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Dance like a fiend, swim laps, and climb trees -- all under the roof of one nightclub in Quimper; eat delicious homestyle Senegalese dishes in the same block as an underground gothic gay/lesbian disco; take a boat ride on the windy Atlantic to see an island prison that took so long to build, it never housed a single being; learn to speak Breton in a local bar; or sit at an outdoor brassiere to watch flame spitters, fire eaters, and dog trainers while you enjoy a pint of delicious Chimay beer.

Amanda Buttinger lives on the coast of summer outdoor cafes in thecapital of Spain with a Basque star of the stage. She doesn't get hungry forlunch until at least two and has made savoring café con leche after the mealand digesting every other moment in life a profession. Along with havinga new sobrin@, there are plenty of Spanish tapas and wine on the menuin her future. She continues to be seduced by travel writing. Everytimeshe says it's the last...till they ask her again. In the meantime, she's workin'like she doesn't need the money, lovin' like she's never been hurt, anddancin' like she's under the spotlight.

list of maps

ix

foreword

xiii

introduction

xv

the best of france

xix

paris and ile-de-france

1

(70)

paris

7

(50)

versailles

57

(7)

fontainebleu

64

(1)

chartres

65

(6)

the north

71

(32)

lille

76

(10)

amiens

86

(6)

calais

92

(2)

boulogne-sur-mer

94

(5)

le Touquet

99

(4)

champagne

103

(20)

reims

107

(7)

epernay

114

(9)

alsace-lorraine

123

(48)

alsace

127

(1)

metz

128

(7)

nancy

135

(13)

lorraine

147

(1)

strasbourg

148

(16)

mulhouse

164

(4)

colmar

168

(3)

burgundy

171

(18)

dijon

177

(8)

beaune

185

(4)

massif central/auvergne

189

(24)

clermont-ferrand

195

(8)

parc naturel regional des volcans d'auvergne

203

(2)

le puy En velay

205

(8)

the rhone valley & The french alps

213

(70)

rhone valley

219

(1)

lyon

220

(24)

the alps

243

(1)

grenoble

244

(17)

annecy

261

(8)

chamonix

269

(8)

evian

277

(6)

provence

283

(52)

marseille

288

(17)

aix-en-provence

305

(9)

arles

314

(7)

the camargue

321

(3)

avignon

324

(11)

cote d'azur & french riviera

335

(62)

nice

341

(20)

monaco

361

(12)

cannes

373

(12)

st. Tropez

385

(12)

languedoc-roussillon & The Pyrenees

397

(52)

montpellier

403

(20)

toulouse

423

(18)

foix

441

(8)

the basque coast

449

(34)

bayonne

455

(6)

biarritz

461

(11)

anglet

472

(4)

saint-jean-pied-de-port

476

(7)

bordeaux wine country & The mid-atlantic coast

483

(40)

bordeaux

489

(21)

la rochelle

510

(13)

the loire valley

523

(30)

tours

528

(13)

angers

541

(12)

brittany

553

(34)

quimper

558

(16)

rennes

574

(13)

normandy

587

(77)

rouen

591

(10)

giverny

601

(1)

le havre

602

(8)

caen

610

(8)

cherbourg

618

(2)

mont st-michel

620

(44)

backmatter

planning your trip

623

(32)

france online

655

(9)

hostels appendix

664

(19)

glossary of useful french terms

683

(10)

about the authors

693

(2)

index

695

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