes etc. end up in the landfill, only a few of them are naturally decomposed and thus a large majority remains as non-biodegradable. It is for this reason, efforts are concentrated to reduce the burden on earth by this waste, and as far as used textile products are concerned, there are now attempts to recycle or up-cycle. This book addresses the role of sustainability by using textile waste in fashion and textiles with respect to manufacturing, materials, as well as the economic and business challenges and opportunities it poses.

This wide-ranging book comprises 19 chapters on the various topics including:

· Solutions for sustainable fashion and textile industry

· Agro and bio waste in the fashion industry

· Innovating fashion brands by using textile waste

· Waste in handloom textiles

· Business paradigm shifting: 21st century fashion from recycling and upcycling

· Utilization of natural waste for sustainable textile coloration

· Circular economy in fashion and textile from waste

· Future pathways of waste utilization for fashion

· Sustainable encapsulation of natural dyes from Plant waste for textiles

· Agro-waste applications for bio-remediation of textile effluent

Author Biography

Pintu Pandit is an Assistant Professor in Textile Design Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology under Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Patna campus. He received his PhD degree in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology from the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India.

Shakeel Ahmed is an Assistant Professor in Chemistry at the Higher Education Department, Government of Jammu and Kashmir, India. He obtained his PhD in the area of biopolymers and bionanocomposites from Jamia Millia Islamia in the year 2016 and has published several research publications in the area of green nanomaterials and biopolymers for various applications including biomedical, packaging, sensors, and water treatment.

Kunal Singha is an Assistant Professor in Department of Textile Design at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Patna, India. He received his education at WBUT, IIT Delhi and IIT Kharagpur, India and his primary research work is in sustainable textiles, quality, supply and manufacturing chain.

Sanjay Shrivastava has 23 years of progressive responsibility and operational leadership experience in India's top academic organization imparting education in Fashion Design, Management and Technology. He is the Director of NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology), Patna, India.

Table of Contents

Preface xxi

1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1
Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava and Shakeel Ahmed

1.1 Introduction 2

1.2 Importance of Recycling 3

1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing and Benefits of Recycling 4

1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6

1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6

1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7

1.7 The Circular Economy 9

1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9

1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10

1.8.1.1 Cotton 10

1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10

1.8.1.3 Wool 11

1.8.1.4 Silk 11

1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12

1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion Industry 13

1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social Obligation 13

1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14

1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15

1.14 Conclusions 16

References 17

2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19
Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity and Amal Ray

2.1 Introduction 20

2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21

2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24

2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29

2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29

2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29

2.4.2 Process Related 30

2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30

2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30

2.5 Conclusions 31

References 31

3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33
Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra

3.1 Introduction 34

3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35

3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36

3.2.2 Reuse 36

3.2.3 Restyling 39

3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41

3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41

3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44

3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44

3.3.2 Household Rags 45

3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45

3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46

3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46

3.4.2 Government Regulations 47

3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47

3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production and Processing of Textile Fibers 48

3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability in Textile Industry 49

3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53

3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care, and Recycling 53

3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing Recycling Practices 56

3.7 Textile Waste 57

3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals, and Water 58

3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58

3.8.2 Geotextiles 58

3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse in a Textile Industry 58

3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60

3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62

3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62

3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62

3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62

3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62

3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63

3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63

3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63

3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards, Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64

3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64

3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64

3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64

3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65

3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66

3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66

3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66

3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66

3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69

3.12 Conclusion 69

References 70

4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73
Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit

4.1 Introduction 74

4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75

4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75

4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76

4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78

4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78

4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79

4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79

4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80

4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81

4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles From Crop Waste 81

4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82

4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82

4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83

4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83

4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84

4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco-Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84

4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85

4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/Biowastes 86

4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87

4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88

4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89

4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents: Few Case Studies 90

4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed Fashion Garments 93

4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural Dyed Apparels 94

4.5 Conclusion 94

References 95

5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile Waste for Better Fashion 101
Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas

5.1 Introduction 102

5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103

5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile and Apparel Industries 105

5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105

5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107

5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using Textile Waste 109

5.4.1 Anokhi 110

5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110

5.4.3 Everlane 112

5.4.4 Doodlage 112

5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113

5.4.6 Osklen 114

5.4.7 Raeburn 115

5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115

5.4.9 Bottletop 115

5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116

5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116

5.4.12 Raw Mango 116

5.4.13 Patagonia 116

5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117

5.5 Conclusion 117

References 118

6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123
Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik, Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar

6.1 Introduction 124

6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126

6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized Textile Sectors 127

6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127

6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129

6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129

6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131

6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131

6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132

6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133

6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133

6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136

6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138

6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using Natural Resources 139

6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139

6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric Using Natural Resources 144

6.10 Conclusions 147

Acknowledgments 147

References 147

7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151
Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar, Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj

7.1 Introduction 152

7.2 Importance of Recycling 152

7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153

7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154

7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154

7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable Materials 155

7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156

7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158

7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159

7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160

7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161

7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164

7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166

7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166

7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167

7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167

7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169

7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170

7.13 Conclusions 174

Acknowledgments 174

References 175

8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177
Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal, Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha

8.1 Introduction 177

8.2 Sustainability 178

8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion Industry 180

8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182

8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182

8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182

8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182

8.5.2.1 Recycle 183

8.5.2.2 Reuse 184

8.5.2.3 Reduce 184

8.5.3 Upcycling 185

8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185

8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186

8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187

8.6 Advance Technologies 188

8.6.1 Foam Technology 188

8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188

8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189

8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189

8.7 Eco-Labeling 189

8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190

8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190

8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190

8.10.1 Cartina 191

8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191

8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191

8.10.4 Piñatex 192

8.10.5 Polylana 192

8.10.6 Seacell 193

8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193

8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under the Fashion Industry 193

8.12 Conclusions 194

References 195

9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199
Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity, Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar

9.1 Introduction 199

9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200

9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200

9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202

9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203

9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203

9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing Strategies 204

9.4 Conclusions 210

References 211

10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration— Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215
Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit

10.1 Introduction 216

10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218

10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218

10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219

10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220

10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes and Natural Mordants 222

10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225

10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226

10.6 Conclusion 230

References 231

11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235
Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray

11.1 Introduction 236

11.2 Linear Economy 236

11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238

11.4 Circular Economy 238

11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241

11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile and Fashion Industry 242

11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244

11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245

11.5.4 Opportunities 247

11.6 Conclusion 248

References 249

12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile and Fashion 253
Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey

12.1 Introduction 253

12.2 Marketing Mix 255

12.2.1 Product 256

12.2.2 Price 257

12.2.3 Place 258

12.2.4 Promotion 258

12.3 Market Analysis 259

12.3.1 Industry Overview 260

12.3.2 Target Market 260

12.3.3 Competition 261

12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261

12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile and Fashion 263

12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266

12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266

12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266

12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267

12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268

12.6 Conclusions 273

References 274

13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion and Apparels Marketplace 277
M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha

13.1 Introduction 278

13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278

13.3 Materials and Methods 280

13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280

13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281

13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281

13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281

13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural Resources 289

13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290

13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel Consumable Products 291

13.7 Conclusions 295

References 296

14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299
Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity

14.1 Introduction 299

14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300

14.2.1 Cotton 303

14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303

14.2.3 New Fibers 304

14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306

14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308

14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308

14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310

14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310

14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310

14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310

14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311

14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311

14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312

14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312

14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313

14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313

14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313

14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314

14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315

14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316

14.4.2 Space Suit 316

14.4.3 End of Life 316

14.5 Conclusions 317

References 318

15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards Best Solution 321
Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha

15.1 Introduction 322

15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323

15.2.1 Prevention 323

15.2.2 Minimization 324

15.2.3 Reuse 324

15.2.4 Recycling 324

15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324

15.2.6 Disposal 325

15.3 Textile Materials 325

15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326

15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326

15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327

15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328

15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329

15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling Textile Waste 330

15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330

15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331

15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333

15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336

15.6 Challenges 337

15.7 Conclusions 337

References 338

16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341
Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey, Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath

16.1 Introduction 342

16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343

16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches and Compensations 345

16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346

16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347

16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348

16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349

16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350

16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350

16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351

16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352

16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353

16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353

16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355

16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355

16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356

16.15 Conclusion 356

Acknowledgement 357

References 357

17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes for Textiles 363
Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman, Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan

17.1 Introduction 364

17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364

17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364

17.3.1 Alizarin 364

17.3.2 Berberine 365

17.3.3 Bixin 366

17.3.4 Brazilein 368

17.3.5 Carotenoids 368

17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369

17.3.7 Carotene 370

17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371

17.3.9 Curcumin 371

17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372

17.3.11 Indigoids 373

17.3.12 Indigo 373

17.3.13 Juglone 374

17.3.14 Lawsone 374

17.3.15 Lycopene 375

17.3.16 Morin 375

17.3.17 Quercetin 376

17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376

17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377

17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377

17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377

17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377

17.6 Biomordanting 377

17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378

17.7.1 Conventional Method 378

17.7.2 Modern Methods 379

17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379

17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380

17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381

17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381

17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381

17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381

17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382

17.8.3 Neem 383

17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384

17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384

17.8.6 Process Optimization 385

17.9 Conclusion 385

References 385

18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation of Textile Effluents 391
Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf, Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz

18.1 Introduction 392

18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392

18.2.1 Physical Methods 393

18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393

18.2.3 Biological Methods 393

18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393

18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394

18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394

18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395

18.4.1 Straws 396

18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw in Wastewater Treatment 396

18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398

18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves in Treatment of Wastewater 398

18.4.3 Stems 401

18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water Remediation 401

18.4.4 Barks 403

18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment Methods of Textile Wastewater 404

18.4.5 Nut Shells 404

18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater Remediation 407

18.4.6 Peels 407

18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408

18.4.7 Bagasse 409

18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment Methods 410

18.4.8 Husks 411

18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater Treatment 411

18.5 Conclusion 412

References 412

19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation and Applications 423
Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor, Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin

19.1 Introduction 424

19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424

19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426

19.3.1 Conventional Method 426

19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426

19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426

19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426

19.3.2 Modern Method 427

19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427

19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427

19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427

19.4 Mordanting 427

19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428

19.4.2 Biomordanting 428

19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428

19.5.1 Marigold 429

19.5.2 Pomegranate 431

19.5.3 Safflower 432

19.5.4 Acacia 434

19.5.5 Neem 436

19.5.6 Arjun 438

19.5.7 Saffron 439

19.5.8 Hermal 441

19.5.9 Turmeric 442

19.5.10 Annatto 443

19.5.11 Madder 445

19.5.12 Ratanjot 446

19.6 Conclusion 448

References 448

 

Index 457vii

Contents

Preface xxi

1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles:

A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1

Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava

and Shakeel Ahmed

1.1 Introduction 2

1.2 Importance of Recycling 3

1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing

and Benefits of Recycling 4

1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6

1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6

1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7

1.7 The Circular Economy 9

1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9

1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10

1.8.1.1 Cotton 10

1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10

1.8.1.3 Wool 11

1.8.1.4 Silk 11

1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12

1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion

Industry 13

1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social

Obligation 13

1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14

1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More

User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15

1.14 Conclusions 16

References 17

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

viii Contents

2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19

Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity

and Amal Ray

2.1 Introduction 20

2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21

2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24

2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29

2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29

2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29

2.4.2 Process Related 30

2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30

2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30

2.5 Conclusions 31

References 31

3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33

Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra

3.1 Introduction 34

3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35

3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36

3.2.2 Reuse 36

3.2.3 Restyling 39

3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41

3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41

3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44

3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44

3.3.2 Household Rags 45

3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45

3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46

3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46

3.4.2 Government Regulations 47

3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47

3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production

and Processing of Textile Fibers 48

3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability

in Textile Industry 49

3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53

3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care,

and Recycling 53

3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing

Recycling Practices 56

Contents ix

3.7 Textile Waste 57

3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals,

and Water 58

3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58

3.8.2 Geotextiles 58

3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse

in a Textile Industry 58

3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60

3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62

3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62

3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62

3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62

3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62

3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63

3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63

3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63

3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards,

Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64

3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64

3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization,

and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64

3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64

3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65

3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66

3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66

3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66

3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66

3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69

3.12 Conclusion 69

References 70

4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73

Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit

4.1 Introduction 74

4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75

4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75

4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76

4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78

4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78

4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79

4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79

x Contents

4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80

4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81

4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles

From Crop Waste 81

4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82

4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82

4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83

4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83

4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84

4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco-

Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84

4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario

and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85

4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/

Biowastes 86

4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87

4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88

4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89

4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents:

Few Case Studies 90

4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed

Fashion Garments 93

4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural

Dyed Apparels 94

4.5 Conclusion 94

References 95

5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile

Waste for Better Fashion 101

Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas

5.1 Introduction 102

5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103

5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile

and Apparel Industries 105

5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105

5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107

5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using

Textile Waste 109

5.4.1 Anokhi 110

5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110

5.4.3 Everlane 112

Contents xi

5.4.4 Doodlage 112

5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113

5.4.6 Osklen 114

5.4.7 Raeburn 115

5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115

5.4.9 Bottletop 115

5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116

5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116

5.4.12 Raw Mango 116

5.4.13 Patagonia 116

5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117

5.5 Conclusion 117

References 118

6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123

Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik,

Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar

6.1 Introduction 124

6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126

6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized

Textile Sectors 127

6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127

6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129

6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129

6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131

6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131

6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study

on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132

6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133

6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133

6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136

6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138

6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using

Natural Resources 139

6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile

Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139

6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric

Using Natural Resources 144

6.10 Conclusions 147

Acknowledgments 147

References 147

xii Contents

7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century

on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151

Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar,

Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj

7.1 Introduction 152

7.2 Importance of Recycling 152

7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153

7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154

7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154

7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable

Materials 155

7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156

7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158

7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159

7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160

7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161

7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164

7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166

7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166

7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167

7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167

7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169

7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170

7.13 Conclusions 174

Acknowledgments 174

References 175

8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177

Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal,

Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha

8.1 Introduction 177

8.2 Sustainability 178

8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar

of Sustainability 179

8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion

Industry 180

8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182

8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182

8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182

Contents xiii

8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182

8.5.2.1 Recycle 183

8.5.2.2 Reuse 184

8.5.2.3 Reduce 184

8.5.3 Upcycling 185

8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185

8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186

8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187

8.6 Advance Technologies 188

8.6.1 Foam Technology 188

8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188

8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189

8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189

8.7 Eco-Labeling 189

8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190

8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190

8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190

8.10.1 Cartina 191

8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191

8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191

8.10.4 Piñatex 192

8.10.5 Polylana 192

8.10.6 Seacell 193

8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193

8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under

the Fashion Industry 193

8.12 Conclusions 194

References 195

9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199

Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity,

Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar

9.1 Introduction 199

9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200

9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200

9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202

9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203

9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203

9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing

Strategies 204

9.4 Conclusions 210

References 211

xiv Contents

10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration—

Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215

Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit

10.1 Introduction 216

10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218

10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218

10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219

10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220

10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes

and Natural Mordants 222

10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225

10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226

10.6 Conclusion 230

References 231

11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235

Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray

11.1 Introduction 236

11.2 Linear Economy 236

11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238

11.4 Circular Economy 238

11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241

11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile

and Fashion Industry 242

11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244

11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245

11.5.4 Opportunities 247

11.6 Conclusion 248

References 249

12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile

and Fashion 253

Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey

12.1 Introduction 253

12.2 Marketing Mix 255

12.2.1 Product 256

12.2.2 Price 257

12.2.3 Place 258

12.2.4 Promotion 258

12.3 Market Analysis 259

12.3.1 Industry Overview 260

Contents xv

12.3.2 Target Market 260

12.3.3 Competition 261

12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261

12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile

and Fashion 263

12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266

12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266

12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266

12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267

12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268

12.6 Conclusions 273

References 274

13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion

and Apparels Marketplace 277

M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha

13.1 Introduction 278

13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278

13.3 Materials and Methods 280

13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280

13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281

13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281

13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281

13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural

Resources 289

13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290

13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel

Consumable Products 291

13.7 Conclusions 295

References 296

14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299

Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit,

Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity

14.1 Introduction 299

14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300

14.2.1 Cotton 303

xvi Contents

14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303

14.2.3 New Fibers 304

14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306

14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308

14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308

14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310

14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310

14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310

14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310

14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311

14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311

14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312

14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312

14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313

14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313

14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313

14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314

14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315

14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316

14.4.2 Space Suit 316

14.4.3 End of Life 316

14.5 Conclusions 317

References 318

15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards

Best Solution 321

Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit

and Kunal Singha

15.1 Introduction 322

15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323

15.2.1 Prevention 323

15.2.2 Minimization 324

15.2.3 Reuse 324

15.2.4 Recycling 324

15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324

15.2.6 Disposal 325

15.3 Textile Materials 325

15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326

15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326

15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327

15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328

Contents xvii

15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329

15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling

Textile Waste 330

15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330

15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331

15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333

15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336

15.6 Challenges 337

15.7 Conclusions 337

References 338

16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341

Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey,

Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath

16.1 Introduction 342

16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343

16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches

and Compensations 345

16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346

16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347

16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348

16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349

16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350

16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350

16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351

16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352

16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353

16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353

16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355

16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355

16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356

16.15 Conclusion 356

Acknowledgement 357

References 357

17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes

for Textiles 363

Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman,

Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan

17.1 Introduction 364

17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364

xviii Contents

17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364

17.3.1 Alizarin 364

17.3.2 Berberine 365

17.3.3 Bixin 366

17.3.4 Brazilein 368

17.3.5 Carotenoids 368

17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369

17.3.7 Carotene 370

17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371

17.3.9 Curcumin 371

17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372

17.3.11 Indigoids 373

17.3.12 Indigo 373

17.3.13 Juglone 374

17.3.14 Lawsone 374

17.3.15 Lycopene 375

17.3.16 Morin 375

17.3.17 Quercetin 376

17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376

17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377

17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377

17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377

17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377

17.6 Biomordanting 377

17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378

17.7.1 Conventional Method 378

17.7.2 Modern Methods 379

17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379

17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380

17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381

17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381

17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381

17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381

17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382

17.8.3 Neem 383

17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384

17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384

17.8.6 Process Optimization 385

17.9 Conclusion 385

References 385

Contents xix

18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation

of Textile Effluents 391

Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf,

Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz

18.1 Introduction 392

18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392

18.2.1 Physical Methods 393

18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393

18.2.3 Biological Methods 393

18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393

18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394

18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394

18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395

18.4.1 Straws 396

18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw

in Wastewater Treatment 396

18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398

18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves

in Treatment of Wastewater 398

18.4.3 Stems 401

18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water

Remediation 401

18.4.4 Barks 403

18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment

Methods of Textile Wastewater 404

18.4.5 Nut Shells 404

18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater

Remediation 407

18.4.6 Peels 407

18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408

18.4.7 Bagasse 409

18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment

Methods 410

18.4.8 Husks 411

18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater

Treatment 411

18.5 Conclusion 412

References 412

xx Contents

19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation

and Applications 423

Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor,

Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin

19.1 Introduction 424

19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424

19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426

19.3.1 Conventional Method 426

19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426

19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426

19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426

19.3.2 Modern Method 427

19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427

19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427

19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427

19.4 Mordanting 427

19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428

19.4.2 Biomordanting 428

19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428

19.5.1 Marigold 429

19.5.2 Pomegranate 431

19.5.3 Safflower 432

19.5.4 Acacia 434

19.5.5 Neem 436

19.5.6 Arjun 438

19.5.7 Saffron 439

19.5.8 Hermal 441

19.5.9 Turmeric 442

19.5.10 Annatto 443

19.5.11 Madder 445

19.5.12 Ratanjot 446

19.6 Conclusion 448

References 448

Index 457vii

Contents

Preface xxi

1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles:

A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1

Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava

and Shakeel Ahmed

1.1 Introduction 2

1.2 Importance of Recycling 3

1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing

and Benefits of Recycling 4

1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6

1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6

1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7

1.7 The Circular Economy 9

1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9

1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10

1.8.1.1 Cotton 10

1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10

1.8.1.3 Wool 11

1.8.1.4 Silk 11

1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12

1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion

Industry 13

1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social

Obligation 13

1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14

1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More

User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15

1.14 Conclusions 16

References 17

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

viii Contents

2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19

Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity

and Amal Ray

2.1 Introduction 20

2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21

2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24

2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29

2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29

2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29

2.4.2 Process Related 30

2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30

2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30

2.5 Conclusions 31

References 31

3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33

Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra

3.1 Introduction 34

3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35

3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36

3.2.2 Reuse 36

3.2.3 Restyling 39

3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41

3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41

3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44

3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44

3.3.2 Household Rags 45

3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45

3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46

3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46

3.4.2 Government Regulations 47

3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47

3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production

and Processing of Textile Fibers 48

3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability

in Textile Industry 49

3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53

3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care,

and Recycling 53

3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing

Recycling Practices 56

Contents ix

3.7 Textile Waste 57

3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals,

and Water 58

3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58

3.8.2 Geotextiles 58

3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse

in a Textile Industry 58

3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60

3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62

3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62

3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62

3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62

3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62

3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63

3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63

3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63

3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards,

Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64

3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64

3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization,

and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64

3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64

3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65

3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66

3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66

3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66

3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66

3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69

3.12 Conclusion 69

References 70

4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73

Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit

4.1 Introduction 74

4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75

4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75

4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76

4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78

4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78

4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79

4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79

x Contents

4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80

4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81

4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles

From Crop Waste 81

4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82

4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82

4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83

4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83

4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84

4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco-

Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84

4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario

and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85

4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/

Biowastes 86

4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87

4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88

4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89

4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents:

Few Case Studies 90

4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed

Fashion Garments 93

4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural

Dyed Apparels 94

4.5 Conclusion 94

References 95

5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile

Waste for Better Fashion 101

Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas

5.1 Introduction 102

5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103

5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile

and Apparel Industries 105

5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105

5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107

5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using

Textile Waste 109

5.4.1 Anokhi 110

5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110

5.4.3 Everlane 112

Contents xi

5.4.4 Doodlage 112

5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113

5.4.6 Osklen 114

5.4.7 Raeburn 115

5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115

5.4.9 Bottletop 115

5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116

5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116

5.4.12 Raw Mango 116

5.4.13 Patagonia 116

5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117

5.5 Conclusion 117

References 118

6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123

Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik,

Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar

6.1 Introduction 124

6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126

6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized

Textile Sectors 127

6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127

6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129

6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129

6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131

6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131

6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study

on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132

6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133

6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133

6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136

6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138

6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using

Natural Resources 139

6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile

Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139

6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric

Using Natural Resources 144

6.10 Conclusions 147

Acknowledgments 147

References 147

xii Contents

7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century

on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151

Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar,

Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj

7.1 Introduction 152

7.2 Importance of Recycling 152

7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153

7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154

7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154

7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable

Materials 155

7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156

7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158

7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159

7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160

7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161

7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164

7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166

7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166

7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167

7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167

7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169

7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170

7.13 Conclusions 174

Acknowledgments 174

References 175

8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177

Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal,

Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha

8.1 Introduction 177

8.2 Sustainability 178

8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar

of Sustainability 179

8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion

Industry 180

8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182

8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182

8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182

Contents xiii

8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182

8.5.2.1 Recycle 183

8.5.2.2 Reuse 184

8.5.2.3 Reduce 184

8.5.3 Upcycling 185

8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185

8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186

8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187

8.6 Advance Technologies 188

8.6.1 Foam Technology 188

8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188

8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189

8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189

8.7 Eco-Labeling 189

8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190

8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190

8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190

8.10.1 Cartina 191

8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191

8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191

8.10.4 Piñatex 192

8.10.5 Polylana 192

8.10.6 Seacell 193

8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193

8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under

the Fashion Industry 193

8.12 Conclusions 194

References 195

9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199

Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity,

Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar

9.1 Introduction 199

9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200

9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200

9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202

9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203

9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203

9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing

Strategies 204

9.4 Conclusions 210

References 211

xiv Contents

10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration—

Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215

Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit

10.1 Introduction 216

10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218

10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218

10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219

10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220

10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes

and Natural Mordants 222

10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225

10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226

10.6 Conclusion 230

References 231

11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235

Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray

11.1 Introduction 236

11.2 Linear Economy 236

11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238

11.4 Circular Economy 238

11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241

11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile

and Fashion Industry 242

11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244

11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245

11.5.4 Opportunities 247

11.6 Conclusion 248

References 249

12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile

and Fashion 253

Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey

12.1 Introduction 253

12.2 Marketing Mix 255

12.2.1 Product 256

12.2.2 Price 257

12.2.3 Place 258

12.2.4 Promotion 258

12.3 Market Analysis 259

12.3.1 Industry Overview 260

Contents xv

12.3.2 Target Market 260

12.3.3 Competition 261

12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261

12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile

and Fashion 263

12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266

12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266

12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266

12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267

12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268

12.6 Conclusions 273

References 274

13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion

and Apparels Marketplace 277

M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha

13.1 Introduction 278

13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278

13.3 Materials and Methods 280

13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280

13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281

13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281

13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281

13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural

Resources 289

13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290

13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel

Consumable Products 291

13.7 Conclusions 295

References 296

14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299

Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit,

Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity

14.1 Introduction 299

14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300

14.2.1 Cotton 303

xvi Contents

14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303

14.2.3 New Fibers 304

14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306

14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308

14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308

14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310

14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310

14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310

14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310

14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311

14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311

14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312

14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312

14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313

14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313

14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313

14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314

14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315

14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316

14.4.2 Space Suit 316

14.4.3 End of Life 316

14.5 Conclusions 317

References 318

15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards

Best Solution 321

Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit

and Kunal Singha

15.1 Introduction 322

15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323

15.2.1 Prevention 323

15.2.2 Minimization 324

15.2.3 Reuse 324

15.2.4 Recycling 324

15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324

15.2.6 Disposal 325

15.3 Textile Materials 325

15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326

15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326

15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327

15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328

Contents xvii

15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329

15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling

Textile Waste 330

15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330

15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331

15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333

15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336

15.6 Challenges 337

15.7 Conclusions 337

References 338

16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341

Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey,

Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath

16.1 Introduction 342

16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343

16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches

and Compensations 345

16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346

16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347

16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348

16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349

16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350

16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350

16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351

16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352

16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353

16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353

16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355

16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355

16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356

16.15 Conclusion 356

Acknowledgement 357

References 357

17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes

for Textiles 363

Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman,

Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan

17.1 Introduction 364

17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364

xviii Contents

17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364

17.3.1 Alizarin 364

17.3.2 Berberine 365

17.3.3 Bixin 366

17.3.4 Brazilein 368

17.3.5 Carotenoids 368

17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369

17.3.7 Carotene 370

17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371

17.3.9 Curcumin 371

17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372

17.3.11 Indigoids 373

17.3.12 Indigo 373

17.3.13 Juglone 374

17.3.14 Lawsone 374

17.3.15 Lycopene 375

17.3.16 Morin 375

17.3.17 Quercetin 376

17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376

17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377

17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377

17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377

17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377

17.6 Biomordanting 377

17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378

17.7.1 Conventional Method 378

17.7.2 Modern Methods 379

17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379

17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380

17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381

17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381

17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381

17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381

17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382

17.8.3 Neem 383

17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384

17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384

17.8.6 Process Optimization 385

17.9 Conclusion 385

References 385

Contents xix

18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation

of Textile Effluents 391

Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf,

Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz

18.1 Introduction 392

18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392

18.2.1 Physical Methods 393

18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393

18.2.3 Biological Methods 393

18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393

18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394

18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394

18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395

18.4.1 Straws 396

18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw

in Wastewater Treatment 396

18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398

18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves

in Treatment of Wastewater 398

18.4.3 Stems 401

18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water

Remediation 401

18.4.4 Barks 403

18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment

Methods of Textile Wastewater 404

18.4.5 Nut Shells 404

18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater

Remediation 407

18.4.6 Peels 407

18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408

18.4.7 Bagasse 409

18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment

Methods 410

18.4.8 Husks 411

18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater

Treatment 411

18.5 Conclusion 412

References 412

xx Contents

19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation

and Applications 423

Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor,

Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin

19.1 Introduction 424

19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424

19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426

19.3.1 Conventional Method 426

19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426

19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426

19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426

19.3.2 Modern Method 427

19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427

19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427

19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427

19.4 Mordanting 427

19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428

19.4.2 Biomordanting 428

19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428

19.5.1 Marigold 429

19.5.2 Pomegranate 431

19.5.3 Safflower 432

19.5.4 Acacia 434

19.5.5 Neem 436

19.5.6 Arjun 438

19.5.7 Saffron 439

19.5.8 Hermal 441

19.5.9 Turmeric 442

19.5.10 Annatto 443

19.5.11 Madder 445

19.5.12 Ratanjot 446

19.6 Conclusion 448

References 448

Index 457vii

Contents

Preface xxi

1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles:

A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1

Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava

and Shakeel Ahmed

1.1 Introduction 2

1.2 Importance of Recycling 3

1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing

and Benefits of Recycling 4

1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6

1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6

1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7

1.7 The Circular Economy 9

1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9

1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10

1.8.1.1 Cotton 10

1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10

1.8.1.3 Wool 11

1.8.1.4 Silk 11

1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12

1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion

Industry 13

1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social

Obligation 13

1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14

1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More

User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15

1.14 Conclusions 16

References 17

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

viii Contents

2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19

Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity

and Amal Ray

2.1 Introduction 20

2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21

2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24

2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29

2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29

2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29

2.4.2 Process Related 30

2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30

2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30

2.5 Conclusions 31

References 31

3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33

Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra

3.1 Introduction 34

3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35

3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36

3.2.2 Reuse 36

3.2.3 Restyling 39

3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41

3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41

3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44

3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44

3.3.2 Household Rags 45

3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45

3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46

3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46

3.4.2 Government Regulations 47

3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47

3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production

and Processing of Textile Fibers 48

3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability

in Textile Industry 49

3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53

3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care,

and Recycling 53

3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing

Recycling Practices 56

Contents ix

3.7 Textile Waste 57

3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals,

and Water 58

3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58

3.8.2 Geotextiles 58

3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse

in a Textile Industry 58

3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60

3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62

3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62

3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62

3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62

3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62

3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63

3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63

3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63

3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards,

Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64

3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64

3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization,

and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64

3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64

3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65

3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66

3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66

3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66

3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66

3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69

3.12 Conclusion 69

References 70

4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73

Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit

4.1 Introduction 74

4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75

4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75

4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76

4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78

4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78

4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79

4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79

x Contents

4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80

4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81

4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles

From Crop Waste 81

4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82

4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82

4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83

4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83

4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84

4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco-

Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84

4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario

and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85

4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/

Biowastes 86

4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87

4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88

4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89

4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents:

Few Case Studies 90

4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed

Fashion Garments 93

4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural

Dyed Apparels 94

4.5 Conclusion 94

References 95

5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile

Waste for Better Fashion 101

Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas

5.1 Introduction 102

5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103

5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile

and Apparel Industries 105

5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105

5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107

5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using

Textile Waste 109

5.4.1 Anokhi 110

5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110

5.4.3 Everlane 112

Contents xi

5.4.4 Doodlage 112

5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113

5.4.6 Osklen 114

5.4.7 Raeburn 115

5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115

5.4.9 Bottletop 115

5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116

5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116

5.4.12 Raw Mango 116

5.4.13 Patagonia 116

5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117

5.5 Conclusion 117

References 118

6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123

Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik,

Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar

6.1 Introduction 124

6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126

6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized

Textile Sectors 127

6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127

6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129

6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129

6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131

6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131

6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study

on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132

6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133

6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133

6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136

6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138

6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using

Natural Resources 139

6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile

Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139

6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric

Using Natural Resources 144

6.10 Conclusions 147

Acknowledgments 147

References 147

xii Contents

7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century

on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151

Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar,

Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj

7.1 Introduction 152

7.2 Importance of Recycling 152

7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153

7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154

7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154

7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable

Materials 155

7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156

7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158

7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159

7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160

7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161

7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164

7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166

7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166

7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167

7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167

7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169

7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170

7.13 Conclusions 174

Acknowledgments 174

References 175

8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177

Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal,

Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha

8.1 Introduction 177

8.2 Sustainability 178

8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar

of Sustainability 179

8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179

8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion

Industry 180

8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182

8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182

8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182

Contents xiii

8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182

8.5.2.1 Recycle 183

8.5.2.2 Reuse 184

8.5.2.3 Reduce 184

8.5.3 Upcycling 185

8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185

8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186

8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187

8.6 Advance Technologies 188

8.6.1 Foam Technology 188

8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188

8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189

8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189

8.7 Eco-Labeling 189

8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190

8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190

8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190

8.10.1 Cartina 191

8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191

8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191

8.10.4 Piñatex 192

8.10.5 Polylana 192

8.10.6 Seacell 193

8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193

8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under

the Fashion Industry 193

8.12 Conclusions 194

References 195

9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199

Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity,

Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar

9.1 Introduction 199

9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200

9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200

9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202

9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203

9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203

9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing

Strategies 204

9.4 Conclusions 210

References 211

xiv Contents

10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration—

Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215

Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit

10.1 Introduction 216

10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218

10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218

10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219

10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220

10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes

and Natural Mordants 222

10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225

10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226

10.6 Conclusion 230

References 231

11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235

Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray

11.1 Introduction 236

11.2 Linear Economy 236

11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238

11.4 Circular Economy 238

11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241

11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile

and Fashion Industry 242

11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244

11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245

11.5.4 Opportunities 247

11.6 Conclusion 248

References 249

12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile

and Fashion 253

Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey

12.1 Introduction 253

12.2 Marketing Mix 255

12.2.1 Product 256

12.2.2 Price 257

12.2.3 Place 258

12.2.4 Promotion 258

12.3 Market Analysis 259

12.3.1 Industry Overview 260

Contents xv

12.3.2 Target Market 260

12.3.3 Competition 261

12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261

12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile

and Fashion 263

12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266

12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266

12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266

12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267

12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268

12.6 Conclusions 273

References 274

13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion

and Apparels Marketplace 277

M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha

13.1 Introduction 278

13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278

13.3 Materials and Methods 280

13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280

13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280

13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280

13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281

13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281

13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281

13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural

Resources 289

13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290

13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel

Consumable Products 291

13.7 Conclusions 295

References 296

14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299

Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit,

Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity

14.1 Introduction 299

14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300

14.2.1 Cotton 303

xvi Contents

14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303

14.2.3 New Fibers 304

14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306

14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308

14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308

14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310

14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310

14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310

14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310

14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311

14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311

14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312

14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312

14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313

14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313

14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313

14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314

14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315

14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316

14.4.2 Space Suit 316

14.4.3 End of Life 316

14.5 Conclusions 317

References 318

15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards

Best Solution 321

Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit

and Kunal Singha

15.1 Introduction 322

15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323

15.2.1 Prevention 323

15.2.2 Minimization 324

15.2.3 Reuse 324

15.2.4 Recycling 324

15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324

15.2.6 Disposal 325

15.3 Textile Materials 325

15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326

15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326

15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327

15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328

Contents xvii

15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329

15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling

Textile Waste 330

15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330

15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331

15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333

15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336

15.6 Challenges 337

15.7 Conclusions 337

References 338

16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341

Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey,

Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath

16.1 Introduction 342

16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343

16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches

and Compensations 345

16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346

16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347

16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348

16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349

16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350

16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350

16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351

16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352

16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353

16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353

16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355

16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355

16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356

16.15 Conclusion 356

Acknowledgement 357

References 357

17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes

for Textiles 363

Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman,

Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan

17.1 Introduction 364

17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364

xviii Contents

17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364

17.3.1 Alizarin 364

17.3.2 Berberine 365

17.3.3 Bixin 366

17.3.4 Brazilein 368

17.3.5 Carotenoids 368

17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369

17.3.7 Carotene 370

17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371

17.3.9 Curcumin 371

17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372

17.3.11 Indigoids 373

17.3.12 Indigo 373

17.3.13 Juglone 374

17.3.14 Lawsone 374

17.3.15 Lycopene 375

17.3.16 Morin 375

17.3.17 Quercetin 376

17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376

17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377

17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377

17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377

17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377

17.6 Biomordanting 377

17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378

17.7.1 Conventional Method 378

17.7.2 Modern Methods 379

17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379

17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380

17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381

17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381

17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381

17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381

17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382

17.8.3 Neem 383

17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384

17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384

17.8.6 Process Optimization 385

17.9 Conclusion 385

References 385

Contents xix

18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation

of Textile Effluents 391

Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf,

Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz

18.1 Introduction 392

18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392

18.2.1 Physical Methods 393

18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393

18.2.3 Biological Methods 393

18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393

18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394

18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394

18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395

18.4.1 Straws 396

18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw

in Wastewater Treatment 396

18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398

18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves

in Treatment of Wastewater 398

18.4.3 Stems 401

18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water

Remediation 401

18.4.4 Barks 403

18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment

Methods of Textile Wastewater 404

18.4.5 Nut Shells 404

18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater

Remediation 407

18.4.6 Peels 407

18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408

18.4.7 Bagasse 409

18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment

Methods 410

18.4.8 Husks 411

18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater

Treatment 411

18.5 Conclusion 412

References 412

xx Contents

19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation

and Applications 423

Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor,

Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin

19.1 Introduction 424

19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424

19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424

19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425

19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426

19.3.1 Conventional Method 426

19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426

19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426

19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426

19.3.2 Modern Method 427

19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427

19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427

19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427

19.4 Mordanting 427

19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428

19.4.2 Biomordanting 428

19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428

19.5.1 Marigold 429

19.5.2 Pomegranate 431

19.5.3 Safflower 432

19.5.4 Acacia 434

19.5.5 Neem 436

19.5.6 Arjun 438

19.5.7 Saffron 439

19.5.8 Hermal 441

19.5.9 Turmeric 442

19.5.10 Annatto 443

19.5.11 Madder 445

19.5.12 Ratanjot 446

19.6 Conclusion 448

References 448

Index 457