Sunday Suppers at Lucques Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table: A Cookbook

by Goin, Suzanne; Gelber, Teri; Waters, Alice

• ISBN13: 9781400042159
• ISBN10: 1400042151
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2005-11-08
• Publisher: Knopf

Summary

Few chefs in America have won more acclaim than Suzanne Goin, owner of Lucques restaurant. A chef of impeccable pedigree, she got her start cooking at some of the best restaurants in the worldL'Arpege. Olives, and Chez Panisse, to name a fewplaces where she acquired top-notch skills to match her already flawless culinary instincts. "A great many cooks have come through the kitchen at Chez Panisse," observes the legendary Alice Waters, "But Suzanne Goin was a stand-out. We all knew immediately that one day she would have a restaurant of her own, and that other cooks would be coming toherfor kitchen wisdom and a warm welcome." And come they have, in droves. Since opening her L.A. restaurant, Lucques, in 1998, Goin's cooking has garnered extraordinary accolades. Lucques is now recognized as one of the best restaurants in the country, and she is widely acknowledged as one of the most talented chefs around. Goin's gospel is her commitment to the freshest ingredients available; her way of combining those ingredients in novel but impeccably appropriate ways continues to awe those who dine at her restaurant. Her Sunday Supper menus at Lucquesever changing and always tied to the produce of the seasonhave drawn raves from all quarters: critics, fellow chefs, and Lucques's devoted clientele. Now, in her long-awaited cookbook,Sunday Suppers at Lucques,Goin offers the general public, for the first time, the menus that have made her famous. This inspired cookbook contains: 132 recipes in all, arranged into four-course menus and organized by season. Each recipes contains detailed instructions that distill the creation of these elegant and classy dishes down to easy-to-follow steps. Recipes include: Braised Beef Shortribs with Potato Puree and Horseradish Cream; Cranberry Walnut Clafoutis; Warm Crepes with Lemon Zest and Hazelnut Brown Butter 75 full-color photographs that illustrate not only the beauty of the food but the graceful plating techniques that Suzanne Goin is known for A wealth of information on seasonal produceeverything from reading a ripe squash to making the most of its flavors. She even tells us where to purchase the best fruit, vegetables, and pantry items Detailed instruction on standard cooking techniques both simple and involved, from making breadcrumbs to grilling duck A foreword by Alice Waters, owner and head chef of Chez Panisse restaurant and mentor to Suzanne Goin (one-time Chez Panisse line cook) With this book, Goin gives readers a sublime collection of destined-to-be-classic recipes. More than that, however, she offers advice on how home cooks can truly enjoy the process of cooking and make that process their own. One Sunday with Suzanne Goin is guaranteed to change your approach to cookingnot to mention transform your results in the kitchen. From the Hardcover edition.

Author Biography

Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.

Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.

Table of Contents

Foreword	p. xiv
Acknowledgments	p. xvi
Introduction	p. 2
Year-Round Produce	p. 10
Pantry	p. 14
Techniques	p. 20
Spring
Spring Introduction	p. 28
Spring Market	p. 30
Endive Salad with Meyer Lemon, Fava Beans, and Oil-Cured Olives	p. 37
Hawaiian Snapper with Green Rice and Cucumbers in Creme Fraiche	p. 39
Leg of Lamb with Chorizo Stuffing, Romesco Potatoes, and Black Olives	p. 41
Vanilla Semifreddo with Rhubarb Compote	p. 45
St. Patrick's Day
McGrath Farms' Watercress Soup with Gentleman's Relish Toast	p. 47
Buttered Cockles with Peas, Pea Shoots, Green Garlic Champ, and Brown Scones	p. 49
Corned Beef and Cabbage with Parsley-Mustard Sauce	p. 52
Chocolate-Stout Cake with Guinness Ice Cream	p. 55
Swiss Chard Tart with Goat Cheese, Currants, and Pine Nuts	p. 57
Wild Striped Bass with Farro, Black Rice, Green Garlic, and Tangerine	p. 59
Boeuf a la Nicoise: Braised Beef Stew with Red Wine, Tomato, Olives, and Buttered Noodles	p. 63
Tangelo "Creamsicles" with Lindsay's Sugar Cookies	p. 66
Fava Bean Puree with Oil-Cured Olives, French Feta, and Garlic Toasts	p. 68
Dungeness Crab Salad with Avocado, Beets, Creme Fraiche, and Lime	p. 71
Saffron Chicken with Parmesan Pudding, Spring Onions, and Sugar Snap Peas	p. 72
Tarte au Fromage with Lemon Cream and Blueberry Compote	p. 75
Ragout of Morels with Creme Fraiche, Soft Herbs, and Toasted Brioche	p. 77
Sauteed Alaskan Black Cod with Endive and Hazelnuts	p. 78
Orecchiette Carbonara with English Peas and Pea Shoots	p. 80
Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta with Strawberries	p. 82
Prosciutto and Grilled Asparagus with Whole Grain Mustard	p. 85
Halibut with Fingerlings, Fava Beans, Meyer Lemon, and Savory Creme Fraiche	p. 86
Veal Osso Buco with Saffron Risotto, English Peas, and Pea Shoots	p. 89
Roman Cherry Tart with Almond Crust and Almond Ice Cream	p. 93
Saute of White Asparagus, Morels, and Ramps over Polenta	p. 96
Wild Salmon Salad with Beets, Potato, Egg, and Mustard Vinaigrette	p. 99
Glazed Duck Confit with Black Rice, Mizuna, and Cherries	p. 101
Coconut Flan with Apricots and Beaumes de Venise	p. 103
Mother's Day
Curried English Pea Soup with Creme Fraiche	p. 106
Lobster Chopped Salad with Fava Beans, Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado, Corn, and Applewood-Smoked Bacon	p. 107
Grilled Skirt Steak with Artichoke-Potato Hash and Black Olive Aioli	p. 109
1970s Moms' Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake	p. 112
Summer
Summer Introduction	p. 116
Summer Market	p. 118
Green Goddess Salad with Romaine, Cucumbers, and Avocado	p. 126
Soft-Shell Crabs with Lima Bean Salad, Grilled Bacon, and Cornbread	p. 127
Veal Scaloppine with Fresh Corn Polenta and Salsa Verde-Brown Butter	p. 131
Plum Sorbet Sandwiches with Mary Jones from Cleveland's Molasses Cookies	p. 133
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Burrata, Torn Croutons, and Opal Basil	p. 135
Wild Salmon a la Lutece with Sweet Corn, Green Cabbage, and Brown Butter Vinaigrette	p. 138
Grilled Veal Chops with Summer Squash Gratin and Salsa Verde	p. 140
Almond Financier with Nectarines and Berries	p. 142
First-of-the-Season Succotash Salad	p. 144
Bucatini and Clams with Fennel, White Wine, and Thyme Breadcrumbs	p. 145
Grilled Pork Burgers with Rob's Famous Coleslaw	p. 147
Cornmeal Shortcakes with Peaches, Mint, and Soured Cream	p. 151
Father's Day
Dad's Steakhouse Salad: Early Girl Tomatoes, Red Onion, and Roquefort	p. 153
Grilled Bluefish Wrapped in Pancetta with Yellow Tomato Sauce and Aioli	p. 154
Herb-Roasted Pork Loin with Haricots Verts, Spring Onions, and Mustard Breadcrumbs	p. 157
Meringues "Closerie des Lilas" with Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce, and Toasted Almonds	p. 159
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho	p. 163
Grilled Halibut a la Nicoise with Haricots Verts, Olives, Cherry Tomatoes, and Anchovy Butter	p. 164
Lamb Skewers with Lima Bean Puree and French Feta Salsa Verde	p. 167
Raspberry Gratin	p. 169
Summer Fruit Salad with Arugula and Marcona Almonds	p. 171
Ricotta Gnocchi with Chanterelles, Sweet Corn, and Sage Brown Butter	p. 173
California Sea Bass Kabobs with Eggplant, Peppers, and Charmoula	p. 175
Plum Tarte Tatin with Creme Fraiche	p. 178
Sweet Corn Soup with Avocado Cream and Cilantro	p. 180
Santa Barbara Spot Prawns with Tomato Confit, Garlic, and Chile	p. 181
Bistecca California with Peperonata, Baked Ricotta, and Lemon	p. 185
Ode to Hadley's: Date Shake with Candied Walnut Wedge	p. 187
Tomato Tart with Capers, Anchovies, and Caramelized Onions	p. 189
Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs	p. 191
Lamb Osso Buco with Shell Bean Ragout, Haricots Verts, and Tapenade	p. 192
Fig-and-Almond Custard Tart	p. 195
Fall
Fall Introduction	p. 200
Fall Market	p. 202
Chilled Red Pepper Soup with Sumac, Basil, and Lemon Yogurt	p. 209
Warm Squid Salad with Spinach, Chorizo, and Black Olives	p. 211
Grilled Pork Confit with Braised Rice Soubise and Roasted Figs	p. 213
Pastel Vasco with Blackberry Compote and Poured Cream	p. 217
Richard Olney's Figs and Prosciutto with Melon	p. 219
Grilled Tuna with Potato-Tomato Gratin and Rouille	p. 220
Tunisian Lamb-and-Eggplant Stew with Farro, Parsley, and Harissa	p. 223
Date Butter Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream	p. 226
Roasted Pear Salad with Endive, Hazelnuts, and St. Agur	p. 228
Pappardelle with Wild Mushrooms, Shell Beans, and Parmesan	p. 230
Grilled Pancetta-Wrapped Trout with Verjus, Crushed Grapes, and Fennel Gratin	p. 232
Vanilla Pot de Creme with Chocolate Sables	p. 235
Warm Kabocha Squash Salad with Dandelion, Bacon, Roncal, and Pecans	p. 237
California Sea Bass with Shell Bean Risotto and Gremolata Butter	p. 240
Pork Porterhouse with Sauteed Quince, Apples, and Potatoes	p. 242
Cranberry-Walnut Clafoutis with Bourbon Whipped Cream	p. 245
Coleman Farm's Treviso with Gorgonzola, Walnuts, and Saba	p. 246
Spiced Snapper with Carrot Puree and Gingered Beets	p. 247
Braised Chicken with Saffron Onions, Italian Couscous, and Dates	p. 249
Olive Oil Cake with Creme Fraiche and Candied Tangerines	p. 253
Warm Wild Mushroom Salad with Soft Herbs, Pecorino, and Hazelnuts	p. 255
Grilled Quail with Pancetta, Ricotta Pudding, and Sicilian Breadcrumbs	p. 257
Pan-Roasted Rib Eye Steak "Marchand de Vins" with Watercress and Grossi's Potatoes	p. 260
Caramel-Nut Tart with Milk Chocolate and Cognac Cream	p. 263
Roasted Beet Salad with Fried Chickpeas, Nyons Olives, and Ricotta Salata	p. 265
Mussels and Clams with Vermouth, Cannellini Beans, and Cavolo Nero	p. 268
Grilled Duck Breasts with Creme Fraiche, Roasted Grapes, and Potato-Bacon Gratin	p. 271
Sbrisolona with Moscato d'Asti Zabaglione	p. 274
Barbara's Apples and Asian Pears with Radicchio, Mint, and Buttermilk Dressing	p. 276
Sauteed Skate with Parsnip Puree, Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta, and Balsamic Brown Butter	p. 278
Spiced Pork Stew with Polenta, Root Vegetables, and Gremolata	p. 281
"Pumpkin" Cake with Pecan Streusel and Maple Ice Cream	p. 284
Winter
Winter Introduction	p. 290
Winter Market	p. 292
Young Onion Tart with Cantal, Applewood-Smoked Bacon, and Herb Salad	p. 297
Taylor Bay Scallops with Chanterelles, Sherry, and Parsley Breadcrumbs	p. 299
Braised Beef Short Ribs with Potato Puree, Swiss Chard, and Horseradish Cream	p. 301
Warm Crepes with Lemon Zest and Hazelnut Brown Butter	p. 304
James's Broccoli with Burrata, Pine Nuts, and Warm Anchovy Vinaigrette	p. 306
Torchio with Cauliflower, Cavolo Nero, Currants, and Pine Nuts	p. 308
Chicken Paillards with Parmesan Breadcrumbs, Escarole, Capers, and Rosemary	p. 310
Jessica's Favorite Meyer Lemon Tart with a Layer of Chocolate	p. 313
Persimmon and Pomegranate Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts	p. 315
Grilled Halibut with Herb Salad and Meyer Lemon-Green Olive Salsa	p. 316
Cured Pork Chops with Sweet Potatoes, Bacon, and Romesco	p. 318
Churros y Chocolate	p. 321
Kabocha Squash and Fennel Soup with Creme Fraiche and Candied Pumpkin Seeds	p. 323
Devil's Chicken Thighs with Braised Leeks and Dijon Mustard	p. 326
Braised Beef Brisket with Beluga Lentils, Horseradish Cream, and Salsa Verde	p. 329
Toasted Pain d'Epice with Kumquat Marmalade Butter	p. 332
Beets and Tangerines with Mint and Orange-Flower Water	p. 334
Australian Barramundi with Winter Vegetables Bagna Cauda and Toasted Breadcrumbs	p. 335
Herb-Roasted Rack of Lamb with Flageolet Gratin, Roasted Radicchio, and Tapenade	p. 338
Gateau Basque with Armagnac Prunes	p. 341
Blood Oranges, Dates, Parmesan, and Almonds	p. 343
Grilled Squab with Farro, Kabocha Squash, Cavolo Nero, and Pomegranate Salsa	p. 346
Portuguese-Style Pork and Clams with Chorizo and Fried Potatoes	p. 349
Caramelized Bread Pudding with Chocolate and Cinnamon	p. 353
Wild Mushroom Tart with Gruyere, Young Onions, and Herb Salad	p. 355
Winter Squash Risotto with Radicchio and Parmesan	p. 357
Duck Braised in Banyuls and Turnip-Parsnip Gratin with Prunes	p. 358
Roasted Apples with Calvados and Cinnamon Ice Cream	p. 361
Schaner Farm's Avocado and Citrus Salad with Green Olives	p. 364
Sauteed Halibut with Arugula, Roasted Beets, and Horseradish Creme Fraiche	p. 366
Grilled Veal Chops with Chestnut Stuffing and Pickled Golden Raisins	p. 369
Hazelnut-Brown Butter Cake with Sauteed Pears	p. 372
Sources	p. 374
Index	p. 376
Table of Contents provided by Ingram. All Rights Reserved.

Excerpts

Caramelized Bread Pudding with Chocolate and Cinnamon

This recipe is a lifer. I’ve been making it for more than 20 years, and every time I try to file it away, someone inevitably comes along asking for it. I brought it to my first staff get-together when I was working at Chez Panisse and, from then on, for all of the parties that followed, when I would even think of making something different, my friends and coworkers would cry out for this caramelized chocolate bread pudding. A few years later, the bread pudding gained an East Coast fan club, too. I was working at Alloro, a tiny restaurant in Boston’s Italian district. Back then, the Mafia owned all the local cafés and had a monopoly on the dessert-and-coffee crowd. Whereas the other (probably wiser) restaurants on the street obeyed the unspoken law of not selling dessert, at Alloro we broke the rule and secretly served this bread pudding to our in-the-know customers. We worked hard to keep the highly requested dessert under cover, and it seems we succeeded: both the recipe and I are still around.

A few things make this bread pudding better than most. I love custards and am often disappointed by bread puddings with too much bread and not enough pudding. So be careful to use just a single layer of brioche, which creates a crispy crust but won’t absorb all the rich, silky custard underneath. Once you break through the caramelized, toasty top layer and dig down through the luscious custard, a treasure of melted chocolate awaits you at the bottom.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
4 or 5 slices brioche, or good quality white bread (I like Pepperidge Farm), 1/4-inch thick, crusts removed
3 extra-large eggs
2 extra-large egg yolks
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
1 tablespoon granulated sugar, for caramelizing the top

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the softened butter on one side of the brioche. Cut each slice in half on the diagonal and then again into quarters.

Whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and brown sugar in a large bowl. Add the cream, milk, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt, whisking to combine well.

Sprinkle the chocolate over the bottom of a 9-by-9-inch (or equivalent) baking dish. Arrange the brioche, buttered side up, with slices overlapping just slightly, on the chocolate (there should be just a single layer of bread). Pour the custard over the bread, pressing down with your fingers to make sure the bread soaks it up. Place the bread pudding in a roasting pan, and pour warm water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the pudding dish. Bake about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until the custard is set and the bread puffs up slightly. The pudding will be springy to the touch.

Let the bread pudding cool at least 10 minutes.

If you have a kitchen blowtorch, sprinkle the sugar over the top, and torch to brown and caramelize. You could run the pudding under the broiler to caramelize if you don’t have a torch, but be careful not to curdle the custard underneath. Serve the bread pudding from the baking dish at the table, using a big spoon.


Sautéed Halibut with Arugula, Roasted Beets, and Horseradish Crème Fraîche


The colored beets and bright green arugula in this dish make for a visually stunning presentation. The sweet roasted beets marinated in lemon vinaigrette play off the pure white fish and horseradish cream. Look for a few different types of beets, such as golden beets and Chioggia beets, and dress them separately, so the dark ones don’t bleed their juices onto the lighter ones. In the spring, you could make this dish with wild salmon.

NOTE
Season the fish with lemon zest and herbs, roast the beets, and make the vinaigrette and horseradish cream in advance. When it’s time for dinner, all you’ll have to do is sauté the fish and dress the beets.

6 halibut fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each
1 lemon, zested
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces arugula, cleaned
Roasted beets with horseradish crème fraîche (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons super-good extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Season the fish with the lemon zest, thyme, and parsley. Cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

Remove the fish from the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking, to bring it to room temperature.

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches or in two pans.) Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Swirl the regular extra-virgin olive oil into the pan and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until it’s lightly browned. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a few more minutes, until it’s almost cooked through. Be careful not to overcook the fish. When it’s done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little, and the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the halibut will continue to cook for a bit once you take it out of the pan.

Scatter half of the arugula over a large platter. Arrange the beets on top, and drizzle with half the horseradish cream. Tuck the rest of the arugula among the beets, so you can see the beets peeking through. Nestle the fish in the salad, and spoon a little horseradish cream over each piece. Drizzle the whole dish with the super-good olive oil and a big squeeze of lemon.



Roasted Beets with Horseradish Crème Fraîche


4 bunches different-colored beets
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon diced shallot, plus 1/4 cup sliced shallots
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
1/4 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut off the beet greens, leaving 1/2 inch of the stems still attached. (You can save the leaves for sauteing later—they are delicious!) Clean the beets well, and toss them with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt.

Place the beets in a roasting pan with a splash of water in the bottom. Cover the pan tightly with foil, and roast for about 40 minutes, until they’re tender when pierced. (The roasting time will depend on the size and type of beet.) When the beets are done, carefully remove the foil. Let cool, and peel the beets by slipping off the skins with your fingers. Cut them into 1/2-inch-thick wedges.

While the beets are in the oven, combine the diced shallot, both vinegars, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small bowl, and let sit 5 minutes. Whisk in the 1/2 cup olive oil. Taste for balance and seasoning.

Whisk the crème fraîche and horseradish together in a small bowl. Stir in the heavy cream, remaining 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper.

Toss the beets and sliced shallots with the vinaigrette. (If you’re using different-colored beets, dress each color in a separate bowl so the colors don’t bleed.) Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a pinch of freshly ground black pepper, and toss well. Taste for balance and seasoning.

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Excerpted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table by Suzanne Goin, Teri Gelber
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.