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The descent into Italy begins gently but steepens as the train drops down through two tunnels toAlp Grüm, another popular place to break the journey. The main reason to do so is the viewing point over the Palü Glacier and down Val Poschiavo. The station has a restaurant and adjacent terrace from which the view can be savored while you have lunch.
The descent toPoschiavois one of the greatest sections of railway in the world. Without rack, trains drop down at the astonishingly steep ruling gradient of 1 in 14, negotiating curves so severe and numerous that the direct distance between the two points is doubled by rail. In many places the railway follows the route of an old Roman road. The experience is, of course, made exceptional by the views, though the elbows of the curves are often in tunnels and trees cover the slopes in a landscape very different from the barrenness of the pass. With flanges squealing on the curves, the train reaches a short flat section throughCavaglia. The most sinuous part of the descent followsCadera, the line resembling a child’s fantasy as it twists through tunnels and crosses numerous watercourses by viaduct. Italian- influenced buildings are now in evidence and the linguistic divide is crossed. At
Ospizio Bernina you may see the station official rush in to get his binoculars to see a rare bird; here you are more likely to see hunting rifles.