Skin Care Beyond The Basics

by Lees, Mark

• ISBN13: 9781418012342
• ISBN10: 1418012343
• Edition: 3rd
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2006-09-07
• Publisher: Milady

Summary

Skin Care: Beyond the Basics, 3e is an invaluable resource for both the student and the professional esthetician seeking practical information and the latest in skin care breakthroughs. Written by one of the country's most noted skin care specialists, this text presents the most up-to-date information available on acne, aging treatment, rosacea management, sensitive skin care, and plastic surgery patient care. New information on non-invasive anti-aging programs and new ingredient technologies are presented, as well as new photos to aid in skin analysis and the identification of various conditions. The text presents numerous examples and application techniques throughout, which can be utilized in daily practice.

Author Biography

Dr. Mark Lees is the President and CEO of Mark Lees Skin Care, Inc.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments	xiii
About the Author	xv
Letter to the Reader	xvii
Advanced Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin	1	(18)
The Structure of the Cell	2	(1)
A Day in the Life of a Cell	3	(1)
The Nucleus	4	(1)
Cell Specialization	4	(2)
Physiology of the Skin	6	(1)
The Epidermis	7	(2)
Specialized Cells and Pigmentation	9	(2)
Barrier Function of the Skin	11	(1)
Skin Penetration	12	(7)
Hygiene and Sterilization Techniques	19	(13)
Sterilization	21	(2)
Disposable Materials	23	(1)
Nondisposable Items	23	(3)
General Cleaning	26	(1)
About OSHA	27	(1)
Protecting You and Your Clients from Disease	27	(3)
In Conclusion	30	(2)
The Immune System	32	(11)
Components of the Immune System	33	(1)
How the Immune System Communicates with Itself	34	(1)
About Cancer	35	(2)
Free Radicals	37	(1)
How Medicine Helps the Immune System	38	(1)
The Immunity Role of the Skin	39	(1)
Autoimmune Diseases	40	(3)
AIDS and Communicable Diseases	43	(16)
Common Diseases That Affect the Skin-Care Practice	44	(1)
About AIDS	45	(1)
How People Get Infected with AIDS	46	(1)
Testing for the AIDS Virus	46	(1)
The Symptoms of HIV Infection	47	(1)
Treatment of AIDS and HIV Infection	48	(1)
Prevention of AIDS	49	(1)
Personal Precautions	50	(1)
Dispelling Myths about AIDS	50	(1)
AIDS and the Esthetician	50	(1)
Skin Symptoms Associated with AIDS	51	(3)
Skin Cancers Associated with AIDS	54	(1)
The Mental and Emotional State of Patients with AIDS	54	(1)
Handling Client Questions about AIDS	55	(1)
AIDS and the Future	55	(1)
About Hepatitis	55	(2)
AIDS/HIV Knowledge Quiz	57	(2)
Hormones	59	(17)
The Endocrine Glands	60	(2)
Hormones Produced by the Ovaries and Testes	62	(1)
Hormonal Phases of Life	63	(4)
Pregnancy	67	(3)
Premenstrual Syndrome	70	(1)
Birth Control Pills	71	(1)
Menopause	72	(1)
Skin Conditions Associated with Menopause	73	(1)
About Hirsutism	74	(1)
Obesity, Anorexia, and Hormones	75	(1)
Other Hormonal Disorders That Affect the Skin	75	(1)
Skin Analysis	76	(16)
Fitzpatrick Skin Typing	77	(1)
Esthetic Skin Typing	77	(3)
Skin Types versus Skin Conditions	80	(1)
The Analysis Procedure	80	(4)
Pore or Follicle-Related Conditions	84	(3)
Aging and Sun-Damage Conditions	87	(1)
Redness Conditions	87	(1)
Pigmentation Conditions	88	(1)
Skin Abnormalities	88	(2)
Medical Conditions of the Skin	90	(1)
Client Confidentiality	91	(1)
Recognize and Refer Medical Conditions	92	(14)
Primary and Secondary Lesions	93	(1)
Acne	94	(1)
Common Infections of the Skin	94	(6)
Common Reactions, Rashes, and Irritations	100	(2)
Vascular Lesions	102	(1)
Growths	103	(1)
Commonly Used Prescription Dermatological Drugs	104	(2)
Essential Knowledge of Chemistry	106	(11)
Principles of Chemistry	107	(4)
How Chemical Reactions Take Place	111	(1)
Chemicals Found in the Skin and Body	112	(1)
pH, Acids, and Bases	113	(2)
Chemical Terms Estheticians Should Know	115	(2)
Cosmetic Chemistry and Functional Ingredients	117	(14)
About Water	118	(1)
Emollients	119	(1)
Fatty Acids	120	(1)
Fatty Alcohols	120	(1)
Fatty Esters	121	(1)
Surfactants	121	(2)
Emulsifiers	123	(2)
Physical Emulsions	125	(1)
Solvents	125	(1)
Antimicrobials and Preservatives	125	(1)
Other Types of Preservatives	126	(1)
Chelating Agents	127	(1)
Buffering Agents	127	(1)
Gellants and Thickening Agents	127	(1)
Coloring Agents	127	(1)
High-Tech Vehicles	128	(1)
Micelles	129	(1)
Liposomes and Mircoencapsulation	129	(1)
Other Innovative Vehicles	130	(1)
Performance Ingredients and Active Ingredients	131	(19)
``Cosmeceutical'' Ingredients	132	(1)
Cleansing Agents	132	(2)
Performance Agents in Toners	134	(1)
A Word about Alcohol	134	(1)
Performance Ingredients for Dehydrated Skin	135	(1)
Other Humectants	136	(1)
Occlusives	136	(1)
Emollients	137	(1)
Products for Dry Skin	138	(1)
Ingredients for Aging Skin	138	(3)
More Anti-Aging Ingredients	141	(2)
Combining Anti-Aging Ingredients	143	(1)
Plant Extracts	143	(1)
Performance Ingredients for Sensitive Skin	144	(1)
Over-the-Counter Drugs	145	(2)
Performance Ingredients for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin	147	(1)
Conclusion	148	(2)
Skin-Care Products	150	(19)
A Visit to the Stockroom	151	(1)
Cleansers	152	(4)
Toners	156	(2)
Day Creams and Treatments	158	(2)
Night Creams and Treatments	160	(3)
About Ampoules and Serums	163	(1)
Special Creams and Treatments	164	(2)
How Products Are Developed	166	(3)
Claims in Cosmetics	169	(9)
Drug versus Cosmetic	170	(1)
Verbal Claims	171	(1)
The Labeling Law	172	(1)
Drug Labeling	173	(1)
Other Cosmetic Claims	174	(2)
Buying Products for Your Salon	176	(2)
Sensitive Skin, Allergies, and Irritants	178	(24)
Sensitive Skin	179	(1)
Analysis of Sensitive Skin	179	(1)
Sensitive Skin and Barrier Function	180	(1)
Respecting the Barrier Function	181	(1)
The Inflammation Cascade	181	(1)
Analysis Technique	182	(1)
Allergies, Irritants, and Contact Dermatitis	183	(1)
Irritant Reactions	184	(1)
Allergic Reactions	185	(1)
Common Allergens	185	(5)
Noncosmetic Allergies	190	(1)
Eyelid Dermatitis	191	(1)
Treatment Concepts for Sensitive Skin	192	(1)
Irritancy and Allergy Testing	193	(1)
Treatment Contraindications for Treating Sensitive Skin	194	(1)
Suggested Treatment for Sensitive Skin	194	(1)
If a Client Has a Reaction in the Treatment Room	195	(1)
Home Care Concepts for Sensitive Skin	196	(1)
Home Skin-Care Programs for Sensitive Skin	196	(3)
Consultation with the Client with Sensitive Skin	199	(1)
Medical Treatment of Allergies and Contact Dermatitis	199	(1)
External Factors That Influence Sensitivities	200	(1)
Summary	201	(1)
Rosacea	202	(13)
Causes of Rosacea	204	(1)
Lifestyle Triggers for Rosacea Flushing and Flares	204	(7)
The Role of the Esthetician in Rosacea Management	211	(1)
Choosing Skin-Care Products for Clients with Rosacea	212	(1)
Step-by-Step Home Care Recommendation for Clients with Rosacea	213	(1)
Salon Treatment for Patients with Rosacea	213	(1)
Light-Emitting Diode Treatment for Redness	214	(1)
Get to Know the Rosacea Skin	214	(1)
Acne and the Esthetician	215	(34)
Common Acne	216	(1)
Hereditary Factors in Acne	216	(1)
Noninflammatory and Inflammatory Acne Lesions	216	(10)
Environmental Factors That Influence Acne	226	(1)
Overcleaning	227	(1)
Self-Trauma Excoriations	227	(1)
Nutrition and Diet	228	(1)
Acne and Cosmetics	229	(1)
Acne-Related Conditions	229	(2)
Concepts of Acne Treatment	231	(2)
Treatment Products and Ingredients for Acne	233	(1)
Products for Home Care for Clients with Acne	234	(5)
Drugs Often Prescribed by the Dermatologist for Acne Treatment	239	(4)
Dermatological Treatment of Cysts	243	(1)
Light Therapy for Acne	244	(1)
Analysis Technique for Acne or Problem Skin	244	(3)
Using Glycolic and Other Peels for Acne	247	(2)
Comedogenicity	249	(15)
Background	250	(2)
Testing for Comedogenicity	252	(1)
Other Tests	253	(1)
Types of Ingredients That Are Often Comedogenic	254	(2)
Chemistry behind Comedogenicity	256	(1)
Comedogenic Product Analysis	257	(3)
Dehydrated, Clogged Skin	260	(1)
Clinical Comedogenics	261	(1)
Client Product Analysis	262	(2)
Extraction	264	(16)
Analysis of the Need for Extraction	265	(3)
Open Comedones	268	(1)
Presoftening before Extraction	268	(1)
Other Pre-Extraction Procedures	269	(1)
Hygiene and Extraction	270	(1)
Extraction of Open Comedones	270	(1)
Closed Comedones	271	(1)
Extraction of Closed Comedones	272	(1)
Extraction of Pustules	273	(1)
Facial Treatment before and after Extraction	273	(1)
Extraction of Milia	274	(3)
Lesions around the Eyes	277	(1)
Treating Clogged and Dehydrated Skin	278	(1)
Solar Blackheads	278	(1)
Duration of Extraction	278	(2)
The Intrinsic Aging Process	280	(11)
Heredity	281	(1)
What Causes Aging?	282	(1)
Prevention of Aging Skin	283	(2)
The Beginning of Aging	285	(1)
Dermal and Epidermal Structural Changes	286	(1)
``Age Spots''	286	(1)
Psychological Effects of Aging	286	(1)
Home Care for the Aging Client	287	(1)
Facial Treatments for Aging Skin	287	(4)
Sun and Sun Damage	291	(18)
Short-Term Sun Problems	292	(4)
Long-Term Photo Damage	296	(1)
Skin Cancers and Other Sun-Related Skin Growths	297	(5)
Prevention of Sun Damage	302	(2)
Sun Skin Types	304	(1)
Types of Suncreens	305	(1)
Time of Day and the Sun	305	(1)
Frequent Misconceptions about Sun Damage and Sunbathing	305	(1)
The Quest for the Golden Tan	306	(3)
The New Science of Aging Skin Treatment	309	(16)
Photo Damage	310	(1)
The New Science of Aging Skin Treatment	310	(1)
Analysis of Photoaging Skin	310	(2)
The Treatment of Photoaging Skin	312	(11)
Prevention Is Still the Best Treatment	323	(2)
Chemical Peeling and Exfoliation Procedures	325	(19)
Surface Exfoliation	326	(2)
Salon Exfoliation Treatments	328	(2)
Alphahydroxy and Glycolic Peeling Treatments	330	(6)
Stronger Peeling Treatments	336	(3)
The Pre-Peel Consultation	339	(1)
The Superficial Peeling Procedure	339	(4)
After the Treatment	343	(1)
Reactions to Peeling	343	(1)
Treating the Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery Patient	344	(30)
Concerns of the Patient	345	(1)
Plastic Surgery	345	(1)
Types of Surgeons	345	(1)
Common Types of Cosmetic Surgery	346	(15)
Esthetic Management of the Post-Laser Patient	361	(2)
Procedures for the Esthetician	363	(5)
Other Surgical Procedures	368	(4)
Referrals	372	(2)
Cosmetic Medicine and Medical Relations	374	(14)
How Estheticians Work with Physicians	375	(1)
Medical Training	375	(1)
Other Doctors	375	(1)
What Is ``Paramedical'' Esthetics?	376	(1)
Cosmetic Dermatology and Medical Spas	376	(4)
Establishing a Relationship with a Doctor	380	(2)
What Doctors Like . . . and Don't Like	382	(1)
Your First Contact with a Dermatologist	383	(1)
Doctors' Concerns	384	(1)
How to Refer a Client	385	(1)
Some Common Problems	385	(2)
Working with the Plastic Surgeon	387	(1)
The Scientific Approach	388	(6)
The Scientific Method	389	(1)
Evaluating Products	390	(4)
Bibliography and Recommended Readings	394	(3)
Index	397