Surfing And the Meaning of Life

by Marcus, Ben

• ISBN13: 9780760326534
• ISBN10: 0760326533
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2006-08-31
• Publisher: Motorbooks Intl

Summary

"Out of the water, I am nothing."Duke Kahanamoku "Nothing can keep my out of the water."Tom Curren All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole styleeven a philosophyof life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your lifeor at least an enjoyable read. With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamiltonand with photographs that capture the thrill of the ridethis book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks inFade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humorand this one does, along with surfing's undeniable rush. The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."Nat Young

Author Biography

Ben Marcus grew up surfing Santa Cruz and Malibu.  He served ten years as associate editor at The Surfer magazine, and now writes for The Surfer’s Journal and other surf publications.  Marcus is the author of Voyageur’s Surfing USA!  He lives at the source in Malibu. Jeff Divine is one of surfing's most noted photographer's, with his work appearing in leading magazines for years.