Surf Is Where You Find It

by Lopez, Gerry; Pezman, Steve; Machado, Rob

• ISBN13: 9781938340260
• ISBN10: 1938340264
• Edition: Revised
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2015-05-26
• Publisher: Patagonia

Summary

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Author Biography

Gerry Lopez made his reputation at Pipeline, then went on to a lifelong career in surfing, snowboarding, and stand-up-paddle. He cofounded Lightning Bolt® Maui surfboards, was instrumental in developing the high-performance shortboard, and has appeared in many films. He lives in Bend, OR.
Steve Pezman is the founder and has been the editor of The Surfer’s Journal since 1992. He lives in San Clemente, CA.

Table of Contents

I. introduction
Sweet Candy Days
Pakala
A First Time at the Pipeline
II. The boys
RB
A Giant Among Men
No Prisoners
Flippy, Pipe Days
Jan’s Board
The Track of the Cat
Momentary Entertainment
Herbie
The Fastest Wave in the World
Whitey and the Duke
Dr. Surf
Coming Down
Big Wally
III. All shook up
Everything Bad Goes Down in Parking Lots
Cannons
The Big Swim
Caught Inside Again
Incident at Eke Moku
G-Land
The Mother of All Pipeline Swells
A Good Day to Die

IV. traveling for surf
Tales of Indonesia
Treasure Islands
The Mile Long Rides
Chile

V. surf is where you find it
The Demise of the Ditch
A Big Score
Keep Paddling
The Gorge

VI. just for fun
The Country
The Money Motive
The Best Surfer in the Flesh
A Saturday at Ala Moana
Get It While You Can
A Good Deal
The Last Laugh

VII. finally
The Coral Cruiser
Jungle Love