Textiles

by Kadolph, Sara J.; Langford, Anna L.

• ISBN13: 9780130254436
• ISBN10: 0130254436
• Edition: 9th
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2002-01-01
• Publisher: Pearson College Div

Summary

This popular book, now in its&10th edition, considers textiles as the materials used to create apparel, furnishings, and industrial products. It approaches textiles from a product analysis approach, using professional terminology, and provides examples to illustrate key concepts. Flow charts on identifying fabric structure and naming fancy woven fabrics; other fabrication methods; and knits have been added. Also included are tables summarizing components such as fibers, yarns, fabric structure, and finishes. An expanded glossary makes it easier for readers to find pertinent information. For designers, technical designers, apparel engineers, and others in the fashion/apparel business.

Table of Contents

Preface	viii
SECTION ONE Introduction to Textiles	1	(14)
Introduction	3	(4)
Product Development from a Textile Perspective	7	(8)
Serviceability and the Consumer	9	(1)
Performance	10	(2)
Information Sources	12	(3)
SECTION TWO Fibers	15	(122)
Textile Fibers and Their Properties	17	(15)
Fiber Properties	18	(3)
Physical Structure
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement
Serviceability	21	(7)
Aesthetic Properties
Durability Properties
Comfort Properties
Appearance-Retention Properties
Resistance to Chemicals
Resistance to Light
Environmental Impact
Care Properties
Cost
Fiber Property Charts
Fiber Identification	28	(4)
Visual Inspection
Burn Test
Microscopy
Solubility Tests
Natural Cellulosic Fibers	32	(17)
Seed Fibers	33	(9)
Cotton
Production of Cotton
Physical Structure of Cotton
Classification of Cotton
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Cotton
Chemical Nature of Cellulose
Properties of Cotton
Environmental Impact of Cotton
Identification of Cotton
Uses of Cotton
Coir
Kapok
Bast Fibers	42	(5)
Flax
Structure of Flax
Properties of Flax
Environmental Impact of Flax
Identification Tests
Uses of Linen
Ramie
Properties of Ramie
Hemp
Jute
Kenaf
Leaf Fibers	47	(2)
Pina
Abaca
Sisal and Henequen
Other Cellulosic Materials	47	(2)
Natural Protein Fibers	49	(18)
Wool	50	(8)
Production of Wool
Types and Kinds of Wool
Physical Structure of Wool
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Wool
Properties of Wool
Environmental Impact of Wool
Uses of Wool
Specialty Wools	58	(3)
Mohair
Qiviut
Angora
Camel's Hair
Cashmere
Llama and Alpaca
Vicuna and Guanaco
Yak
Silk	61	(4)
Production of Silk
Physical Structure of Silk
Chemical Composition and Molecular Structure of Silk
Properties of Silk
Environmental Impact of Silk
Uses of Silk
Identification of Natural Protein Fibers	65	(2)
The Fiber Manufacturing Process	67	(12)
Fiber Spinning	69	(2)
Spinning Methods
Fiber Modifications	71	(5)
Spinneret Modifications
Molecular Structure and Crystallinity Modifications
Additives to the Polymer or Spinning Solution
Modifications in Fiber Spinning
Complex Modifications
Environmental Impact of Manufactured Fibers	76	(1)
Manufactured Fiber Consumption	77	(1)
Manufactured versus Natural Fibers	77	(2)
Manufactured Regenerated Fibers	79	(12)
Identification of Manufactured Fibers	80	(1)
Rayon	80	(4)
Production of Rayon
Physical Structure of Rayon
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Rayon
Properties of Rayon
Environmental Impact of Rayon
Uses of Rayon
Types and Kinds of Rayon
Lyocell	84	(2)
Production of Lyocell
Physical Structure of Lyocell
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Lyocell
Properties of Lyocell
Environmental Impact of Lyocell
Uses of Lyocell
Types and Kinds of Lyocell
Acetate	86	(3)
Production of Acetate
Physical Structure of Acetate
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Acetate
Properties of Acetate
Environmental Impact of Acetate
Uses of Acetate
Types and Kinds of Acetate
Other Regenerated Fibers	89	(2)
Synthetic Fibers	91	(30)
Synthetic Fibers: An Overview	92	(4)
Common Properties of Synthetic Fibers
Common Manufacturing Processes
Identification of Synthetic Fibers
Common Fiber Modifications
Nylon	96	(7)
Production of Nylon
Physical Structure of Nylon
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Nylon
Properties of Nylon
Environmental Impact of Nylon
Uses of Nylon
Types and Kinds of Nylon
Polyester	103	(6)
Production of Polyester
Physical Structure of Polyester
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Polyester
Properties of Polyester
Environmental Impact of Polyester
Uses of Polyester
Types and Kinds of Polyester
Olefin	109	(4)
Production of Olefin
Physical Structure of Olefin
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Olefin
Properties of Olefin
Environmental Impact of Olefin
Uses of Olefin
Acrylic	113	(5)
Production of Acrylic
Physical Structure of Acrylic
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Acrylic
Properties of Acrylic
Environmental Impact of Acrylic
Uses of Acrylic
Types and Kinds of Acrylic
Modacrylic Fibers	118	(3)
Production of Modacrylic Fibers
Physical Structure of Modacrylic Fibers
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Modacrylic Fibers
Properties of Modacrylic Fibers
Environmental Impact of Modacrylic Fibers
Uses of Modacrylic Fibers
Special-Use Fibers	121	(16)
Elastomeric Fibers	122	(3)
Rubber
Spandex
Elastoester
Fibers with Chemical, Heat, or Fire Resistance	125	(9)
Aramid
Glass
Metal and Metallic Fibers
Novoloid
PBI
Sulfar
Saran
Vinyon
Vinal
Fluoropolymer
Carbon
Melamine
Other Special-Use Fibers	134	(3)
SECTION THREE Yarns	137	(30)
Yarn Processing	139	(15)
Filament Yarns	140	(3)
Smooth-Filament Yarn
Monofilament Yarns
Tape and Network Yarns
Bulk Yarns
Spun Yarns	143	(6)
Processing Staple Fibers
Alternate Spun-Yarn Processes
Spinning Filament Tow into Spun Yarns
High-Bulk Yarns	149	(1)
Fiber Blends	150	(2)
Blend Levels
Blending Methods
Blended Filament Yarns
Environmental Impact of Yarn Processing	152	(2)
Yarn Classification	154	(13)
Fiber Length	155	(1)
Yarn Twist	155	(3)
Direction of Twist
Amount of Twist
Yarn Size	158	(1)
Yarn Number
Denier
Tex System
Yarn Regularity	159	(6)
Simple Yarns
Sewing Thread
Fancy Yarns
Composite Yarns
Yarn Performance and Yarn Quality	165	(2)
SECTION FOUR Fabrication	167	(100)
Basic Weaves and Fabrics	169	(28)
Fabric Quality	171	(1)
Woven Fabrics	171	(1)
The Loom	172	(4)
Preparing for Weaving
Loom Advancements
Environmental Impact of Weaving
Characteristics of Woven Fabrics	176	(3)
Warp and Filling
Grain
Fabric Count
Balance
Selvages
Fabric Width
Fabric Weight
Properties of Woven Fabrics	179	(1)
Naming and Diagramming Woven Fabrics	179	(3)
Plain Weave	182	(7)
Balanced Plain Weave
Unbalanced Plain Weave
Basket Weave
Twill Weave	189	(4)
Characteristics of Twill Weave
Even-Sided Twills
Warp-Faced Twills
Satin Weave	193	(4)
Satin Fabrics
Sateen
Fancy Weaves and Fabrics	197	(16)
Dobby Weaves	198	(4)
Extra-Yarn Weaves
Pique Weaves
Jacquard Weaves	202	(1)
Momie Weaves	203	(1)
Leno Weaves	204	(1)
Double Cloth	205	(2)
Doubles Weaves
Double-Faced Fabrics
Pile Weaves	207	(3)
Filling-Pile Fabrics
Warp-Pile Fabrics
Slack-Tension Weaves	210	(1)
Tapestry Weave	211	(1)
Narrow Fabrics	212	(1)
Knitting and Knit Fabrics	213	(26)
Knitting	215	(3)
Needles
Stitches
Fabric
Characteristics
Environmental Impact of Knitting
Filling (or Weft) Knitting	218	(12)
Machines Used in Filling Knitting
Filling-Knit Structures--Stitches
Filling-Knit Fabrics
Warp Knitting	230	(9)
Machines Used in Warp Knitting
Warp Knits versus Filling Knits
Warp-Knit Fabrics
Minor Warp Knits
Narrow Knitted Fabrics
Other Fabrication Methods	239	(28)
Fabrics from Solutions	240	(2)
Films
Foams
Fabrics from Fibers	242	(6)
Nonwoven or Fiberweb Structures
Felt
Netlike Structures
Fabrics from Yarns	248	(3)
Braids
Lace
Composite Fabrics	251	(12)
Coated Fabrics
Poromeric Fabrics
Suedelike Fabrics
Tufted-Pile Fabrics
Laminates
Stitch-Bonded Fabrics
Quilted Fabrics
Supported-Scrim Structures
Fiber-Reinforced Materials
Animal Products	263	(4)
Leather
Furs
SECTION FIVE Finishing	267	(74)
Finishing: An Overview	268	(12)
Routine Finishing Steps	272	(6)
Fiber Processing
Yarn Processing
Yarn Preparation
Fabrication
Fabric Preparation
Whitening
Further Preparation Steps
Coloration
Finishing
Drying Reworking
Routine Finishing Steps for Wool Fabrics	278	(1)
Carbonizing
Crabbing
Decating
Pressing
Environmental Impact of Finishing	278	(2)
Aesthetic Finishes	280	(16)
Luster	282	(3)
Glazed
Cire
Moire
Schreiner
Embossed
Drape	285	(1)
Crisp and Transparent
Burned Out
Sizing
Weighting
Texture	286	(7)
Sheared
Brushed
Embossed
Pleated
Puckered Surface
Plisse
Flocked
Tufted
Embroidered
Expanded Foam
Napped Fulled
Beetled
Coronized
Hand	293	(3)
Emerizing, Sueding, or Sanding
Abrasive, Chemical, or Enzyme Washes
Crepeing
Silk Boil-Off
Caustic Treatment
Hand Builders
Special-Purpose Finishes	296	(17)
Stabilization: Shrinkage Control	297	(3)
Relaxation Shrinkage and Finishes
Progressive Shrinkage and Finishes
Shape-Retention Finishes	300	(3)
Theory of Wrinkle Recovery
Durable Press
Quality Performance Standards and Care
Appearance-Retention Finishes	303	(2)
Soil- and Stain-Release Finishes
Abrasion-Resistant Finishes
Antislip Finishes
Fume Fading-Resistant Finishes
Surface or Back Coatings
Light-Stabilizing Finishes
Pilling-Resistant Finishes
Comfort-Related Finishes	305	(3)
Water-Repellent Finishes
Porosity-Control Finishes
Water-Absorbent Finishes
Ultraviolet-Absorbent Finishes
Antistatic Finishes
Fabric Softeners
Phase-Change Finishes
Biological Control Finishes	308	(1)
Insect- and Moth-Control Finishes
Mold- and Mildew-Control Finishes
Rot-Proof Finishes
Antimicrobial Finishes
Microencapsulated Finishes
Safety-Related Finishes	309	(4)
Flame-Retardant Finishes
Liquid-Barrier Finishes
Light-Reflecting Finishes
Dyeing and Printing	313	(28)
Color Theory	314	(1)
Colorants	315	(2)
Pigments
Dyes
Stages of Dyeing	317	(4)
Fiber Stage
Yarn Stage
Piece or Fabric Stage
Product Stage	321	(1)
Methods of Dyeing	321	(2)
Batch Dyeing
Package Dyeing
Combination Dyeing
Printing	323	(10)
Direct Printing
Discharge Printing
Resist Printing
Other Printing Methods
Recent Developments in Dyeing and Printing	333	(1)
Color Problems	333	(4)
Environmental Impact of Dyeing and Printing	337	(4)
SECTION SIX Other Issues Related to Textiles	341	(46)
Care of Textile Products	343	(15)
Factors Related to Cleaning	344	(3)
Soil and Soil Removal
Detergency
Solvents
Laundering	347	(4)
Synthetic Detergents and Soaps
Other Additives
Sorting
Washing	351	(1)
Horizontal- and Vertical-Axis Machines
Drying	352	(1)
Dry Cleaning	352	(2)
Dry Cleaning of Leather and Fur
Home Solvent Cleaning
Professional Wet Cleaning	354	(1)
Storage	354	(1)
Other Cleaning Methods	355	(1)
Vacuuming
Wet Cleaning
Dry Foam Cleaning
Hot-Water Extraction
Powder Clearners
Ultrasonic Cleaning
Conservation Practices	356	(1)
Environmental Impact of Cleaning	356	(2)
Legal and Environmental Concerns	358	(17)
Laws and Regulations	359	(6)
Silk Regulation, 1932
Wool Products Labeling Act, 1939 (Amended 1986)
Fur Products Labeling Act, 1952 (Amended 1980)
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, 1960 (Amended)
Permanent Care Labeling Regulation, 1972 (Amended 1984)
Laws and Regulations Related to Safety
Flammable Fabrics Act, 1953, and Its Amendment
Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)
Other Label Information	365	(1)
Mandatory and Voluntary Labeling Programs
Codes	366	(1)
Tort	367	(1)
Consumer Recourse	367	(1)
Environmental Issues	367	(8)
Environmental Impact
Efforts within the Textile Industry
Environmental Health and Safety
Disposal and Recycling
Career Exploration	375	(12)
Sourcing	376	(1)
Product Development	376	(2)
Quality Assurance	378	(1)
Research, Development, and Evaluation	378	(2)
Production	380	(1)
Design	380	(2)
Merchandising	382	(1)
Wholesaling	383	(1)
Marketing	383	(1)
Government	383	(1)
Education	384	(1)
Museum or Collection Work	384	(1)
Summary	384	(3)
Appendix A Fiber Names in Other Languages	387	(2)
Appendix B Fibers No Longer Produced in the United States	389	(2)
Appendix C Selected Trade Names	391	(2)
Glossary	393	(22)
Index	415

Excerpts

Pilosophy of this Book Textilesprovides students with a basic knowledge of textiles so that they understand how textiles are produced and how appropriate performance characteristics are incorporated into materials and products. With this knowledge, they have the foundation they need to make informed decisions regarding textile materials and products and to communicate effectively with buyers, suppliers, customers, and others. A solid understanding of textile components (fibers, yarns, fabrics, and finishes), the interrelationships among these components, and their impact on product performance is necessary to fulfill day-to-day responsibilities in many careers in the textile, apparel, and furnishings industry. Serviceability of textiles and textile products is the fundamental principle emphasized throughout the book. I discuss the contributions of each component as it is incorporated in or combined with other components in a textile product. I stress interrelationships among the components. Basic information regarding how each component is processed or handled helps in understanding product performance and cost. Production of textiles is a complex process dealing with a wide variety of materials and techniques. To understand textiles, students need a basic understanding of the choices and technology involved. This book will help students: use textile terminology correctly. know laws and labeling requirements regulating textile distribution. understand the impact of production processes and selection of components on product performance, cost, and consumer satisfaction. recognize the forces that drive industry developments. identify fiber type, yarn type, and fabrication method. predict fabric or product performance based on a knowledge of fibers, yarns, fabrication methods, and finishes in conjunction with informative labeling. select textile components or products based on specified end uses and target market expectations for performance and serviceability. select appropriate care for textile products. develop an interest in and appreciation of textiles. Understanding textiles cannot be achieved only by studying this book; it also requires working with fabrics. Kits are available from several sources. In addition, many workbooks for lab use and self-study have been designed to help students learn this information. Organization of this Book Each section of the book focuses on a basic component or aspect of fabrics and textile products or on general issues important to the use of, production of, or satisfaction with textile products. These sections are complete and can be used in any order desired. The four main sections follow the normal sequence used in the production of textiles: fiber, yarn, fabrication, and finishing. The first section of the book introduces the study of textiles and approaches product development from a textile perspective. Section Two focuses on fibers, their production, serviceability, effect on product performance, and use. Several new fibers or new generic classifications have been added to this section. Section Three focuses on yarn production, yarn types, the relationship of yarn type to product performance and serviceability, and sewing thread. Section Four examines fabrication methods. These chapters are organized by basic fabrication method, standard or classic fabric names and types, and the relationships between fabrication and product performance. Flow charts to aid in identify* fabrics have been added. (More extensive flow charts are available in the instructor's manual.) Section Five deals with finishes, grouped by type or effect. Dyeing and printing are also included, as well as problems that consumers and producers experience with dyed or printed fabrics. The discussion of ink-jet printing has been updated to reflect the tremendous changes occurring in th