East of Paris

David Bouley, universally praised as one of the most important chefs cooking today, shares his recipes from Austria and other regions of the Danube in this stunning, beautifully illustrated, one-of-a-kind cookbook. East of Paris embraces Austrian culture, lifestyle, and -- above all else -- the new Austrian cuisine, as interpreted by the renowned David Bouley. Praised as one of the top chefs in the world, Bouley, in collaboration with executive chef Mario Lohninger, has adapted and lightened Austrian cuisine, introducing innovative cooking techniques to indigenous ingredients and classic regional dishes. This cuisine is truly unique, capturing the peak flavor in its ingredients, combining classic techniques and influences from around the world, and translating them into a culinary language with an Austrian gestalt. All of the recipes here have been prepared for the home cook; some are from Bouley and Lohninger's own repertoire, and some are reinvented traditional dishes that have been made in Austrian homes for generations. Featuring extraordinary photographs by Thomas Schauer, East of Paris introduces readers to a refined cuisine that draws on Austrian cooking, is prepared with the highest standards, and goes well beyond the culinary canon.

Acknowledgments

v

Introduction

2

(5)

David Bouley

Introduction

7

(2)

Mario Lohninger

Along the Danube: A Brief History of Austrian Cuisine

9

(1)

Fall

10

(58)

Winter

68

(58)

Spring

126

(48)

Summer

174

(48)

Signature Dishes

222

(64)

Traditional Sweets and Coffeehouse Favorites

286

(40)

Pantry

326

(10)

Wine Notes

336

(1)

Sources

337

(1)

Index

338

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East of Paris
The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube

Beet Salad

With Caraway and Walnut Oil

Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer or side dish

1 pound red BABY BEETS, trimmed
1 tablespoon CANOLA OIL
2 sprigs FRESH THYME
1 BAY LEAF, preferably fresh
Fine SEA SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER
1 teaspoon CARAWAY SEEDS
1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons SUGAR, or to taste
6 tablespoons WALNUT OIL
MICRO CRESS, mâche, or watercress leaves, for garnish
Chopped WALNUTS, for garnish

NOTES FROM THE KITCHEN The caraway here is a nice contrast to the beet's sweetness, as is the walnut oil, which has a slightly bitter note. This is a versatile salad that will go with practically anything as a side dish: meat, fish, pasta, or potatoes. For a substantial first course, you can add cheese: a goat cheese, fresh or aged, a nice granular aged Cheddar or Parmigiano-Reggiano, or even a blue cheese.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. In an ovenproof dish, toss the beets with the canola oil, thyme, bay leaf, and salt and pepper. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and roast until the beets are tender and cooked through,about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Meanwhile, make the dressing. Place 1 cup of water in a saucepan with the caraway seeds and bring to a boil. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the Champagne vinegar and sugar. Whisk in the walnut oil and seasonwith salt and pepper.

When the beets are cool enough to handle, slip off their skins andplace them in a bowl. Pour the dressing over them and let marinate for atleast 1 hour. Serve garnished with the cress and walnuts.

DAVID BOULEY A lot of people think of beets as something that they had when they were kids that was pickled or served out of a can. And a lot of people don't understand that a good beet straight from the garden doesn't taste anything like that. A fresh beet, still with its greens attached, is tender and sweet, almost more like a fruit than a vegetable. It's not woody and tough or dry like a potato. It's beautiful.

Beets are one of my favorite things, and I can say that I've loved them since I was seven or eight, when I first realized what vegetables were supposed to taste like. I was on a farm helping out during the harvest, which is what my family did in Connecticut every fall. After gathering the produce there was a big cookout, and all the root vegetables were wrapped in aluminum foil and roasted on an open fire. The beets got intensely sweet and I thought they were the best vegetables I'd ever had.

This recipe shows off how simple and delicious a garden-fresh beet can be, so it's important to use baby beets that have been harvested within a few days of cooking.

Yellowtail

With Flat-Leaf Spinach Puree, Austrian Crescent Potatoes, Osetra Caviar, and Vodka Sauce

SPINACH PUREE

3 tablespoons UNSALTED BUTTER
3 SHALLOTS, diced
1 teaspoon FINE SEA SALT
2 large GARLIC CLOVES, minced
1/2 cup HEAVY CREAM
1 sprig FRESH THYME
3/4 cup VEGETABLE STOCK
12 ounces (1 bunch) flat-leaf SPINACH, cleaned, stems removed to yield 6 ounces of leaves, or use 6 ounces baby spinach
Freshly ground WHITE PEPPER
CAYENNE PEPPER
FRESHLY GRATED NUTMEG

YELLOWTAIL

4 cups CANOLA OIL
8 GARLIC CLOVES, unpeeled
1 sprig FRESH THYME
1 BAY LEAF, preferably fresh
1 pound YELLOWTAIL TUNA FILLET, cut crosswise into 8 equal slices (about 2 ounces each)
FINE SEA SALT and freshly ground WHITE PEPPER

Poaching fish slowly and gently in oil firms and tightens the flesh without drying it. It's a favorite technique that David learned in Europe over a decade ago and has been perfecting ever since. In this recipe the buttery fish is served rather simply, with potato salad and a spinach puree that will be by far the best creamed spinach you've ever had. The four-star opulence comes from the vodka-caviar sauce, which can be as decadent as you like, depending upon how much and what kind of caviar you use. David likes to use Belvedere vodka here, but any premium brand will work.

NOTES FROM THE KITCHEN You can skip the potato salad and serve this dish with boiled or steamed potatoes.

To prepare the spinach puree, in a wide saucepan or high-sided sauté pan over medium high heat, melt the butter. Let the butter cook until the milk solids fall to the bottom and turn nut brown. Add the shallots and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes, until the shallots begin to soften. Add the garlic and continue to cook until the garlic and shallots are soft and cooked through, 2 minutes more.

Add the cream and thyme to the pan and bring the liquid to a boil. Simmer until reduced by about one-third, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the vegetable stock and let the liquid return to a boil. Add the spinach to the cream-shallot mixture. Cook gently, stirring and tossing, until the spinach is wilted and tender, about 2 minutes.

Remove the thyme. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the spinach to the bowl of a blender or food processor, reserving 1/2 cup of the liquid from the spinach. Puree the spinach and season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and nutmeg to taste. If necessary, add some of the reserved cooking liquid so the puree is just loose enough to pour. Keep warm.East of Paris
The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube. Copyright © by David Bouley. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.

Excerpted from East of Paris: The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube by David Bouley, Melissa Clark, Mario Lohninger
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.