Trekking in Ladakh, 3rd India Trekking Guides

by Loram, Charlie; Manthorpe, Jim

• ISBN13: 9781873756751
• ISBN10: 1873756755
• Edition: 3rd
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2004-11-01
• Publisher: Trail Blazer Pubns

Summary

This is the fully revised third edition of Charlie Loram's practical guide to low-impact trekking in this high altitude region of northwest India. The spectacular natural landscape of immense mountains, wild deserts and deep gorges, combined with a thriving Tibetan-Buddhist culture makes Ladakh (Little Tibet) one of the most fascinating destinations in the Himalaya.

Author Biography

Charlie Loram has never found being indoors easy. After breaking in his boots on the fells and crags of Snowdonia, northern England and the Scottish Highlands his nomadic tendencies took him to the Himalaya. For five years he wandered the high trails as guidebook writer, wilderness guide and modern-day pilgrim. His experiences there continue to inspire his attempts at living with simplicity and sustainability at home on Dartmoor, England. He is the author of the West Highland Way, also from Trailblazer and now works as series editor for their expanding hiking series.

Jim Manthorpe updated this third edition. A dedicated hiker with wide experience of trekking in both Europe and Asia, he taught English in Barcelona for three years before moving back to London where he works in Stanfords, the London travel bookshop. He is the author of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, also from Trailblazer.

Table of Contents

Introduction
Planning Your Trip
What is trekking?	p. 9
With a group or on your own?
Organising the trek yourself	p. 10
Guided trekking groups	p. 11
Trekking agencies	p. 11
UK	p. 14
Continental Europe	p. 15
USA	p. 16
Canada	p. 16
Australia	p. 16
New Zealand	p. 16
Getting to India
Visas	p. 17
By air	p. 18
Overland	p. 19
Budgeting
Costs in towns	p. 19
Independent trekking costs	p. 20
Overall budget	p. 20
When to go and for how long
Seasons	p. 20
Temperatures and rainfall	p. 21
How long do you need?	p. 22
Route options
Planning your route	p. 23
Route planning map	p. 24
Central Ladakh	p. 26
Nubra	p. 31
Pangong	p. 34
Rupshu	p. 34
Zanskar	p. 36
Western Ladakh	p. 41
Mountaineering in Ladakh	p. 42
What to take
Keep it light	p. 44
Buying gear	p. 44
How to carry it	p. 44
Footwear	p. 45
Clothes	p. 46
Sleeping bag	p. 48
Medical kit	p. 49
Photographic equipment	p. 51
Camping gear	p. 51
Finding out more: books	p. 53
Maps	p. 55
Tourist organisations	p. 56
Web sites	p. 57
Health precautions and inoculations
Pre-trek preparations	p. 58
Inoculations	p. 59
Travel/health insurance	p. 60
India
Facts about the country
Geographical background	p. 61
Climate	p. 61
Historical outline	p. 61
Religion	p. 63
Practical information for the visitor
Visas	p. 66
Trekking restrictions	p. 66
Local transport	p. 67
Language	p. 69
Time	p. 70
Money	p. 70
Electricity	p. 71
Holidays and festivals	p. 72
Post and telecommunications	p. 74
The media	p. 74
Food	p. 75
Drink	p. 76
Things to buy	p. 77
Security	p. 78
Delhi, Manali, Keylong
Delhi to Leh--travel options	p. 79
Map	p. 80
Delhi
History	p. 81
International arrival and departure	p. 82
Orientation	p. 84
Where to stay	p. 84
Where to eat	p. 90
Services	p. 90
What to see	p. 92
Getting to Ladakh	p. 95
Manali
Orientation	p. 97
Where to stay	p. 97
Where to eat	p. 100
Moving on	p. 100
Keylong
What to see	p. 103
Organising your trek	p. 103
Moving on	p. 103
Ladakh
Facts about the region
Geographical background	p. 104
Climate	p. 106
Historical outline	p. 106
Economy	p. 112
Education	p. 115
The people	p. 115
Religion	p. 116
Leh and Beyond
Leh
History	p. 119
Arrival	p. 119
Orientation	p. 120
Local transport	p. 120
Where to stay	p. 121
Where to eat	p. 127
Services	p. 130
Entertainment	p. 135
What to see	p. 136
Moving on	p. 137
Places of interest beyond Leh
West of Leh	p. 140
Zanskar	p. 144
South-east of Leh	p. 145
Protected areas	p. 149
Minimum Impact Trekking
Cultural impact	p. 156
Environmental impact	p. 159
Economic impact	p. 163
Organising your trek
Pony-men and pack animals	p. 165
Local equipment	p. 168
Food for trekking	p. 169
Camping	p. 172
Preparing yourself	p. 173
Trail Guide and Maps
Using this guide
Route descriptions	p. 174
Route maps	p. 175
Markha Valley trek
Getting to the start	p. 176
Stok to Rumbak (alternative start)	p. 176
Spituk to Jingchan	p. 176
Jingchan to Yurutse	p. 178
Yurutse to Shingo	p. 179
Shingo to Skiu	p. 182
Skiu to Markha	p. 182
Markha to Tahungste	p. 185
Tahungste to Chukirmo	p. 186
Chukirmo to Karu	p. 192
Stok to Spituk via the Stok La
Stok to Stok La	p. 193
Stok La to Spituk	p. 193
Likir to Temisgam
Getting to the start	p. 193
Likir to Yangtang	p. 193
Yangtang to Hemis-Shukpachu	p. 196
Hemis-Shukpachu to Temisgam	p. 196
Lamayuru to Alchi
Getting to the start	p. 199
Lamayuru	p. 199
Lamayuru to Wanla	p. 200
Wanla to Hinju	p. 200
Hinju to Sumdah-Chenmo	p. 203
Sumdah-Chenmo to Sumdah-Choon	p. 204
Sumdah-Choon to Alchi	p. 206
Sumdah-Chenmo to the Markha Valley
Sumdah-Chenmo to Chiling	p. 209
Across Karnak
Getting to the start	p. 210
Karu to the Zalung Karpo La	p. 210
Zalung Karpo La to Sorra	p. 213
Sorra to Dat	p. 213
Dat to the Yar La	p. 215
Yar La to Pogmar	p. 216
Pogmar to Pang	p. 220
Leh to Nubra
Getting to the start	p. 221
Leh to Sabu	p. 221
Sabu Phu to Digar La	p. 222
Digar La to Chumik Yogma	p. 224
Chumik Yogma to Shyok Valley	p. 224
Along the Shyok Valley to Rong	p. 225
Across Zanskar
Getting to the start	p. 230
Darcha to Zangskar Sumdo	p. 230
Zangskar Sumdo to Shingo La	p. 232
Shingo La to Kargyak	p. 235
Kargyak to Purne	p. 239
Purne to Padum	p. 241
Padum to Parfi La	p. 247
Parfi La to Lingshed	p. 253
Lingshed to Potoksur	p. 255
Potoksur to Phanji La	p. 260
Wild treks in Zanskar
Zangla to the Markha Valley via the Jumlam	p. 264
Thongde to Phuktal to Padum	p. 264
Phuktal to Leh-Manali road via Tsarap River	p. 264
Zanskar's southern passes	p. 265
Padum to Rangdum via Dibling	p. 265
Rangdum to Heniskot, Lamayuru or Khalsi	p. 265
Stok Kangri ascent
Getting to the start	p. 266
Stok to the base camps	p. 266
Advanced base camp to summit	p. 268
Appendices
Indian embassies	p. 269
Itineraries	p. 270
Health and mountain safety	p. 271
Flora and fauna	p. 280
Ladakhi words and phrases	p. 282
Glossary	p. 285
Table of Contents provided by Syndetics. All Rights Reserved.

Excerpts

Sandwiched between the vast ranges of the Karakoram and the Himalaya in the far north of India, Ladakh is the highest, most remote and least populated region in the whole country. The name is derived from Ladags which means 'the land of high passes'. Its corrugated, arid landscape is often described as a mountain desert which does not do justice to the inherent beauty of its chaotic ridges, twisted and exposed geological strata, snow-shrouded peaks, dark gorges and wide valleys. The eye is relieved from this relentless desolation by the vibrant green oases of the villages, where the resourceful inhabitants make up for the almost non-existent rain by channeling glacial melt water across miles of precipitous mountainside to irrigate their barley fields and willow groves. It is a land of climatic extremes: fiercely hot days are followed by freezing nights just as the brief summer is followed by a long ice-bound winter, which completely isolates much of the region from the rest of the world for seven to eight months every year.

Until recently, Western visitors to Ladakh were rare. Its inaccessibility and hostile landscape initially kept them away and then, just when Ladakh's communications were improving, the Indian government imposed a ban on foreign tourists because of Ladakh's strategic position near the borders with Pakistan and China. Since this ban was raised in the 1970s Ladakh has become a popular destination for aficionados of wild mountain scenery and those interested in a unique culture. As much of the region is accessible only on foot, trekking is the ideal way to explore this fascinating land.

At various times in the past, Ladakh has been politically part of western Tibet and this influence is still prominent today throughout most of the region. Indeed it is said that Ladakh is a more accurate representation of Tibet before the Chinese invasion than Tibet itself. The Ladakhi people are principally of Tibetan origin and Tibetan Buddhism is still practiced here, as it has been for hundreds of years, alongside a significant population of Muslims. Gompas, or monasteries, overlook the valleys from their solitary positions on top of craggy hills and these religious institutions still play an active role in all Ladakhi life. Even deep in the mountains you are reminded that this is mainly a Buddhist culture as you walk past mani walls and chortens at the entrance of every village, or over high passes where tattered prayer flags flutter from the summit cairn.

Trekking in Ladakh is very different from hiking in the West as the trails are the lifeline between villages. It's not unusual to find yourself sharing the trail with a lama on his way to a remote gompa, or a shepherd making his way up to a high pasture and it is this close interaction with the local people that makes it such an enriching experience. However, unlike the busy teahouse trails in Nepal, where you can guarantee food and shelter every day, in Ladakh you need to be totally self-sufficient. Villages are often several days apart and these subsistence communities grow only enough food to feed themselves. The best way to carry your camping equipment and food is to trek with a local who will bring along one or two packhorses and will be only too happy to act as your guide and companion. All the necessary arrangements can be made both cheaply and easily in Leh, the atmospheric capital of Ladakh.

A trek is a rejuvenating experience. Day by day, mile-by-mile, you become leaner and fitter, slowly peeling away the constraints of modern life. Time for once is on your side and you have the privileged opportunity to immerse yourself in 'the naked mountains and the blessed sunshine and the merry rosy people' (The Himalayan Letters of Gypsy Davy and Lady Ba by Robert and Katherine Barrett). The trekking industry is still young here and, at present, is free from rules and regulations. Each trekker must therefore accept his or her individual responsibility for ensuring that the magic of what the Barretts called these 'high quiet places' is never lost.

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Excerpted from Ladakh by Charlie Loram, Jim Manthorpe
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.