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Chapter One
1
They stroll on Sundays down Dronningens Street,
passing the bank and the small island shops
quiet as drawings, keeping from the heat
through Danish arches until, the street stops
at the blue, gusting harbour, where like commas
in a shop ledger gulls tick the lined waves.
Sea-light on the cod barrels writes: St. Thomas ,
the salt breeze brings the sound of Mission slaves
chanting deliverance from all their sins
in tidal couplets of lament and answer,
the horizon underlines their origins--
Pissarros from the ghetto of Braganza
who fled the white hoods of the Inquisition
for the bay's whitecaps, for the folding cross
of a white herring gull over the Mission
droning its passages from Exodus.
Before the family warehouse, near the Customs,
his uncle jerks the locks, rattling their chains,
and lifts his beard to where morning comes
across wide water to the Gentile mountains.
Out of the cobalt bay, her blunt bow cleaving
the rising swell that racing bitterns skip,
the mail boat moans. They feel their bodies leaving
the gliding island, not the blowing ship.
A mongrel follows them, black as its shadow,
nosing their shadows, scuttling when the bells
exult with pardon. Young Camille Pissarro
studies the schooners in their stagnant smells.
He and his starched Sephardic family,
followed from a nervous distance by the hound,
retrace their stroll through Charlotte Amalie
in silence as its Christian bells resound,
sprinkling the cobbles of Dronningens Gade,
the shops whose jalousies in blessing close,
through repetitions of the oval shade
of Danish arches to their high wooden house.
The Synagogue of Blessing and Peace and Loving Deeds
is shut for this Sabbath. The mongrel cowers
through a park's railing. The bells recede.
The afternoon is marked by cedar flowers.
Their street of letters fades, this page of print
in the bleached light of last century recalls
with the sharp memory of a mezzotint:
days of cane carts, the palms' high parasols.
2
My wooden window frames the Sunday street
which a black dog crosses into Woodford Square.
From a stone church, tribal voices repeat
the tidal couplets of lament and prayer.
Behind the rusted lances of a railing
stands the green ribbed fan of a Traveller's Tree;
an iron gate, its croton hedge availing
itself of every hue, screeches on entry.
Walk down the path, enter the yawning stone,
its walls as bare as any synagogue
of painted images. The black congregation
frown in the sun at the sepulchral dog.
There was a shul in old-time Port of Spain,
but where its site precisely was is lost
in the sunlit net of maps whose lanes contain
a spectral faith, white as the mongrel's ghost.
Stiller the palms on Sunday, fiercer the grass,
blacker the shade under the boiling trees,
sharper the shadows, quieter the grace
of afternoon, the city's emptiness.
And over the low hills there is the haze
of heat and a smell of rain in the noise
of trees lightly thrashing where one drop has
singed the scorched asphalt as more petals rise.
A silent city, blest with emptiness
like an engraving. Ornate fretwork eaves,
and the heat rising front the pitch in wires,
from empty back yards with calm breadfruit leaves,
their walls plastered with silence, the same streets
with the same sharp shadows, laced verandahs closed
in torpor, until afternoon repeats
the long light with its croton-coloured crowds
in the Savannah, not the Tuileries, but
still the Rock Gardens' brush-point cypresses
like a Pissarro canvas, past the shut
gate of the President's Palace, flecked dresses
with gull cries, white flowers and cricketers,
coconut carts, a frilled child with the hoop
of the last century, and, just as it was
in Charlotte Amalie, a slowly creaking sloop.
Laventille's speckled roofs, just as it was
in Cazabon's day, the great Savannah cedars,
the silent lanes at sunrise, parked cars
quiet at their culverts, trainers, owners, breeders
before they moved the paddocks, the low roofs
under the low hills, the sun-sleeved Savannah
under the elegance of grass-muffled hooves,
the cantering snort, the necks reined in; a
joy that was all smell, fresh dung; the jokes
of the Indian grooms, that civilising
culture of horses, the fin de siècle spokes
of trotting carriages, and egrets rising,
as across olive hills a flock of pigeons,
keeping its wide ellipse over dark trees
to the Five Islands, soundlessly joins
its white flecks to the sails on quiet seas.
The white line of chalk birds draws on an Asia
of white-lime walls, prayer flags, and minarets,
blackbirds bring Guinea to thorns of acacia,
and in the saffron of Tiepolo sunsets,
the turbulent paradise of bright rotundas
over aisles of cane, and censer-carried mists,
then, blazing from the ridges of Maracas--
the croton hues of the Impressionists.
3
On my first trip to the Modern I turned a corner,
rooted before the ridged linen of a Cézanne.
A still life. I thought how clean his brushes were!
Across that distance light was my first lesson.
I remember stairs in couplets. The Metropolitan's
marble authority, I remember being
stunned as I studied the exact expanse
of a Renaissance feast, the art of seeing.
Then I caught a slash of pink on the inner thigh
of a white hound entering the cave of a table,
so exact in its lucency at The Feast of Levi ,
I felt my heart halt. Nothing, not the babble
of the unheard roar that rose from the rich
pearl-lights embroidered on ballooning sleeves,
sharp beards, and gaping goblets, matched the bitch
nosing a forest of hose. So a miracle leaves
its frame, and one epiphanic detail
illuminates an entire epoch:
a medal by Holbein, a Vermeer earring, every scale
of a walking mackerel by Bosch, their sacred shock.
Between me and Venice the thigh of a hound;
my awe of the ordinary, because even as I write,
paused on a step of this couplet, I have never found
its image again, a hound in astounding light.
Everything blurs. Even its painter. Veronese
or Tiepolo in a turmoil of gesturing flesh,
drapery, columns, arches, a crowded terrace,
a balustrade with leaning figures. In the mesh
of Venetian light on its pillared arches
Paolo Veronese's Feast in the House of Levi
opens on a soundless page, but no shaft catches
my memory: one stroke for a dog's thigh!
4
But isn't that the exact perspective of loss,
that the loved one's features blur, in dimming detail,
the smile with its dimpled corners, her teasing voice
rasping with affection, as Time draws its veil,
until all you remember are her young knees
gleaming from an olive dress, her way of walking,
as if on a page of self-arranging trees,
hair a gold knot, rose petals silently talking?
I catch an emerald sleeve, light knits her hair,
in a garland of sculpted braids, her burnt cheeks;
catch her sweet breath, be the blest one near her
at that Lucullan table, lean when she speaks,
as clouds of centuries pass over the brilliant ground
of the fresco's meats and linen, while her wrist
in my forced memory caresses an arched hound,
as all its figures melt in the fresco's mist.
Copyright © 2000 Derek Walcott. All rights reserved.